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it splashes down through filter media (though there is probably less than an inch between the line and the top of the filter media).. then it trickles over a biowheel. If I could figure out a good way to cover it, I can see that cutting some of the noise..

Ok - this may sound silly, but I have a big aquarium in the same room as a home recording studio. It's a Marineland JetStream system, using overflows and a sump (at Tidepool2). The sump sits under the tank in a stand that has doors on the front and is open on the back. The tank itself is...

I only clipped off my control rods once the system had been running for a couple weeks, through a water change, and I was happy with it.. I wouldn't "advise" you cut yours :)

Yeah, I found the best way to tweak the levels is to start, as it sounds you did, with the control rods all the way up, mine extend into the overflow tube approximately half an inch.. I actually snipped the rods off so they don't stick up 8" off the top of the tank! I also found that once the...

when I did my first fishless cycle, I tried calculating the amount of ammonia to add, added like 3 CUPS rather than X drops.. NH3 was waaaaaay off any tester scale.. the whole room stunk like a toilet, but it settled down eventually and the tank cycled in 14 days.. (125G)

Those old claw-foot bathtubs are valuable if in good condition.. my parents were just getting estimates on re-doing a bathroom where there is a very old claw-foot tub.. The guy told them they were crazy to want to get rid of it, that new they go for upwards of $3000 (USD) and if they don't want...

yeah I have my SWR 4x10 bass cab across the room from my 125.. even when it's thumping the fish don't appear bothered.. they seem to line up and watch!

how about doing a fishless cycle and avoiding the problem entirely?

My 125g cycled fishlessly completely in 14 days.. I started with about 1 gallon of "filter mud" from an established tank, and overdosed with much more than 5ppm of NH3 on day one.. the tank fully supported the addition of 30 medium sized cichlids after that.. I think the amount of established...

I've used them with flake food everytime I've gone away with no problems.. I have nothing bad to say about them.. just make sure you remove the battery while it's not in use

My guess is that a 404 would probably be able to handle those 3 small tanks if you plumbed them properly.. My only concern would be the fact that all three tanks would be circulating the same water supply.. which in and of itself isn't a problem unless you start dealing with any...

yeah, ditto to what they said.. I'll only add that if this is happening frequently, which mine started to do, as well as it made another strange grinding noise - open it up and pull out the impeller shaft.. the magnet piece on the bottom of mine had cracked off and so it wasn't spinning...

Ok I'm really at a loss here.. w/o taking up too much space, a brief overview: 1. 125G tank, 81deg, ph=8.2, NH3=0, N02=0, N03=20, gH and Kh are acceptable range (didn't test today) weekly 25% water changes. 2. a little over a month ago, one of my 4" male c.moorii had some kind of injury...

sounds like a good idea! I'd like to see drawings.. I've been toying with ideas of how to get much increased sump capacity.. I'd like to be able to change 30G of water (at least!) within the sump itself, while still having a wet/dry setup that doesn't have to sit several feet off the floor...

The spines meaning the bony structures fanning outward on the tail itself I assume? I have a Demasoni who got beatup pretty bad once, his entire tail was gone, just a bloody stump where the base of the tail once was. Within a month it was entirely grown back.

yeah, careful with those calculations.. we had concluded "3 CUPS" and after 1.5 CUPS I knew that was waaay too much.. Turns out it didn't matter, yeah it was a huge overdose of NH3 (a 10% solution) but after 13 days the tank was completely cycled (without of course, the addition of any more...

don't worry about the nitrates - yet. as long as the NH3 and N02 keep going back to zero after your additions of NH3, you should keep adding the same small amount of NH3 until you're ready for the fish.. then, do a huge water change (at least 50%) to bring the nitrates back down, and then it's...

I'd say don't even worry about the huge water change.. I did the same thing with my fishless cyle, only had "calculated" the amount of my solution to be 3 CUPS.. I thought I'd start slow and put in 1.5 CUPS first.. WAAAAAAY to much..stank like a toilet.. I started doing a small water change but...

I believe using the pure ammonia method will get you faster results, and the ability to fully stock your tank when complete. if you plan on stocking slowly and don't mind waiting a week or two longer, go with the shrimp method.

Based on my thread for help with my c.moorii who ha a red/swollen fin, I've come to the conclusion that the problem here is one of two things: 1. a secondary infection from an injury 2. a parasite. The fish has had this ailment for 3 weeks now, at first I treated with Melafix, but that didn't...

thanks for the reply.. I had thought about that as well. the "string" appears to be gone.. the sore is still there. treating right now with Maracyn2 but if in fact it's a parasite, not sure if that will work

The first fish I put in my first tank, 5 years ago, were a pair of Zebra Danios to cycle the tank.. at first the tank was a FW community tank, converted to mbuna cichlids about a year later, left the danios.. much time has passed, but the Danios were the constant. one of them just died the...

I have a HOT biowheel on my 55G in conjunction with a Fluval 304.. when I need to setup a hospital tank, I use the biowheel from the 55g and don't see any changes in the 55. My 125 is an overflow/sump system with the Tidepool2 biowheel/sump.

nice work.. very professional, surprised you use Paintshop Pro and not Photoshop though.

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