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I have a bunch of those. They are great scavengers and help keep detritus under control.

Well, not many common species get that big, and those that do have a potential to be predatory in the absence of acceptable food. Don't get me wrong, I'd say probably 99.99% of the worms we see are not only harmless, but beneficial. But a six inch long, half inch wide worm may decide that soft...

A few species of worm can potentially cause problems. Hermodice carunculata can eat corals, especially gorgonians and thin branching sps corals. They may nibble at zoas as well. But all of this is dependent on the worm reaching a size that few reach in aquariums. Beyond that, they seem to live...

Though a couple of polychaete worms have "fireworm" in their name (such as the Caribbean bearded fireworm), the terms fireworm and bristleworm are generally interchangeable. As already stated, a eunicid worm could be a problem, but really only if it gets big. I had a Caribbean bearded worm in my...

My experience is that crabs in a reef are bad news. I'd try to catch him. Do you have a sump he can live in?

Got so,e frags shipped in today. FedEx temporarily lost them, so they got cold. Also jostled enough to break the montipora into little pieces. Lost the acropora turaki, but everything else survived. Acropora red planet Stylophora pistillata Three colors of montipora capricornis

As a rule, Mr_X knows his stuff.

Well, they are crabs. I maintain (somewhat controversially) that there is no such thing as a 100% reef safe crab. You don't build a Sherman tank and call it a teddy bear. Lol

I also didn't have any hermits at the time.

I never saw anything munch mine, but all experiences will be different. Mine got overgrown by algae. Glad that's been fixed since then.

Requirements are similar to zoas, so low (depending on light of course), good flow, and they'll spread. In my experience they are not quite as prolific as zoas, but back then my tank was in poor shape.

I guess the move stressed him more than I thought! My green BTA is doing fantastic, so I'm willing to wager these two will do fine once try recover.

A local reefer gave me a red bubble tip anemone last Thursday. It promptly moved under a rock, into a cave, and hid. To be expected, of course. But it stayed there, and is still there. I was starting to get worried, but today, while peering around the back, I was quote startled to see a smaller...

Well, definitely not colonial hydroids, but maybe the stringy type. Again, difficult to tell without a much closer picture. If it's a hydroid then it's bad. If it's a worm, it's probably good.

Any dimmable unit will be good for controlling with a timer, but to control intensity via computer, you'll need a higher end system.

From another thread.

Best response ever to a polyp identification question!

So, these worms are difficult to identify largely because of size. You'd need a macro lens to give us a clear enough shot to be 100% sure. That being said, the vast majority of worms you'll see in a reef tank are beneficial scavengers that work hard so you don't have to. Bristle worms...

Dimmable dimmable dimmable! Lol I recently upgraded from dual T5HO to LED and have been running them at 25% white/35% blue because any higher and my soft corals looked shriveled. One thing to remember with LEDs is that they penetrate water better than fluorescent so more of the light output is...

A lot of people think bristle worms are bad and get wrasses to eat them. It's an old misconception, but it persists today. Bristleworms are good, with very few exceptions.

The only things that seem unhappy with the new lights are the shrooms. Everything else loves them. Hopefully, the shrooms adjust quickly so I can turn the lights up a few notches.

I would argue that no crab is completely reef safe, simply that some people have been very lucky with their individual crabs.

Itty bitty feather duster is what it looks like to me.

Turned the LEDs down a smidgen further. 25% white, 35% blue. The mushrooms didn't look very happy. I've been waiting to post a review of the lights until I'd had them for a couple weeks. Found the one downside so far. Can't turn then down below 25% or they just turn off. Still, I'm very happy...

There are a couple ways it can be easier to do water changes with a sump. First, when dumping new water in, you don't need to worry about blowing sand all over the display tank. Also, if it's not the exact same temperature, you won't end up shocking your livestock, as the colder water will mix...