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I have also heard that the machines from supermarkets ect are actually worse than tap water. I heard they are sterilizing the water through evaporation through copper coils and then collect the "purified" water in vats...

The only thing I am having a hard time understanding is that I have been using the same water since the tank was set up. Someone had told me that their water treatment practices are different in summer vs winter, and that they add more chemicals in the summer. My wife is not gonna be happy when...

I will upload pictures as soon as I can. Can't thank everyone enough for their help. I wanna keep everyone posted so this doesn't happen to anyone else. It sucks to throw all this money down the drain! I am def switching to rodi.

I am tending to agrees with Mebbid.. I also thought it was velvet but after huge WCs and addition of uv sterilizer, it is still happening. I think I will do a 100% WC and start from scratch. Every single person seems to be stumped and its the only thing I haven't tried.

I am thinking the same thing.. 100% water change, I just hate thought of cycling again, but its for the best!!

55 Gallon reef aquarium. Fluval Canister Filter with Phosgard and Chemi Pure and Bio Floss in it. Protein Skimmer. UV Sterilizer. Tap water Conditioned with Prime SQ 1.024 Am 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Calcium 420 ALK 12 PH 8.2 temp 76 Livestock list 2 turbo snails 13 heads of fine grae coral...

I would recommend a uv sterilizer, I will kill all the free floating algae spores in the water column.

+1 to blert. Although I wouldn't recommend a HOB I would recommend starting a sump for tank. With the size you would really need to do maintenance on the filter every otherday not EverydayI use a canister but I do maintenance on it at twice a week.

Also, I had this issue, I bought a small yellow tang and he made great work of the algae.

Depending on what kind of phosphate remover u are using, make sure u change it out often, after a while they can leach back into the tank. Also the existing algae is locking up the trates and phates, so ur test reading may be okay. U may want to turn lights out for a couple days as the algae...

How old is the tank?

Do you test the water from the store before you add it to your tank? Also even though fish are consuming the food, they still have to expell it from them, by pooping ect. What kind of filtration are u using?

You can use chemiclean. It will help fix the cyano issue, however it is just a band aid, you need to lower your nutrients.

What are your water perameters like? How old is the tank. What kind of lighting do you have?

Carey.. I have read a lot of your posts, u seem to have a really good grasp.. Do you have any ideas for my situation? I am trying to gather as much advice as I can so i don't keep wasting money.

Prime takes all metals and chorine/chloramine out of the water. I always test the water after mixing with cheap test strips for sw. I use API liquid tests for the DT and do that every other day. I have also taken the same water to 3 of my LFS and all tests resulted with my results in the first...

No I am using tap supplemented with prime. Mix water and sal and let it sit for 24 hrs. I am also going to start switching to rodi water. I am gonna do WC and start qt. I am gonna let tank sit for a few weeks and then qt a hearty fish and see if that makes a difference... Switching topics, my...

Never mind that last post greentree. How would u recommend getting rid of the disease in my DT now?

I do not but am going to start one this week. I think a fish I purchased my have introduced the problem. My issue now is that I feel the harmful bacteria/ parasites have reproduced and infected my tank.. If I run a uv sterilizer, will it kill the problem?

I do not, but am going to start a qt tank. I am thinking one of the fish introduced it.. If I run a uv sterilizer will it kill the pathogens/ velvet already in the DT?

I have 60 lbs of live rock 1 1/2 in deep live sand bed. No copper no ammonia.

After reading on other posts, I feel it could be marine velvet as soon after introduced to the DT they have very rapid breathing then begin acting lethargic. I drip acclimate for at least 30 minutes before introducing.

I mean been set up since January **

I have a 55 gal saltwater tank that has been set up since July. I am currently running a fluval 406 canister with Phosguard, carbon and chemipure. I also have a sea clone HOB skimmer that I empty 1-2 times a week. Skim mate is very dark. My sg is 1.024 am 0 trite 0 trate 0 kh 12 ph 8.2 temp 79...