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ah yeah, forgot about the lfs water, duh. Well, in any case, hopefully with only the 5g tank having open air above it (the sump/fuge will have a lid on it,) the evaporation rate will be low and she wont have to add more than a gallon or two a week.

Eh... unlikely something ate it. Unless you have something that likes to chow down on coral, which... well you shouldnt put coral in a tank with fish that eat coral... but I assume you wouldnt do something silly like that. Most likely it didnt like its current position, released itself and...

Hello all. Looking to upgrade my girlfriend's FOWLR setup to a reef deal for christmas. Not talking acro or clams here... mushrooms, leather, maybe brain coral at the most. Any of the lower-light corals. She currently has a 5 gallon tank with a 20w 50/50 PC bulb on it. I'm basically mirroring...

Question: What would the PAR percentage increase be going from 130watt PC system to a 96watt T5 HO system? Are we talking like... 10%? 50%? -25%? What about a 144watt T5 HO system?

Ok, yes I see from googling around this 'PAR value' thing. Interesting considering I the last time I did any sort of intense research for lighting was only about two years ago. So I suppose a 6x24 T5 system would do nicely? Thats 144w total.

for example... Solar T-5 Aquarium Hood 30" 6x24 Watts - eBay (item 360192870821 end time Oct-25-09 18:49:33 PDT) but cheaper. I would think I should be able to find a similar system that doesnt cost $100 more than a HQI system lol while we're on the subject, just to confirm, T5 is a much...

Well, ok heres my issue: I dont think my PC lighting is making the higher-light requirement coral/clam happy. The coral themselves seem to be ok, but the color seems to become more blah over time from when I got them home from the store. My old tank, which had the 1030w MH system on it (running...

You guys say 'determined' and 'dead set' on MH, as if it were a bad thing. Why is this?

Dont think the link to that first one worked... and the second one, I would get that but a) I'd want two, so $170x2=too much $$ and b) I still would like some actinic lighting in there. I realize I can nuke everything with too much light but at what point is too much? I mean, there are reefs in...

now that im looking at it, Im really leaning toward the 150w hqi system. thats just shy of 10wpg and that will make everything very happy I think. $235 shipped.... seems to be a good price too

30x12x12 I believe. I realize the wattage is overkill, but it become an issue of cost. For some reason, a 150w 30" system is minimum $300 but a 24" 380w system is $180. I dont really care about name brands, and I think thats why... there are a lot more off brand people making 24" systems with...

Just in case anyone wants to take a look, heres some link to the different light systems 250watt system http://cgi.ebay.com/24-Metal-Halide-Aquarium-Reef-Nano-Light-250W-LED-2ft_W0QQitemZ110444848628QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b706a5f4 380watt system 24" Metal Halide...

Hey folks. Before my question, let me explain my situation: I want to upgrade my lighting system. Ive got a 20g long (and about double that in filtration volume) and I have a PC 130w lighting system on it (6.5wpg) and I want to do clams and sps. I have experimented and put a birds nest frag...

Come to think of it, I dont know what type of fuel the heater uses. But yeah, it hasn't been on. Just AC AC AC lol. Did my check about 3 hours after the lights were on, after having just cracked the window about an inch and having the new green house plants, and pH was 8.0 which was...

If you dont have a glass hood and you have decent aeration, try opening a window. I know it sounds totally random, but your house might have too high co2 making your pH drop. It was/is my problem. Also, before you try a PWC, check your alkalinity. If its low, you need to raise it to proper...

So heres the latest... I did the drip kalk thing for a few days. My original feeling that the pH issue was solved with adding kalk was kaput as soon as I couldnt add kalk as a dose, but instead had to drip... this caused my pH to return to 7.8. So at that point I was totally stumped. I talked...

hm, didnt know you had to drip kalk, ill have to start doing that. is there any way to know how to start a drip? as in, use a baseline speed (say... start off at 1 drip per minute and inrease as needed?)

kalkwasser did the trick. whatever seems to be the imbalance with my low ph, i whip up a gallon jug of kalk and add like... maybe a quart every few days (at the moment, still testing to see the exact right dosage) but since I started doing that, every time i check (day or night) my pH has been...

just throwing my two cents in here... i used to think like you. At my old place I decided I didnt need to use ro/di water, i tested my water and found it to be very very low on 'trates and 'phates so I said screw it, ill just get tap conditioner and away I went. then I moved and was setting up...

hm, you guys might be right. ill give a 20% change a shot to see what happens. probably wont happen till the weekend though. ps 8.0 was my reading last night. im gonna wait a little while and check my ph after the lights have gotten a change to work, and if the ph doesnt change, according to...

Well first, would pwc really help in this situation? Some factor is lowering my pH, is that going to be fixed by a pwc? I think a pwc is just going to bring my pH back to where it should be, and it will fall again as soon as what ever is causing it has a chance to do its thing. My pH *should* be...

Hahahahaha I wonder if anyone told that kid he was playing in a vomit-dookie-wizz-decay-deadness froth. SO SO SO GROSS ug!