Advice PLZ, new 46g bow filtration, lighting+

[Musket]

Hi, I was hoping some of you here could help me. This is the largest tank I have ever had. For my birthday, my husband got me a new 46g bowfront tank and stand. It's beautiful! Huge too, much larger than I thought. It is currently in the tub, filled to the brim, checking for leaks, 6 hours so far so good. I would like some advice on filtration, lighting and the transfer of my current tank. I am looking for the best, quietest equipment. (Please give all opinions and suggestions, but I am on a budget). Please give valid reasons for your suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Anyway, since I keep getting conflicting info from what I read and whom I speak with, I thought I'd ask the folks who actually have experience. AA folk. Thus I can use the information and decide on what to do. I'd love to get it set up soon, it is blocking my hallway, and well now..., my bathtub

My little tank (10g) has the following inhabitants who need to be transferred to the big boy tank.
1- 4" chocolate Pleco
2- 3" iridescent gourami's
2- 1" guppies
2- 1.5" algae eaters
1- 1.5" male betta
1- 1" female betta
1- 1" mystery snail
1- .5" mystery snail
3- 1" ghost shrimp
Well planted, thriving. (Starting to look like a jungle. Lots of natural daylight, algae blooms once, but not a problem in 7 months
2.5" deep layer of thumbnail sized, natural riverstone pebbles. This tank runs an undergravel, an hob, and an internal Shark filter. My biggest fear is losing one of my babies due to the transfer, but they really have outgrown their home. However everyone is happy and healthy. This is a huge jump in space for them, I hope it doesn't freak them out too much. I also have some large rocks, slate, stones, and shells in there.

I was planning on transferring all the decor, including plants and rocks, etc to the new tank. Of course I will need to add more river stone to get to the 2.5" depth. (I already have them.) I know that transferring these items will help establish the biological filter faster. I also planned on running their old filter along with the new one for a few weeks. I have bought two large, pre-soaked and colonized, pieces of african driftwood from a trusted lfs to go in the tank as well, this should help too.

I do not want to take 6-8 weeks to do this. I was also planning on using as much of the original tank water as possible. But if I do this, I have to move the kids immediately. What if I used just a few handfuls of current gravel and move some of the large rocks and shells to the new tank along with the new driftwood, would I then be able to safely add the water and kids to the new tank in say, a week? Please advise. Should I use something like Stress Zyme - a biological filter booster?

Regarding lighting:
This new tank however will not be going in the location of the current tank, it is far too large. It will have to go in the same room but directly across the room. Here it will get very little direct sun, some natural light, but not nearly as much as it currently does. Thus, - plant lighting questions. The tank came with an "eclipse natural daylight" fluorescent bulb 36" length. No other indications on the bulb. I really like my plants and wonder what would be best for them and the fish.

Regarding filtration:
All my tanks currently have undergravel filters except my 5g bow. I like the open clean look of that, but worry they do not get enough filtration. With the amount of decor and plants, I should be able to hide the lift tubes fairly well, (in the current tank I can not see them). I do like the bubbles from the ugf. I also have an hob on each tank and either a dirt magnet, internal jet type filter, or corner filter in each tank.

I was wondering if I need the undergravel filter, if it would help or harm - I have never had a problem with them in the past, and used them years ago as well, when they were the biggest thing since sliced bread, but I know they are not the only filter the tank would need. I have never trusted them to that task alone.

I was wondering about heating, should I use 2 smaller heaters, one on each side? The same with hob filters? 2 smaller ones, - one on each side? Or just one large of each relatively in the middle? Should I go with a canister? Never used one before, only recently been looking at them, so expensive... Or something else? Help!

My current acquisitions are: (can return only for store credit, wish I had know that prior to purchase)
1- 200w Theo heater by Hydor
1- 36" undergravel filter, 3 lift tubes, capacity for 4. UGFiltration will not be in the bow area.
1- Aqua Clear 70 hob filter (for 40-70g tanks)
1- Aqua Clear 102 powerhead - had this, clean and works, is it necessary?

Thank you so much, any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Please give brand, size and if you have it estimated cost of your suggestions (budget thing) and if you know, maintenance costs... (ie: weekly, biweekly, monthly changes needed).
Thanks again.

 

[Devilishturtles]

What if I used just a few handfuls of current gravel and move some of the large rocks and shells to the new tank along with the new driftwood, would I then be able to safely add the water and kids to the new tank in say, a week? Please advise. Should I use something like Stress Zyme - a biological filter booster?

My guess would be that using the old filters, some gravel, decos, etc. would get you quite a large jump on a cycle. So that it just might finish in a week. Tank water really won't help you too much, beause you are looking for surface bacteria. Your decos will help more in seeding your new water, than tank water would. Using the old filter in conjunction is even better.

