Fluval 305 Filter Media Goldfish

[nomad1212]

Hello

I recently bought a new tank which came with a Fluval 305 filter. I've spent a bit of time looking for what filter media to put in the filter but everyone seems to say something different and Fluval only "suggests" multiple options for what to use rather than what they typically put in their filters.

So I was wondering if anyone had some advice on what to put in the filter for media. I am putting goldfish into the tank and know they they can be much dirtier than other fish.

What I seem to see is 2 filters in the bottom trays, bio rings in the middle tray, and carbon in the top.

any advice can help!

thanks

 

[DutchMuch]

if you are getting goldfish make sure they are in twenty five plus gallons and the tank is cycled.
Recommend some bio sponge and filter floss, media balls.

 

[nomad1212]

if you are getting goldfish make sure they are in twenty five plus gallons and the tank is cycled.
Recommend some bio sponge and filter floss, media balls.

The tank is a 55 gallon. I'll be sure to cycle before adding the fish. I just wanted to get the filter sorted out before I started the whole process.

Do you suggest the filter floss balls in the middle trays where the bio tubes would normally be? And the bio sponge in the bottom?

 

[DutchMuch]

The tank is a 55 gallon. I'll be sure to cycle before adding the fish. I just wanted to get the filter sorted out before I started the whole process.

Do you suggest the filter floss balls in the middle trays where the bio tubes would normally be? And the bio sponge in the bottom?

Tbh doesn't matter what order its in really, but I'd say filter floss and then the bio sponge, then these (not this brand though get a higher quality) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Yescom-1...0113&wl11=online&wl12=117840322&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[J.Mcpeak]

The order does matter.
Mechanical
Biological
Chemical (if used)

Into filter, first thing you should hit is sponges. This removes the larger particles ready for the next stage. Filter wool, removes finer debris (Mechanical).

Biological media, this handles nitrogenous waste, conversion of ammonia in most cases to nitrate. If this is first it blocks quickly and needs more regular cleaning.
(Biological) (you save a lot of extra work in this order)

Chemical, some people use carbon etc, this has very fine pores, only the cleanest water should make it here otherwise you reduce the useful life considerably. Other pH adjustment resins etc. are also placed here. (Optional filter floss) that's used to keep the final stage from introducing fine particulates back into the tank. Carbon for example can give off a fine dust for a short time.

Everybody has a different view! this is mine.

 

[nirbhao]

Interesting. I thought biological was supposed to be last.

Regardless, yes, you want mechanical first. Otherwise, all those big chunks get stuck in your chemical and biological filters.

 

[DutchMuch]

The order does matter.
Mechanical
Biological
Chemical (if used)

Into filter, first thing you should hit is sponges. This removes the larger particles ready for the next stage. Filter wool, removes finer debris (Mechanical).

Biological media, this handles nitrogenous waste, conversion of ammonia in most cases to nitrate. If this is first it blocks quickly and needs more regular cleaning.
(Biological) (you save a lot of extra work in this order)

Chemical, some people use carbon etc, this has very fine pores, only the cleanest water should make it here otherwise you reduce the useful life considerably. Other pH adjustment resins etc. are also placed here. (Optional filter floss) that's used to keep the final stage from introducing fine particulates back into the tank. Carbon for example can give off a fine dust for a short time.

Everybody has a different view! this is mine.

thank you For explaining why and such

 

[J.Mcpeak]

No worries. Thanks for the thanks!

 

[nomad1212]

The order does matter.
Mechanical
Biological
Chemical (if used)

Into filter, first thing you should hit is sponges. This removes the larger particles ready for the next stage. Filter wool, removes finer debris (Mechanical).

Biological media, this handles nitrogenous waste, conversion of ammonia in most cases to nitrate. If this is first it blocks quickly and needs more regular cleaning.
(Biological) (you save a lot of extra work in this order)

Chemical, some people use carbon etc, this has very fine pores, only the cleanest water should make it here otherwise you reduce the useful life considerably. Other pH adjustment resins etc. are also placed here. (Optional filter floss) that's used to keep the final stage from introducing fine particulates back into the tank. Carbon for example can give off a fine dust for a short time.

Everybody has a different view! this is mine.

Thank you for the info!

So what would make most sense would be to place filters in the top such as these?
http://www.fluvalaquatics.com/ca/product/A237-306406-filter-bio-foam/#.WPLlA4H3aEc


Bio balls/ tubes in the middle like these?

http://www.fluvalaquatics.com/ca/product/A1456-biomax/#.WPLmTYH3aEc


And I was thinking in the bottom I could do carbon sitting on top of some polishing pads?

http://www.fluvalaquatics.com/ca/product/A1492-zeo-carb/#.WPLm2oH3aEc


http://www.fluvalaquatics.com/ca/product/A244-polishing-pad/#.WPLmr4H3aEc


Hopefully that all makes sense

 

[J.Mcpeak]

Er, I think the 305 is the same as but bigger version of the 205.
Input side has long sponges x4 in a vertical tray. Then it comes up the opposite side in 3 stacked trays one of which has a subdivided insert.

The sponges that come with the filter are fine for mechanical, you could/can get different porosity/density sponges but the one that you have will last several years.

The stacked tray side work from the bottom up. The top one with the lid on is the output/tank return.
Starting from the bottom.......
Normal tray with floss.
Normal tray with biological media.
Tray with insert and lid. Then you can add carbon in a bag and put a little extra floss in the insert.

The ready made fine pads are insanely expensive when compared to a bag of filter wool.
https://www.aquaristikshop.com/aquaristic/JBL-Symec/125182/?gl=GB&gclid=CLSDuLulq9MCFUeeGwods1oFaw

A bag like this lasts me 18+ months (depending on what fish I have)
And I run 4 filters with it. 2xFX5 and 2x205 fluvals.

I tend to use carbon only if I'm medicating (after meds only, not during!)
It's not really necessary full time......but that's just my opinion. I bought a 1000g tub back in the last decade......I still have most of it. Water changes do the same thing.

Your sponges will count as bio foam, the tank substrate will also play a part.
Honestly don't think you need bio sponges.
Look for sintered glass or ceramic bio media, I like Rena stars. They've lasted me years and years. I recently started using seachem matrix but I haven't had it long enough to comment, yes it works.....perfectly fine.

 

[nomad1212]

Er, I think the 305 is the same as but bigger version of the 205.
Input side has long sponges x4 in a vertical tray. Then it comes up the opposite side in 3 stacked trays one of which has a subdivided insert.

The sponges that come with the filter are fine for mechanical, you could/can get different porosity/density sponges but the one that you have will last several years.

The stacked tray side work from the bottom up. The top one with the lid on is the output/tank return.
Starting from the bottom.......
Normal tray with floss.
Normal tray with biological media.
Tray with insert and lid. Then you can add carbon in a bag and put a little extra floss in the insert.

The ready made fine pads are insanely expensive when compared to a bag of filter wool.
https://www.aquaristikshop.com/aquaristic/JBL-Symec/125182/?gl=GB&gclid=CLSDuLulq9MCFUeeGwods1oFaw

A bag like this lasts me 18+ months (depending on what fish I have)
And I run 4 filters with it. 2xFX5 and 2x205 fluvals.

I tend to use carbon only if I'm medicating (after meds only, not during!)
It's not really necessary full time......but that's just my opinion. I bought a 1000g tub back in the last decade......I still have most of it. Water changes do the same thing.

Your sponges will count as bio foam, the tank substrate will also play a part.
Honestly don't think you need bio sponges.
Look for sintered glass or ceramic bio media, I like Rena stars. They've lasted me years and years. I recently started using seachem matrix but I haven't had it long enough to comment, yes it works.....perfectly fine.

My mistake I was thinking the water came from top to bottom. So basically what I said only flipped?

To my understanding the 305 is the older version of the current Fluval 306

So it looks like you suggest that the square foam on the side of the trays is enough mechanical?

And placing polishing pads in the bottom tray should get the rest?

In the middle it looks like Bio-max is fine? But you suggest I go with Sintered glass like the seachem matrix because it's more effective.

And finally the top tray, before the water exits should be a polishing pad with carbon or zero-chem ontop?

thanks for the help

 

[J.Mcpeak]

My mistake I was thinking the water came from top to bottom. So basically what I said only flipped?

To my understanding the 305 is the older version of the current Fluval 306

So it looks like you suggest that the square foam on the side of the trays is enough mechanical?

And placing polishing pads in the bottom tray should get the rest?

In the middle it looks like Bio-max is fine? But you suggest I go with Sintered glass like the seachem matrix because it's more effective.

And finally the top tray, before the water exits should be a polishing pad with carbon or zero-chem ontop?

thanks for the help

No worries, thanks for the thanks!

