Got my API kit; first test results!

[Mokapi]

High pH: 8.2 (I think)
Ammonia: .25 ppm
Nitrite: Between 2 and 5 ppm
Nitrate: Between 20 and 40 ppm

I haven't done my nightly 50% water change, but I usually do. Should I run the tests again a few minutes after I change the water?

What do these levels mean? I take it most of them are bad. /:

 

[bruinsbro1997]

Uh-oh! That means your tank isn't fully cycled! That nitrites level is bad news! It should be at 0! I would do a huge water change to bring it down ASAP.

 

[Mokapi]

Yep, I know it's not I didn't take the time to cycle the tank- I had him in a bowl, so the night I got it, I set it up and put him in. I've been doing nightly water changes for at least a week and a half now (probably longer, I've been doing it every night since I was told to by members on here LOL). I use tap water and Prime. It's a 3.5 gallon tank with a betta.

 

[jlk]

Good job on getting a decent test kit!! Yes, those numbers mean lot of water changes-ideally, you want to get the ammonia & nitrite as close to zero as possibile & have your nitrate less than 20ppm. You should also check your tap water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph as well. This will give you an idea of what exactly you are putting in your tank. My city water (depending on the day of the wk) sometimes has .25 amm & nitrates from 5 to 30ppm, so its def worth checking!

 

[steez]

Lots of water changes in your future.

I would test morning/night. Do water changes if you have a trace of ammonia or nitrite.

This process will probably take a while, but it's the hard part. It becomes easier once the tank has cycled, promise


I was doing 2x water changes a day on my 20g when I first learned about cycling for about a month

 

[librarygirl]

Hi and welcome. You'll probably need to do larger and/or more frequent water changes. What size tank and what fish? With nitrite at 2 and ammonia at .25 (borderline) I suggest doing a few 50% water changes back to back ASAP. You want to get nitrite and ammonia <.25 and keep it there. I suggest testing twice daily and any time you get an ammonia or nitrite reading, do a 50% water change. If the levels are higher (over .5) you'll need to do a few back-to-back changes. You don't want to let the fish swim in ammonia or nitrite as both are very toxic to the fish. There's a link in my signature: new tank with fish. It'll guide you through. Good luck!

 

[Mokapi]

Sorry for the break in replying. Simply haven't had the time...):

I did another water test just a few minutes ago, which was right after a 70% water change. I typically take out about 2 gallons now (it's a 3.5g tank). Levels are better IMO.

High pH: 7.4
Ammonia: .25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20

Here in a little while I'll test my actual water and post those results. Are these good numbers because the quality of the tank water is improving, or because I JUST changed the water? I'll do another check tonight, before the next water change.

 

[jlk]

Let us know how your tap water looks & we will have a better idea! You may have some ammonia or nitrates present in your tap but these numbers are def improvement over the last set you posted! Keep up the good work with testing & water changes!

 

[librarygirl]

Definitely looks better but b/c it's after a water change it's hard to tell. Test before water changes so you can get an idea of what's going on in the tank. The test will also tell you if you need to do a water change and how large.

 

[Mokapi]

OKAY, just ran a test on the tap and the aquariun water. I'll do a water change after I get this typed out.

TAP:

High pH: 7.4 (possibly slightly higher)
Ammonia: .25
Nitrite: Weird number...not quite 0, but definitely not .25
Nitrate: 20

AQUARIUM:

High pH: 8.0
Ammonia: In between 0 and .25
Nitrite: 0!
Nitrate: 20? Little more than 20, but definitely not 40.

What should I learn from these numbers?

 

[jlk]

It means your doing a good job with what you have taking care of your fish! The ammonia/nitrite in your tap will be converted by your bacteria & the use of a good water conditioner (one that detoxes ammonia/nitrite/nitrate) will help keep these levels from affecting your fish when you do water changes. The nitrate in your tap means this is the lowest level you will be able to reach in your tank. A good water conditioner will help with this too. