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I have and may still own one of those metal frame stands. Just let me say that I am unimpressed with it. 'Tippy' might be a word I would apply.

I believe most any of the peristaltic pumps will do this since they are positive displacement. Here is one that is not too pricy that says 20 feet: BRS Top Off Doser (50 mL Per Minute) - English Search around and you may do better or find one that looks better to you.

I used a single switch for years on my reef with perfect results. I really comes down to how much surface agitation you have.

I have been looking at this in the past week, and although I don't think I am going to bother, the Tunze Osmolator replacement pump is about the only one around with decent lift short of and expensive dosing pump. Float switches are common on ebay and elsewhere. So a little power supply, and...

Yep, I stand corrected. Musta' snorted some of that hair algae I was cleaning out this morning.

A lot of cichlid keepers like to use around 10x filtration if you are gonna keep it heavily stocked to reduce aggression. By 10x, it means a total filter(s) flow ratings of 550 gallons. Sound extreme I know but there it is. Less filter equals more frequent water changes.

Eh. I don't think I would. At least not until you see no ammonia or nitrites for a week. A handful or two of gravel from the 10 will give you some bacteria in the new tank and wouldn't disturb much.

We are taking about doing fishless cycle in the empty 29 right? The consensus is that the Ace stuff is fine, and if it has surfactants, it has so little that there is no harm. You are not going to need much to hit 4ppm. Try 1 teaspoon (not tablespoon), wait 30 minutes and test. Adjust based...

Fish don't urinate, instead they excrete their liquid waste as ammonia through their gills. Also, decaying organic matter is broken down by other bacteria to make ammonia. One group of 'beneficial bacteria' in the tank and filter convert ammonia to nitrites. So fish>ammonia>nitrites. And...

'Nitrate - 80 ppm' < I'd hit this at least once more now to bring it to 40. Then maybe again before too long. Keep watching the ammonia and nitrites.. Those are the really deadly ones.

Its all about surface area. So you'll get some jump on it without the filter. I don't know that I would hit it with 4ppm, might dose something lower.

Well, I guess I misinterpreted this: Didn't mean to make you defensive, just speculating on what is going on.

Frankie say: Relax. Nitrates are normal and means the biofilter is working. Nitrate toxicity in fish is widely debated, but for context, aquaculture operations sometimes run with nitrate levels in the hundreds. Read this Nitrate - The Free Freshwater and Saltwater Aquarium Encyclopedia Anyone...

Well, that isn't the problem. Conditioners work nearly instantly if there is some circulation. Even a swish with your hand would do it. Re-reading this all, it seems like the biofilter was possibly disrupted when you did that clean up a couple weeks back. Which implies that you are just a few...

Copper test kits are available for sure. Hobbyist kits for other heavy metals, I am not sure. Maybe. The Salt water guys may know. Commercial test kits are certainly available, but very expensive. You can look at Water Quality Testing Products - Instruments, Test Kits, Reagents, Test Strips...

If you are concerned about leeching in the hot water lines, then use cold and heat it. But not to boiling. Boiling will remove carbonates by gassing it off as CO2. This is a reduction in the Alkalinity (Carbonate or Temporary Hardness.). And that could lead to potential pH stability issues...

Well, if there are heavy metals in the water, boiling will not get rid of them.

It is possible, yes. Probable, no. Base material used for conversion to carbon is sometimes 'activated' with phosphoric acid. If you buy quality brands made for aquarium use, I think this very unlikely. Also the amount leeched would be extremely small. Like most things that go into an...

Maybe. Some of them have have surfactants, dyes, soaps, or perfumes. Those are things you don't want in the tank. The very best case is if it lists ingredients on the bottle. It should say Ammonium Hydroxide and nothing else.

I think you are focusing the wrong direction. I'd be looking at heavy metals or copper or some such. Because the only problem in the tank seems to be the shrimp. Maybe you've got a contaminated batch of fert or something. I have no proof or special knowledge of any kind. That just my thoughts...

Bottled ammonia is Ammonium Hydroxide and water. Nothing more unless you buy the wrong stuff as is often discussed here, and yes THAT could be an issue. But its not. Because you used the right stuff.

Yeah, the product may well work, just no need for it unless you simply can't stand the wait for fishless cycle. But you tested and think your ready to go so, it is pointless. Ammonia is ammonia is ammonia. Regardless of the source, be it bottle or fish or rotting organic matter.

Many people use egg crate light diffuser panels from Lowes or Home Depot like this: Redirect Notice to help distribute the weight and keep the rocks from direct contact with the glass. Yes the rocks are a bit heavier then the water they are displacing, but not by all that much.

Sounds like the man did his job. He sold you something.

This is what is in it from the MSDS: Sodium Thiosulfate < 25% This is the chemical most commonly used to convert ammonia to ammonium and detoxify. Organic Colloids < 5% These are likely to collect small particles and clear the water. These might have the effect you want, but since not more...