Yes, the flow on these is IN down one side (sponges) and up the other (multi tray) OUT.

Yes exactly, the 305 is the older version, most of the spares are the same.
206 bits fit my 205 sponges o rings etc. ....good thinking Hagen! I think it's just a more economical pump and a different outer case.

Yeah, those long vertical sponges, that's all I run. (Have done since 2005) changed density and the layout a few times but, the short answer, yup, they'll be fine.

Yes, polishing pad WILL get the rest, you'll see the filter output slow up a bit as it gets clogged. The polish pad (or wool) will stop the filter if completely blocked solid. You can rinse and reuse these a few times before they start falling apart. Long term, the floss is cheaper and after a few goes at teasing it into the tray, it is just as effective.

(Hagen)Bio max is good, works well. That's the stuff that comes with the filter. I changed that to Rena stars but not due to failure. Am now using matrix, in my 205 filters because I pinched the Rena stars as they fit quite nicely into the old style internal Fluval 1, 2+ and 3+ filters. (All of my filters are Hagen!)
The one series needs the sponge cutting but the others, they just slip between the sponges, each Rena star is rated at something like 50litres volume per star!

I can't say matrix is more effective, it isn't any worse, I wish I had the means and time to conduct proper testing........

The final tray would have a polish pad last thing IF you use one. Just to take any fine particulates that may leave the carbon sock (or the bio max) out of the water.
Again, not really necessary, you can pre rinse carbon, it's just a safety barrier but you lose a bit of flow if you're packed to the gills in the filter.

All I run 99.9% of the time is sponges, floss and biological (whatever type).

 

[nomad1212]

No worries, thanks for the thanks!

Yes, the flow on these is IN down one side (sponges) and up the other (multi tray) OUT.

Yes exactly, the 305 is the older version, most of the spares are the same.
206 bits fit my 205 sponges o rings etc. ....good thinking Hagen! I think it's just a more economical pump and a different outer case.

Yeah, those long vertical sponges, that's all I run. (Have done since 2005) changed density and the layout a few times but, the short answer, yup, they'll be fine.

Yes, polishing pad WILL get the rest, you'll see the filter output slow up a bit as it gets clogged. The polish pad (or wool) will stop the filter if completely blocked solid. You can rinse and reuse these a few times before they start falling apart. Long term, the floss is cheaper and after a few goes at teasing it into the tray, it is just as effective.

(Hagen)Bio max is good, works well. That's the stuff that comes with the filter. I changed that to Rena stars but not due to failure. Am now using matrix, in my 205 filters because I pinched the Rena stars as they fit quite nicely into the old style internal Fluval 1, 2+ and 3+ filters. (All of my filters are Hagen!)
The one series needs the sponge cutting but the others, they just slip between the sponges, each Rena star is rated at something like 50litres volume per star!

I can't say matrix is more effective, it isn't any worse, I wish I had the means and time to conduct proper testing........

The final tray would have a polish pad last thing IF you use one. Just to take any fine particulates that may leave the carbon sock (or the bio max) out of the water.
Again, not really necessary, you can pre rinse carbon, it's just a safety barrier but you lose a bit of flow if you're packed to the gills in the filter.

All I run 99.9% of the time is sponges, floss and biological (whatever type).

Great

thank again for all the advice it helped a lot.

I think what I plan on doing bottom to top is:

Polishing pads/filter floss
Biomax/rena star or seachem matrix
carbon/zerocarb

and then if I notice there's some carbon leaking I'll add some floss to the carbon tray.

I was wondering what you suggest for the bio media? It seems like you've used all types, can you suggest one over the other or do they all seem to do the job? For goldfish maybe one is more effective?

I feel like leaning towards the seachem matrix

 

[J.Mcpeak]

Matrix has the potential to remove nitrate.
(you could possibly achieve that with other media in the correct set up.)

Rena stars float. 95% or more of matrix sinks.

I like the stuff that floats! Makes it easier when it spills in a bucket! Which it will.
Ceramic balls sink and I think biomax sinks but can't remember for sure as it was a long time ago.

Biologically, they've all maintained the tanks, converting ammonia to nitrate as you would expect.

For ease I'd say Rena. 4-5 stars will do for most tanks. A large box (if they still do them) will easily do several filters. Again, dealing with a small amount of media makes it easier at cleaning time (time to rinse the bio stuff) vs a handful of pieces that usually sink!