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I read it as WC-prime-super fast testing, I would assume the prime takes some time to work to a degree to affect the testing so, test quick!

Mine have gravel, they spend a lot of time moving it around ;)

Yes, diatoms are the brown stuff!

Your understanding of PWC is way off. I do 75% a week on my Oscar tank. You could easily , and safely do 50% a DAY if needed. Almost no bacteria lives in the water.

Diatoms are normal in a new tank , they will vanish on their own.

Fluval or eheim and you won't go far wrong! Both are well respected brands.

I think it depends on the type, some corals are aggressive and can sting others, some require different care, so I would imagine with some planning you could have quite a collection in a tank, I'm not sure if you could have too many, if they are the right ones! (I'm an SW newb, so I'm not 100%...

I've never had one but had researched it after seeing them at my LFS. Decided they weren't what I wanted at the time!

They grow to about 6". Need brackish as juveniles then full marine as adults. They like meaty foods that sink. And they need a sand substrate as they like to bury themselves. Nocturnal, so feed at night.

+1 to this. In 20+ years I have never put anything in a tank except water and conditioner. I don't have time for daily PWC so I have always done fish less cycles. I can completely understand a fish in cycle if you have the knowledge, time and test kit! IMO fresh water beats anything artificial.

The benefits of fish less are no danger to any living creature and the ability to get a tank started and have to do a minimum amount of work on it while it cycles. I have always fish less cycled, as I said before that is my preference, but I see no reason why not to chose whichever method suits...

That is such bad advice! Prime does not remove ammo or nitrites, it simply converts ammonia to a state that is harmless to the fish but still available to the BB. You still need to do PWC to remove it! I would also disagree that fish less cycling is outdated and pointless. I have no problem...

Porcupine needs 180g minimum. Picasso and niger 75g. If the other puffer is a striped puffer ( Arothron manliness) then it needs 100g and grows to 12"+! I think you need to do some more research!

No, that comment is silly. Some people, myself included, prefer fishless cycling.

What sort of puffers and triggers?

They were! And obviously as a kid they seemed even bigger! Probably didn't help that they were in a tank that was probably only 30" long, they were probably a good 12"+ ! But it's was a long time ago, wish I ha some pictures!

My Grandfather had a school of 12 ish year old clown loach ! I use to love going to visit as a kid, it was him and his tanks which got me addicted!

Untrue, a little something called convection. Hot water will rise, causing it to be replaced by cooler water, which will then be heated, will then rise and be replaced again by cooler water; rinse and repeat.

The scooter is not a Blenny, it is a Dragonet. You are going to need a large pod population to keep it fed and healthy.

That's your choice! If it were mine, I would be happy to keep using it, my heater is about 4 degrees off from the scale to what it actually heats the water to. If it keeps the temp stable then I personally don't see a problem.

Your heater calibration being off followed by a subsequent failure are almost certainly unrelated.

How often and how much do you feed? Overfeeding can cause a rise in nitrates.

The thermostat isn't defective. The calibration of the visual setting and the actual output is off. If the temp is stable them there is no problem, it's simply cost prohibitive for a manufacturer of any "cheap" product to ensure perfect calibration. This comes from 18 years in engineering and...

The x fish per y gallons " rule " has been proved over and over and over again to be complete Oscar poop.

I didn't know that! Thanks! I was always led to believe everything should be drip acclimated, inverts and fish made sense, never really thought about doing anything different with the corals!