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Recent content by Von Devilish
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I already keep several oversized arowana and osphronemus in a 600 gallon, a few hundred africans in a 220 gallon and about 100 oddballs in a 350
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But, but adding stronger filtration and equipment, ie: denitrifying filter, uv sterilizer, oversized trickle filter etc reduce the amount of labor?
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I have received my custom 30 inch wide, 36 inch tall and 12 inch from front to back aquarium. (Approx 56.025 gallons)
I want to set it up for Discus, but I have NO experience in keeping discus outside of work (in a MARS unit, I work at a LFS, and even then we didnt have much control on water...
Not very hard. The unit in question is a HOB model that can be run with the addition of a small pump, (i only use rio brand head/pumps)
With a sand filter, it carries the biological load, so you can make the tank much more stable.
I would also recommend finding a small sand filter. I use the v2 1500 on every tank i own thats freshwater. American Aquarium Products is where i ordered all of mine from.
Google : fluidized Sand Bed Filter and look for the aforementioned company. It will stabilize your nitrates at 0...
If its a Seachem product, its worth the money. I have a 220, a 350 in fresh and a 1500 reef. I try to stay chemical free in my freshwater tanks but Prime is a must for freshwater, especially if you dont have access to R O water at a lfs or grocery store.
You can save yourself most of these...
Do not do as isabella says. Constant water changes will only cause the tank to mini cycle and spike higher. Treat your water with Prime, wait 48 hours and then do a 30% water change. Wait 48 hours and then test water to check levels.
If you are super concerned find a place that sells Fritzime...
So I have been battling this ?calcifing algae? in my stacks for several months. Anyone have a clue if this is actually algae, and how best to treat other than using a razor blade.