Regarding lighting, you may want to look into a 36" Power Compact fixture for your tank. With your new tank comes new depth too. My guess is that your current light on the tank is less than 30 watts, and just a regular NO bulb. This won't do for most plants. What kind of plants are in your tank?

Regarding filtration, you will get so many different mixed reviews on UGF's. I personally don't use them. Some people swear by them. Whether you want to use it or not is up to you. They require extra cleaning, to prevent a buildup up gunk underneath of them as well.

Your heater looks good. I'd have gone with a bit more wattage, but as long as you don' t keep your room in the extreme temps (cold or hot) you should be fine with 200 watts.

I'd exchange the AC 70 for an AC 110. It's only a few extra dollars, and gets you 500 GPH of filtration. You can't beat that, IMHO.

Power heads are good for water movement, I'd keep it.

HTH

 

[Musket]

Heating: Our home is on the 3rd floor, it is quite warm up here, typically 76-80 degrees, perhaps a bit cooler in the summer. I chose the 200w because from what I read on most boxes that is what this tank size called for, some required a 250w, depending on the brand. The next size up in this brand is 3.5 inches longer. The box reads for 26-53 gallons. This is a 46g tank, you think that is pushing it a bit? The tank will be in a corner on a diagonal and not near the fresh breeze from the window as the current location is. Thus is will not get direct light as the current tank gets. The top will be 3-3.5 feet below a heat/air register, but it blows out not down. The heater I can return, and just looked on drsfostersmith.com and found the 3oow for less than I paid for the 200w. Just do not know what shipping will be or how long it will take to get here. I have used them before for my cats special medicine, so I trust the company. Do you think I should go up?

Plants - current: anacharis, tall Sagittaria subulata, bi-colored spikes sit close together-do not remember name, Ludwigia repens (had some in my goldfish tank, but they ate it, and my lobsters last night ate 3 of the 4 leaves I put in with them)
new: java moss, wisteria, dwarf Sagittaria subulata, anubias nana

Light fixture reads: 120VAC 60Hz, 40W
current tank says 120volt, 60Hz, 19w but gets really good sunlight.

Filtration:Should I just use a 2nd smaller or equal size hob? Or just add a dirt magnet for increased surface space, I could easily hide that with some plants and rocks. Just questioning. Was wondering if the flow from a larger filter would be too strong?

do you think I would need 2 same sized powerheads? Or is one sufficient?

 

[Purrbox]

Here the Chart of DrFosterSmith Shipping Rates.

 

[Johnmc]

Make sure you have the glass Versatop for the 46ga, not the 'Deluxe' plastic & glass top. The Deluxe will not accommodate a double fluorescent fixture or some of the other larger lighting fixtures. They cost about the same, so you should be able to exchange it if you have the Deluxe.

 

[Musket]

The hood that come with the tank has a glass canopy with plastic hinge. Then a plastic part that slides onto that so you can cut it to fit your filter, etc. Then on top of that goes a "perfect a strip" plastic top, single bulb two pins, highly reflective. (as long as you don't fingerprint it up moving it around )
Is the base correct but I should get a lighting fixture that holds 2 bulbs for better lighting?

 

[Lonewolfblue]

You could get a fixture that holds 2 bulbs, or you can get a CF single bulb fixture. Both will give you quite a bit more light. Also, you already have the glass tops, so you will be able to get a different fixture if you want. Also check Ebay. There are great sources for lighting, and some good Ebay stores to get them from. I prefer Ebay stores over individuals. That's where I got all my current lighting.

Another option, if you want to reduce clutter, get a cannister filter like the XP2 or the fluval 304. Then you can get the Hydor Eth inline heater. It just goes inline with the output of the cannister. So then you have no heaters visible in the tank. I have it on my XP3 in my 75G planted tank, and see no real big temp fluctuations, stays between 78-79 degrees. Very stable setup.

As for the cycle, you could put all your fish in right away, IMO, if you move it all at once. First I'd fill the tank half-way and dechlorinate. Then add the gravel in the bottom. Once the gravel is in, then add all the gravel from the existing tank on top. Then add all the decor, and move the old filter over and start it up immediately. Then set up the new filter. You can also add the driftwood as well. Then add the fish. Also, make sure you have a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. You may see a small spike, but with using all the old gravel and moving over the old filter, it should be only minimal. Just don't add any new fish for a couple weeks to give the bacteria time to spread and colonize in the new tank.

As for UGF, I'd stay away from it. Especially if you are wanting to plant the tank. If you are staying with lower lighting plants, then no need for CO2, and thus you can go with either a HOB filter or a cannister. But if you are looking at higher lighting, then you may eventually need CO2 added, and HOB's aren't really recommended with CO2 injection, as there's too much CO2 loss. HOB's work, but you just end up using more CO2 in the long run. Therefore, cannisters are the best bet for this type of tank.

