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All glass rimless tanks should have 3/4” plywood under them with the neoprene mat to smooth out any imperfections.

Anyways, here’s what I’ve been working on…

Bribo! I hear you… this forum definitely used to be my go-to for help, chit chat, and other reef keeping banter. It seemed to fizzle out here. While I am slightly involved in other forums, it’s not nearly as social as this was always was. I remember having actual conversations through this...

Ahh yes. The cyclical nature of reefing has struck again.

Hard to tell from pics but if inside looks good and no bubbles you should be ok. I’d email Fluval with pics and see what they say.

Onward! Good luck… [emoji1303]

I’m not a silicone expert but I’m under the impression any air bubbles are not good whatsoever and the seam will fail. May want to consult a custom builder like Glass Cages or SCA Aquariums they’ll likely help answer your question.

How are you cycling the tank? Once nitrites hit 0, then yes, you’ll want a second round of exposure to ammonia to help the bacterial load grow. Just be aware that if you’ve hit 40ppm NO3 after the first round, you’ll like be around 80ppm after the second round. This will require a large, 80-90%...

It is in the saltwater aquaria forum.

You should only be interested in moving an anemone if you are removing it from the tank. As Sniper said damage is a life sentence for them. Anemones will move to where they’re comfortable in the system, and it’s futile to attempt to change their location for them. They’ll just move right back.

For peace of mind I’d replace all the filters and membranes, but that’s me. Does it have an TDS meter, before and/or after the DI resin? If so, depending on those readings, will be a good indication of what filters could be salvaged for the time being. But for the low expense of new filters...

What happened?? BUMMER!!!

Also plenty of DIY frozen food methods on YouTube if you have a blender and a grocery store close!

Can try to put a drop of Garlic Power and let the flakes soak, that could get them enticed a bit. You can also look in the PE Mysis pellets, and the same technique with the Garlic Power if they don’t like those. Pellets in general may be a bigger hit than the flakes. Look up ChromoBoost, or New...

Why do they have to be flakes?

My RJ Enterprises stand for my 48”x18” 75 gallon was north of $800-

They do look like pineapple sponges to me as well. If that is the case, it’s not an infestation of any kind, they’re actually a very helpful filter feeder in your system. It’s a sign of healthy tank. I wouldn’t do anything to remove them or change any course of action. Just let them be, chances...

Just keep in mind when you’re cycling, you really want 2 large cycles of ammonia rising, nitrite rising, ammonia falling, nitrite falling, nitrate rising, and no ammonia or nitrite. This should give you enough exposure to populate enough bacteria to handle the bioload. I’ve never used Dr Tim’s...

I’d invest in a test kit. I like the Red Sea Marine Care, you can test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, plus PH and Alk. Better to trust yourself than someone else in this hobby. That way you can follow your cycling progress along the way.

Couple things- depending on if it was clean dry rock or used to be live rock in a system- If it was clean dry rock, there’s a “chance” the bag of livesand gave you some ammonia. The amount that you tested at, however, unlikely. If the rock was dirty and simply removed from a system and put on a...

The Red Sea Reef Mature has an ammonia source additive. That’s how your tank cycles is from exposure to it. The Bacto Start is what simulates natural waste.

What Dr Tims are you using? That could be the source.

How are you cycling?

What questions did you have, if any?

So correct me if I’m wrong, but seems like you upgraded to something like the InTank fuge and media baskets, and are using the Coralife V2 skimmer? In terms of the goby, if you feed something like mysis, there should be enough bits that will eventually sink to the bottom of the tank. Turn your...