Filter and stocking questions

[kjohnson63]

I am brand new to trying to have a fish tank. When I was in highschool, which was last here I had a Teacher's Assistant period in which I had to help the Marine Bio teacher, I had to feed the fish (thats it). However, I have started, more like bought a fish tank. I have a 10 gallon tank with a heater, rocks, a air pump, and a filter that only is rated to filter 10 gallons. I have thought of upgrading to a higher power filter such as one that is rated for 30 gallons because I have heard that if I do this I can have more fish in my tank. This leads me to my next question, how many fish can I actually have in the tank, because I have heard many different opinions and read many different statements. The next question is what kind of fish can I have. I have done some research on which fish I think are cool looking and have came up with this; Ghost Shrimp, Silver Lyretail Molly, Fancy Guppy, Otocinclus, Velvet Wag Sword Tail, White Cloud, African Dwarf Frog, Black Molly, Tequila Sunrise Delta Guppy, Mystery Snail, Tiger Barb, Yellow Guppy, Skirt Tetra, Turquoise Guppy, Dalmatian Mollies, and Upside Down Catfish. I don't know if these fish are capable or what but I like them and have saw that they all are capable of living in a 10 gallon tank but I saw that on Petsmart which I have found out aren't very good with their facts.

The only thing I have in the tank currently is rocks, the filter has been going for a week now and have been told I can add fish. However, I also been told that I need to add certain chemicals to the water such as StartRight etc. If I do what chemicals? Also what else do you think I need to get to be able to take good care of the fish I get because I don't want to have poor conditions for the fish.

Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.

 

[Deep Seven]

Welcome to Aquarium Advice.

Glad to see you doing your research before buying fish. The most important thing I can recommend is to purchase a freshwater test kit. Then read up on the Nitrogen Cycle .

You can start this cycle with fish, or without. Your fish will apreciate the fishless cycle. The good bacteria will live in the filter media, so a larger filter will give more space for the bacteria. Trying to start the cycle with fish ends up being more work, more chemicals, and more dangerous for the fish.

If you start the nitrogen cycle fishless, you'll have a few weeks to work out what fish you want to add and you won't need to worry too much about that right now.

 

[kjohnson63]

Im sorry to not to know any of this but I need to test the Ammonia, pH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Hardness, and the Phosphate levels correct? So the bigger filter would be a good idea? I guess I am just a beginner and am afraid that if I don't do everything perfectly all my fish will do and just need some guidance on what to do.

 

[Deep Seven]

Yes, those tests should suffice. Strips usually don't cut it, go for the liquid kits. Yes, a bigger filter is a good idea, in my 8g quarantine tank I run a 20g filter.

And while we're talking about filters, don't change out your filter media until it's falling apart. About once a month rinse it in old tank water to clean it. When you do need to change the filter media, run the new stuff behind the old media for a few weeks.

No worries. Just keep asking any questions you have. No such thing as a stupid question.

 

[Saltair]

At the risk of highjacking this thread dont the bigger filters move a lot more water making a lot of current in a small tank?

 

[kjohnson63]

Ok thanks I might try to do the test and take it to the fish store since they will also test the water and I might not do it correctly since it is my first time testing water.

I think I am going to upgrade to a Marineland Penjuin Bio-Wheel 150B which can filter up to 30 gallons. Also what do you mean about the new media in front of the old stuff?

I have also heard of under-gravel filter would you suggest this or will this be unnecessary?

 

[Deep Seven]

Yeah, some of the tests are a little complicated, as you get the hang of them they'll be second nature.

I advise against under-gravel filter. Too many potential problems outwiegh any benifit in my opinion.

When you change out the filter cartridge, you want to run the new one behind the old one for a while giving the bacteria enough time to start using the new cartridge.

I'm not familiar with that filter. I like something customizable so I can make my own filter media instead of pre-made cartridges. I've read a few people say great things about penguin bio-wheels. I'd have to have it in my hands and see it operate to have any opinion on it.


EDIT: About the current, most filters allow you to adjust the flow if you find it too strong. Some fish enjoy playing in a strong current.

 

[kjohnson63]

Ok and to get the Nitrogen Cycle going could I use SafeStart or what other ways would you do to get your Nitrogen Cycle Started without having fish in your tank?

 

[Deep Seven]

To do it without fish you need to get an ammonia supply. The best way is to find pure ammonium hydroxide in aqueous solution, usually sold as 10%. If you have an Ace hardware nearby they sell it. You need pure ammonium without any surfactants. If you shake it and see any foam collecting on the surface it's the wrong stuff.

When you have your ammonium, you want to dose your tank to around 2-4ppm. If you want to try using safestart now is the time. Test every day or two for ammonium, and when they levels start going down add more to get 2-4ppm again and test for nitrites. If the cycle additive works perfectly you may not see nitrites. If so test for nitrates. If Nitrates are going up you're on your way.

When you can dose your tank and test 4ppm ammonium, and 24 hours later re-test and get zero ammonium and zero nitrites then you're done. You want to do a couple large water changes, test your tank to make sure everything is still stable, and add some fish.

If your ammonium and nitrites stay at zero for a week, add more fish and repeat until you have your tank stocked. If you get some ammonium or nitrites, do PWCs as necessary to get the levels at or below 0.25ppm. When the levels drop to zero restart your week timer.

 

[Mark Hewitt]

Im sorry to not to know any of this but I need to test the Ammonia, pH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Hardness, and the Phosphate levels correct?

You probably don't need to go that far. The API kit contains Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH tests, which should be sufficient.

So the bigger filter would be a good idea? I guess I am just a beginner and am afraid that if I don't do everything perfectly all my fish will do and just need some guidance on what to do.

If you can get a bigger filter now then, yes by all means do so, it would be even better to get a bigger tank . You just need to make sure there's not too much current or at least your other filter has a way to dial down the flow if it proves to be too much.

However a bigger filter with the flow turned down to match that of the smaller filter is always going to be better, but doesn't necessarily mean you can keep more fish as there are space implications too.

 

[kjohnson63]

I don't think the college I go to would appreciate me getting a bigger tank plus my room mate probably wouldn't like it either

 

[ChizerBunoi]

That's why you should let your roommate pick out one of the fishes. Then you can get that person into the hobby as well and maybe share some of the responsibilities when you go back home for the holidays.

 

[kjohnson63]

Ok I went to my local aquarium store and stopped going to petsmart because they have no idea what they are talking about, and I can tell that from the very little research I have done and they advised me to get the Marineland Penguin Bio Wheel 200B filter than can filter up to 50 gallons of water but I have a 10 gallon tank. So I took there word and bought the filter and set it all up and no my light hood doesnt fit right I have to flip it around and put the switch facing towards the front instead the back which does bother me at all but the main problem is that I think the filter is making to much current and I think when I do get fish this will disturb them. How will i know if It is too fast or strong?

Any answers or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ChizerBunoi]

That filter is rated for a 59 gal tank and is 5 x stronger than your tank. It also doesn't have an adjustment lever for the water flow. Maybe bring it back and exchange it for an Aquaclear filter instead. But just know that the water flow will be quite strong with that filter too. At least you can adjust the water flow.

 

[kjohnson63]

Yeah I know the filter is a little over board but I was told that you can never over filter a tank. I have notice that unlike my old filter that filter the water more straight down than straight out, unlike my bio wheel that spits it out more straight out than down which makes the top of the water mover. I think the current is almost the same, however, I think that the very top is just more active. I just was wondering if there was a standard to how much current you could have.

 

[Mark Hewitt]

Yeah I know the filter is a little over board but I was told that you can never over filter a tank.

Which is true, but you were only told half a tale, it's "you can't over filter the tank as long as it doesn't create excessive current!"

I have notice that unlike my old filter that filter the water more straight down han straight out, unlike my bio wheel that spits it out more straight out than down which makes the top of the water mover. I think the current is almost the same, however, I think that the very top is just more active. I just was wondering if there was a standard to how much current you could have.

Entirely depends on the fish, a lot of the fast swimmers like a good current. My baloon molly used to like to ride in the filter output. But others like fancy goldfish don't like it at all!