Hope I gave some good pointers. Doesn't sound like you are wanting CO2, just thought I'd throw out some pointers for future reference.

 

[Johnmc]

You have the right top.

 

[Musket]

I'm still really questioning the undergravel filter. Can you please tell me why an UGF is not good for plants. Or not good in general. I'm old school, I've been using them since they were the "big thing". So when I got back into the hobby, I naturally started to use them again. My 10 gallon with a ton of happy plants has one. The other 2 tanks both have one but have only a few plants.

One place says if you have a planted tank it is an ABSOLUTE MUST HAVE. Another says they steer away from them because they tend to draw the debris into the gravel where it decomposes. - I thought you wanted this for a bacterial filter. -
Then they say this decomposition can cause nitrates and phosphates which cause algae. Well my one tank does have some algae on the rocks and gravel rocks but I thought that was from the sunlight that hits the tank. The other tanks with ugf's do not have algae on any rocks.
Then the 1st guy says that exactly what the 2nd guy says is why you want the ugf for the plants. That you want the breakdown of the poop and uneaten food to feed the plants.

I do not use "gravel" per se, I use river stone, the size of the base of a womans thumb nail. Some are smaller, but none are tiny. I would think this would mean it would not clog the filter. Is this okay for plants, the 10 gallon don't seem to mind it, probably gets more air.. Wouldn't the UGF give the roots more air and space to grow since it has the gap?
Ugh, sigh, bother. Help!

 

[Purrbox]

I think the biggest reason to avoid an undergravel filter with plants is the annual maintenance. Every so often you need to tear everything apart so that you can clean under the plate to remove all the gunk under them to prevent it from getting clogged. Now this in itself is a hastle, then combine it with the fact that to pull it up you're going to have to disturb all your plants and possibly damage their roots if they've grown through the plates. Not to say that it can't be done, it's just not worth it to me. I think it's much easier to pull out some filter media swish it in some tank water removed during a water change and then put it back in the filter. Also much easier to take of and pull apart a HOB filter without disturbing everything else if it needs a really good cleaning.

You really should consider some smaller grain gravel. Your plants are going to have a rough time trying to root in the river stone. If you like the look of the river stone, you could try mixing in a smaller grained gravel to give the plants a little more to hold onto.

 

[Musket]

I am still using an HOB. I decided to keep the Aqua Clear 70. I hooked it up to my 10 gallon to start seeding it. I figured a few days running would be better than no days running. I have it setup so that the flow runs into a large rock, I also have it set to as low as it will go. No one seems to mind it so far. I think I will turn it off at night and just run it during the day while I can watch over it. I took the carbon and biomax out of the current filter and left it running with just the sponge.
Then I setup the new filter with the sponge, carbon, current filters carbon and biomax -same level right next to each other- then then new biomax. I thought this might help with the seeding.

Every tank I have but the 5g bow have an ugf + an hob + either and internal shark, elite, corner filter or dirt magnet filter.
I have never completely taken apart my tank to clean the ugf (except when actually taking the tank down. You can clean under the plate with the gravel cleaner. However I do understand the concern about the roots and the bother.
If I don't go with the ugf I will add a smaller substrate under the river stone as you suggest. I had done that once before years ago. Just when you clean the tank the gravel mixes and it doesn't look as nice. (to me)

Thanks for the future pointers Lonewolfblue. You are right, I am not looking to use CO2. I have to say that it sounds like a pain, and an expense I just do not want to deal with right now. But honestly I have not done enough research to back my claim

I have looked at some of those canister filters - ouch what a price tag. I just can't find one that clicks with me. Honestly, I'm getting tired of looking around. Apparently I have decided to keep the Aqua Clear70 rated for 40-70g tank, again mine is a 46g. It was one of the items from the store credit only store, the filter prices were great, but most everything else is pricey. I figured, it was already here, I'll bite this one. Can't change my mind now, see what I did... I unpacked it, set it up, was quite surprised that with 3 filter medias in the basket I had room for one more. So, I took the carbon and biomax out of the current filter, left the sponge in and kept it running. I set up the new filter as follows: New sponge-big sponge, new carbon, current filter carbon and biomax-same level-next to each other, new biomax. I figured this would help establish the new filter, and it is running on my little 10 gallon tank. I set the flow to as low as it would go and situated it on the side so it flows into a large rock. The fish do not seem to mind it. I did make sure to leave 2 large areas (hard to do on a 10 gallon tank huh?) that remain calm, in case they need a breather.

I figured that running the filter here to get it started even for just a few days is better than no days. Of course I will still run both filters on the new tank. I even added a 2nd sponge on the little filter to it to help out more. Maybe I will use that new little sponge over the intake of the filter?? What do you all say? Also, if this proves not to be enough filtration, I can always eventually get a canister, or add another smaller filter yes?

 

[Musket]

Any other suggestions please?