Dissolved Oxygen Testing? Testing Supplies?

[OhNeil1969]

I've started keeping fish after a long absence. In my efforts to keep a healthy tank I've decided that regular water testing is a good tool. I'm currently using Jungle Quick Dip strips to test ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, etc. I've read some poor reviews of test strips as an accurate measurement tool. So I'm hoping that I could get some helpful info as to what some more experienced aquarists are using to test their water. I'm also interested in knowing if there is an effective way to check the dissolved oxygen content of my tank water. I currently have in my 29 gallon tank:
6 mollies (2 male/4 female),
2 neon tetras (all female),
2 guppies (all male),
1 zebra danio (male),
1 serpae tetra (male),
1 platy (male),
2 mystery snails (who knows?).
Along with that I've planted live plants in the tank and am running the TOPFIN 30 filter that came with the tank, a Marineland Penguin 200 Bio-wheel filter and 1 airstone. I've not seen any indication that the fish are oxygen deprived but I am conscious of the fact that many people may see this as overloading. I would just like to check the oxygen content to see if that is actually true. Any advice on what would be best to check my tank's overall health will greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[XimeD]

Regarding water testing, hands down API freshwater master test kit (tests for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH and high range pH).

I am not that familiar with all the fish you have so I won't venture an opinion. I will tell you though that the inch per gallon rule is worthless IMO, you need to consider space and filtration capacity, those are the 2 main factors that will limit your stocking. With space if you pick fish that will inhabit middle/top and bottom regions (vs all bottom, or just bottom and middle) you will be able better stock your tank. Regarding filtration you seem to have plenty with those 2 filters. Here's a stocking site, it is VERY conservative and some people have stocked up to 300% (I have stocked up to 175% with no problems), I think it is useful to give a general idea:
http://aqadvisor.com/

As for oxygen testing, I don't think you need an oxygen testing kit at all (I haven't heard of any either, chemically it's not that simple to test for oxygen). If you are overstocked, accumulation of ammonia/nitrites and nitrates will be a problem long before oxygen deprivation is. With the biowheel filter and the airstone (and the live plants) I honestly don't think you need to worry about the oxygen.

This is another kit you could get but that it is not absolutely necessary:
-gH/kH - API also makes these, this is to test for water hardness and will tell you if you have hard or soft water. There are conversion tables you can use to calculate the ppms of CO2 if you know kH and pH and this is useful in a planted tank (alternatively you can get a drop checker which basically does the same thing)

 

[Hubert90]

Firstly is ur tank cycled? How long have u had the fish for? And also I would recommend a canister filter especially with the amount of fish u are keeping in a 29g tank. And the filter that comes with the tank are normally useless..

Do u have a heater and thermometer? These are essential in tropical fish aquarium.

 

[OhNeil1969]

1st: Thanks Ximed for the info. I am aware of the aqadvisor site and it indicated that I was at about 88% stocking so I feel pretty good about that. To be honest, I wasn't sure how reliable the stocking calculator was so to hear that others are using it with success is encouraging.
2nd: Thanks to Hubert90 for responding. My tank has been up and running for 2 months now. I realize that there are varying ideas on how long a tank needs to cycle but I have every indication that it is. This mornings water test with the Quick dip strips indicated that:
ammonia = 0
nitrates = less than 20 ppm
nitrites = 0
chlorine = 0 (I know it's not an indication of cycling but I thought it would be good info to include).
I am concerned about by water hardness and pH. The strips indicate that my water is soft and that my pH is at 6.4. I'm worried that the hardness may be a sign that there are not enough buffers in the water and the low pH is a change from what I originally had. I was originally using distilled water for changes then changed to tap water that I treat with Prime. After making that change is when I noticed the drop in pH. All previous PWC did not affect the pH. BTW, I'm currently using the thermometer and heater (Neptune 100W) that came with the tank but am starting to see them for the junk that they are. Will be upgrading both in the near future.
Can you give me more info on the canister filter as to it's purpose and advantages?

Thanks!

 

[Hubert90]

Canister filters have a lot more space meaning more mechanical and biological filtration ( more area for beneficial bacterial to grow). Also they generally have a higher flow rate than the filter that came with the tank. Because canister filters are bigger therefore the period between filter maintenance are longer. But they are expensive.

 

[fort384]

The distilled water would not be good... it has 0 buffers in it and would eventually cause a pH crash. I am surprised you saw the pH decrease after ceasing using it.

I would keep an eye on it, but I would also caution against trying to chemically adjust the pH. Most tropical fish can survive in a wide range of pH values, and stable pH is more important than "exact" pH.

That are ways to increase the buffering capacity of your tank gradually, and somewhat naturally, should it become an issue. You said your water is soft... what is your GH testing at?

As far as testing for dissolved oxygen... it can be done, but not sure it is worth the effort. Salifert makes a liquid titration kit for dissolved oxygen, but it lacks some accuracy (since you are instantly changing dissolved oxygen content as you collect sampling). The alternative and more accurate method is to use a meter:

Dissolved Oxygen Meters

Not sure it would be worth the cost though for a home aquarium.