Search results

I decided to set my 29G aquarium back up about a month ago. I did a fishless cycle that took around 5 weeks. I did a 100% WC, re-checked the water perimeters after 24 hours and all was good. I went to the LFS and bought 8 Harlequin Rasbora, and 8 White Cloud Minnows (not the best combo...

Yeah whenever my C3 doesn't restart after a PWC I know it's due for a cleaning, usually every 2-3 months. It is noisy at first, but after a day or two it's quiet again. I've tried using vaseline before, and it ended up at the bottom of the motor in a greasy clump. It smelled bad, and was a...

My tap water has a pH of 7.2 out of the tap, but when I let it sit in a bucket overnight it goes up to 7.8. I too was thinking my substrate+rock decor was raising my pH until I did the overnight test.

http://www.fishpond.com.au/Pets/Seachem-Laboratories-ASM881-Kanaplex-5-Gram/0000116088107 http://www.fishpond.com.au/Pets/Mars-Fishcare-Furan-2-Powder-10-Pack-70P/0317163160701 Maybe that? Says ships from a U.S. supplier.

Yeah I feel for you guys outside the U.S., just not any options when it comes to antibiotics for our fishy friends. You may want to try a local veterinarian, they may be able to write a script for something other than tetracycline. I remember reading a post about an aussie who needed metro...

Tetracycline is most effective for gram positive bacteria, columnaris is gram negative. Nitrofurazone (Furan-2), Kanamycin (Kanaplex), or Minocycline (Maracyn-2) are better options. Triple sulfa can be hit or miss, works best if used early on. Another note, gram positive antibiotics (like...

I got my fixture today, and the lighting is a HUGE improvement over the standard single t8 most kits come with. It's a very natural light, no blue/red tint what so ever. Time will tell how the plants react. I bought the fixture from Amazon, and it seems I got a unit that had been returned...

I ended up going with the Finnex Planted+, just wanted a 30" fixture. If I had a 36" tank I probably would've gone with the Current USA. Will post my thoughts when I get it.

I'm looking to upgrade the single T8 to a LED fixture on my standard 29g. I am looking at the Current USA Freshwater LED+, and the Finnex FugeRay Planted+. I'm a bit concerned about the Current USA because it's a 23" fixture, while the Finnex is an actual 30" fixture. I don't want the sides...

Best thing you can do is isolate her in a breeder net or a different aquarium to let her heal. Chances are the guppy will never be able to live peacefully in that aquarium, aggression is a hard thing to fix.

Just keep watching. One flash doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong. If the flashing gets more frequent, or spreads to other fish there is something wrong.

Does she look preggo? She may be ready to pop.

If the fish have been ich-free for 3-4 days you shouldn't have to treat anymore. With the main tank it's hard to say. Since the tank has been at 86f the ich shouldn't be reproducing unless its a heat tolerant strain. As long as the fry doesn't show any symptoms it shouldn't be an issue.

Tetra safe start is the only bacteria in a bottle that's worth anything. After 10 days at 86f the ich should be getting better. If it's not you either have a heat resistant strain, or your thermometer is wrong. Treating ich with meds isn't the worst idea. Ich meds won't affect your cycle...

Your pH and GH are pretty low for mollies. They prefer a pH range of 7.5-8 and a GH range of 15-30. I'd put some aquarium salt (1tbs/5gal) in the hospital tank, and see if that perks the molly up.

1) Treat the angel fish with the platy. 2) Crank up the temp on the big tank to 86F, this will help speed up the ich's life cycle. The tank should be clear in 5-7 days. 3) Continue treating for 3 days after fish are symptom free is the general rule of thumb.

Seachem Cupramine is a newer type of copper treatment. From their website: Cupramine™ effectively eradicates Oodinium, Cryptocaryon, Amyloodinium, Ichthyophthirius, and other ectoparasites of both freshwater and marine fish. It is superior to copper sulfate...

It could be colmnaris. Fungus-like tuffs on the mouth & before the dorsal fin (like the first pic) are common. It is also a rapid killer. Best to treat it with a gram negative antibiotic like Furan-2 or Maracyn 2. This may affect your biological filter, so keep an eye on your parameters if...

Test your water to make sure ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels are good. First thing I'd try is a 50% water change, see if that perks him up. Don't bomb the tank with meds until you have an idea what's wrong. Not eating/schooling can be anything.

I have an Eheim Jager in my 29g, and a Hydor 25w in my betta tank. Both work great. I like the Hydor for small tanks because 1) it was the only adjustable 25w heater I could find 2) it's small when compared to the other 50w adjustable heaters. Just my 2 cents.

If it were me I'd just get another Fluval. Even the best made equipment will have defects from time to time, more so these days due to poor quality control to save $$. The E series are one of the best heaters on the market currently. Besides, you are now an expert in how they work! If you...

It could've been the other Angel being a bully, but it's hard to tell when they go with no visible symptoms.

My platy is covered in a mostly green but some gold glitter-like substance, it's especially bad around her head. They appear to be tiny dots, just super close together to make it look like a sheen. There are no isolated specks, its either a cluster or nothing at all. She has a cloudy...

Ahh yea I didn't know you were in Canada, things are more expensive up there. Just look around, I'm sure you can find one for $45 or so.

Powerheads aren't that much. Water Pumps & Wavemakers: Hydor Koralia Evolution Something like that would work well. This is an expensive hobby, that's for sure. They bait you with a cheap tank, then you end up needing a stand, filters, heaters, lighting, all the decor. Once you have...