Algae/Phosphate Correlation

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bcarl_10gal

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So over the last week or so I have noticed some algae coming back into my tank. I started dosing PPS Pro at the recommended levels. It appears my plants still have a potassium deficiency so I am going to start dosing potassium again. But when I checks my phosphate levels they are 10+ PPM. I proceeded to check the water from the tap and it is around 7+ PPM. Should I lower my phosphate level? Is this the reason for the algae growth? If so what is the most effective way to adjust the phosphate level? Also I do not have any red colored plants.
 
What's your light, ferts, CO2/Excel, etc, setup? What kit are you measuring your phosphates with?


Also, if you didn't have a phosphate test kit, would you even know that there was a problem?
 
I have a pressurized CO2 system, fugeray leds that run for about 6 hours a day, and dose excel along with pps pro. I have notice little gray threads coming from the plant leaves. That prompted me to test the phosphate levels. Also i have the API phosphate test kit.
 
Tap water with that much PO4 is unusual. Most municipal treatment facilities have ways to treat it down to <.1ppm but I'm not sure it's a legal limit. May depend on your state's DEQ's standards. A lot of advanced planters like their PO4 levels at 1-1.5ppm for mostly green plants and aroung 5-10ppm for lots of non-green & red plants. What's your NO3 levels? Do you have the PPS NO3 separate from the PO4 and Pottasium? I would double check the PO4 tests and remember to shake the crap out of each bottle before adding to test waters. What's the size/depth of your tank? OS.
 
So I redid the test and shook the bottles vigorously and got a 2.0PPM phosphate. This is a little above the target range but nothing to be concerned over. So now that the problem is not high phosphates what else could cause this grayish thread algae?
 
Can you post a picture of it so identification can be made? I almost sounds like staghorn algae. Something is out of balance and that is what is causing the algae.

What type of light and bulbs are you using?
 
What species of plants do you have, how many & do they seem to be growing well? We still need to know what your nitrate level is. OS.
 
So my nitrates are around 10PPM. My plants had a potassium deficiency but the new growth is not showing signs anymore. My plants are showing good growth. I have 2 swords a java fern, dwarf sag, banana plant and baby tears (just seeing if it will grow). My lights are the Finnex FugeRay LEDs 18" on a ten gallon tank.
 

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That looks like the start of BBA, black beard algae. It's often caused from leaving lights on too long but you don't. In fact I'm surprised you have it but that means something is out of balance. Maybe up your CO2 a little.

You can also spot treat it with Hydrogen Peroxide. One thing I learned a long time ago is Sword plants don't respond well to spot treating with liquid carbon so use the Peroxide. Pull up 3ml of Peroxide for every 10g of tank water in a syringe and slowly squirt the algae as close to it as you can. Be sure to turn your filter and lights off before treating and leave them off 20 minutes after. If you have a lot then you will have to do one area a day. The algae will usually start dying within 24 hours.
 
The plants you have are slow growers except the sword plants which are medium. Your Nitrates are perfect. The Fugeray on a 10 should be giving you medium light which is good. You need one type of fast grower to help out compete the algae. Try adding 3-4 stems of Hygrophia Difformis(Wisteria) or green cabomba. All the tanks I've read about in here that have no algae problems balance light time, ferts and carbon and also have a mix of fast and slow growers. Keep doing regular water tests for NO3 & PO4 at weekly WC's to track your PPS dosing and adjust accordingly. Looks to me your doing everything well. And all of us have algae pop ups that we have to adjust for. Good luck, hope I helped a little. OS.
 
Rivercats: the pressurized CO2 system has only been running for a week so it is possible that the algae was already going before that. I have had this algae before and spot treated with excel and destroyed my swords so this time i will be using hydrogen peroxide. This seems to be at the beginning stages but i know how bad it can get.

OS: i was actually considering some wisteria for my tank last time i went to my LFS now i have a reason to get some!

Thanks for your help!
 
So one thing ive learned about algae is half the battle is getting rid of it the other is finding why you have it and prevent it from coming back. So I've done some research and found that CO2 fluctuations can cause BBA. I began seeing the BBA after I installed my new pressurized CO2 system. It runs on a solenoid that has it turn on 1 hour before the lights turn on and turns off with the lights. The drop checker will be blue in the morning before the CO2 comes on and be green when the lights turn off. Would it be beneficial to have a more consistent flow by having it come on for a few hours during the night to help reduce the fluctuations? I also read that breaking the light cycle up into two separate intervals may help as well. Any input and advice would be helpful!
 
Rivercats: the pressurized CO2 system has only been running for a week so it is possible that the algae was already going before that. I have had this algae before and spot treated with excel and destroyed my swords so this time i will be using hydrogen peroxide. This seems to be at the beginning stages but i know how bad it can get.

OS: i was actually considering some wisteria for my tank last time i went to my LFS now i have a reason to get some!

Thanks for your help!

The algae is probably coming from the CO2 being new and not quite tuned into your tank. I have the same issue trying to get mine right, which I think I finally have. The algae started when I added another light and began CO2. I upset the balance of my tank that had been algae free for about a year. I was told to up the amount of CO2 a little and I think that is going to take care of things. I also have had to adjust my photoperiod too.
 
How did you you change your photo period (longer? shorter? intervals?) and on the CO2 did you change how long it was on or did you adjust the BPS?
 
I had to shorten the time my T5HO's ran (down to 8 hours from 10), left the metal halides at 6 hours, then am running the new LED the same 6 hours as the halides. I had to up the BPS but remember I have a 220g so it take a little more using two diffusers to get it around the tank. I saw hair algae starting on my fissidens fontanus moss at the end of day 2 using CO2.
 
So after increasing my CO2 and increasing fertilizers my plants still have the alleged BBA. I have been overdosing excel as well. I increased the PPS dosing for each bottle to 1.5ML daily. My plants are still showing some signs (not as bad but new holes have occured)of a potassium deficiency ( i have been dosing flourish potassium 3ml every other day). I also have some green spot algae in the tank. Water parameters are the same as mentioned above. Any suggestions???
 
You need to spot treat the BBA or it takes forever for it to go away on it's own. As for the pin holes are they in new growth? Its new growth you have to watch. It should come in and remain without getting pinholes. Then you know your potassium level is fine. If new growth is getting pinholes still then you need to increase potassium. I have always found in my tank green spot algae forms when I don't have a high enough phosphate level. What is your phosphate level?
 
The phosphate level is at about 2.0PPM. The holes are on the newer growth then as the leaf matures the edges of the holes turn brown. Would increasing my CO2 help my BBA problem?
 
This chart may help you identify what your plants are doing... http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3641/3591814040_bc03c264a5_o.jpg.

CO2 will help with BBA but only run your lights 6 hours also. Depending on how much light you have, how much CO2 going into your tank is, and how many plants and what type you have your plants could be using more of certain nutrients than you think they would. I would also spot treat the BBA with H2O2 to kill it off and then make tank adjustments to keep it at bay.

I run my tank at 5-10ppm phosphates and finally don't see spot algae on my slower growing plants. You might want to think about slowly upping it.
 
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