10g coral hotel tank

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Sergie

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Joined
Apr 15, 2011
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I have a bubble algae problem in my 46 g bowfront. I'm setting up a 10 g tank to house my corals. I'm taking a 10 lb rock from my display tank and transfering it to the 10 g. Since the 10 g will only house corals and a 10 lb rock that already contains beneficial bacteria, will I need to let it cycle?
 
Yeah I have two...they're not doing their job lol. So I am going to move my corals, do a lights out for a week and see where we're at with the bubbles.
 
There shouldn't be a huge release of ammonia from coral unless you do a lot of spot feeding, so a cycle may not occur while you battle the algae. The zooxanthellae residing within the coral will take in most of the waste reducing the amount excreted into the environment. In the event the temporary tank spikes, you can always employ water changes to help out for a bit.
 
So would I even need to put some live rock in the 10 gallon from my 46? Or would that make it spike because there could be die off??
 
You're spot on. I'd leave it out. Anyway, the live rock may contain some algae that you're trying to get rid of, get on the coral, and re-seed your tank.

Some small plastic crates fashioned into racks would be even better if you're worried about placement. What kind of coral are we talking about?
 
Zoanthid colony, green star polyps, colt, torch, trumpet and some mushrooms. I have. 24" 48w T5HO that I'm putting on the 10. The 10 is only 20" long so I'll have a couple inches on each end hanging off.
 
You probably won't even need to worry about placement. That's plenty of light. Watch the water paramaters closely though. Zoos and shrooms can get messy over time. And keep the LPS spaced out, but you probably already know that. Don't want a biological war going on in your 10g.
 
Ok. So how does this sound? I'm putting 10 lbs of sand (because after I fix my algae problem and move my corals back I may make this into a frag tank), put heater and AC20 in, put mixed water in, run filter for an hour and make sure everything is working, move corals in. Will that work?
 
Well there she is in all her beauty. So far so good. Zoas, colt and polyps are all opened. Which is a good sign. They're the ones that usually close when something is off.
 
Tested the water today and here are the results:

Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I'm using a PH from my DT. Would the bacteria on my PH and on the base of the corals be enough to consume ammonia and nitrite? Should I drop a crab in there to keep the bacteria fed? I know corals produce little waste, but would it be enough to keep the bacteria alive?
My zoas have two pineapple sponges on them. With nothing to filter feed, will they die and cause a spike in my tank?
 
Anybody want to chime in? I'm just trying to make sure nothing dies. And if the sponges die, will it cause a mini cycle. They're small and there are only three. They look good now but without anything to feed on I'm assuming they'll die off.
 
I figured someone would throw in an opinion. Nothing like feeling like you're going about this alone.

I was told I do not need to cycle a coral only tank. But the powerhead and coral has some of the nitrifiying bacteria on it. I feel like the bacteria on the coral skeleton and base needs to be fed some ammonia. Should I drop a hermit in there? Feed him a little algae flake every other day. I really don't want the bacteria to die and then start a mini cycle. Too much money in this 10 gallon tank.

Any comments or help would be appreciated.
 
Without cycling my water conditions using RODI water are:

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Ph: 8.2
Calcium: 440
Dkh: 9

I'd say those are more than perfect. But What I want to know is will the little waste that corals produce, be enough to feed the bacteria on the coral and powerhead? Or should I be adding something to avoid dead bacteria and the start of a mini cycle?
 
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