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It would not be wise to just buffer without taking into consideration other connected factors like calcium. Again the link already provided: An Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System And for an understanding: A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between...

I keep cleaner wrasses ONLY from Sri Lanka. I have no trouble with the cleaners from this source eating and surviving, and by the time I sell them to other hobbyists, they are eating multiple foods, like frozen brine, mysis, blood worms and also, spirulina flake food. If I have trouble getting...

I've never supplemented iodine to any of my ten tanks in the 13 yrs I've been in the hobby, and my anemones have not suffered at all. While I don't feed my anemones, (they get enough from my feeding the fish) Dr Ron Shimek said to feed anemones small pieces as the effort to consume larger...

One of many articles that can help. UNDERSTANDING THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CALCIUM, ALKALINITY MAGNESIUM AND pH As a side note: I don't have any stoney corals in my ten tanks and I have to continually dose limewater (about 22 litres nightly) or two part additive for calcium and alk. If you...

Order some Palaemonetes vulgaris shrimp from LiveBrineShrimp.com, gut load them with spirulina flake food, and then feed them to the lion. They will enjoy the hunt, and, be fed an excellent food in the form of the spirulina the shrimp has eaten. They are basically a salt water glass shrimp...

First, a word of warning! Xenia is a WEED. It can take over a tank quite quickly. Xenia always likes to spread upwards before outwards, and to this date, I've never seen it move downwards. To keep it from getting out of hand, place it on a rock that is higher than it's surroundings, but has...

Maybe it's nitpicking, but an anemone hosts the clownfish, the clownfish doesn't do the hosting, it is the hosted.

That's the bandwagon I'll jump on. In 13 yrs now, with 10 systems on the go, I've never dosed trace elements or iodine in any form. I raise xenia for resale through LFS, and, I have lots of shrimp that have no molting problems. I do test for and add calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium as...

Personally, I would check and see what other reefers and the stores in your area are doing. Some cities like here in London, where we use Great Lakes water and have excellent treatment facilities with chlorine used instead of chloramine, have no dire need to use RO or RO/DI. I have switched...

It's obvious you haven't read the links in my first post. If you had read them you would know that there is no brine shrimp that grow large enough for your clowns not to be able to eat them. You would also find that brine shrimp are not easy to grow in any meaningful numbers. It is very LABOUR...

Unfortunately for your idea, the only "clean up" they'll do is to clean up greenwater in your tank if it ever develops, and only if you remove anything that will eat them first. Brine shrimp are slow moving and the tank currents will blow them around the tank to be caught in anemones and some...

Newly hatched brine (nauplii) should be fed to the tanks as soon as they hatch out because they immediately start to consume the egg sack that is responsible for the nutrient content. It's even better to use decapped cysts and put them straight into the tank as the egg sack is then intact. The...

To control xenia from spreading throughout the tank, you need to put it on a spot that is higher than surrounding areas and have nothing within it's reach. Xenia likes to go upwards towards the lights, and if it can't it will only spread outwards. When it gets to be too much, place reef...

I think you would be best to view the articles at Seahorse.org were so many people have been contributing to the success of keeping and raising seahorses. A lot will depend on the type you are growing, as for some, the brine shrimp nauplii freshly hatched out, are still to large and you will...

All my reef tanks, I try to keep at 1.026 because SOME inverts and corals don't do well at lower levels. I used to keep my fish only tanks a 1.020, but after many years now with no troubles, they are mostly at 1.025-6, but will be dropped again if problems occur. For the most part, ocean...

In 13 years, I've never used anything but 40 w fluorescent lighting over any of my 10 tanks. I have clams, anemones, soft corals, and LPS corals. I do not have sps because they do need more light than my NO's can provide. I have one piece and it exists but doesn't thrive. Soon, I am going to...

FWIW, depending on the temperature of the room the horse tank is in, you probably won't need a heater in it. My seahorse tank has two large floor fans blowing on it to try to keep the temperature down. My basement never gets below 80F because of all my tanks, and I don't want the seahorse...

Definitely no offense taken over any differences of opinion. Personally, I learn many times from investigating others opinions. Speaking of beginners though, would you believe, that in January 94, I switched my first tank from fresh to salt, and the very first inhabitants I purchased were a...

Well, being that it was on Reef Central on his old forum, I don't think that would be possible anymore unless somehow it got saved in the archives. However, if you wish confirmation, you could post on his present forum on Marine Depot. For pictures of my sebae, see my website under "profile".

First of all, I wouldn't have been stating what I did, without knowing it works, and, with Dr Shimek's confirmation then I feel comfortable in making that statement. Dr Shimeck also stated that if the zooxanthellae had been expelled, the anemone will still survive alright if water conditions are...

High lighting requirements for anemones is misleading as they can do just fine under lower lighting. Dr. Shimek stated that lower lighting can be supplimented with extra feeding and not just for the short term. As long as they get enough total nutrient, and as long as water conditions are...

For pics, click on my house with the WWW and when my main page comes up, scroll down to the page "My Clam Page" and click on it. They aren't great pictures but at least you get to see clams under NO lighting, as all of my tanks are lit with NO lighting. (10 tanks so far)

As for colour, the squamosa hasn't changed other than going from about 3" to it's present size of close to 11". One crocea hasn't changed at all colour wise but it never did have fancy patterns in it, just the purple with varigated markings. The other crocea used to have gold markings but now...

Dose this mean that my croceas and squamosa are really Deresa sp. because they have been in my NO fluorescent lit tanks for many years now?

If you have any live rock in the refugium or any part of the system it is connected to, then you will have mysid shrimp and various types of pods already in existence. They will grow in numbers until limited naturally by the tank size and food availability and suitability. Of course, when you...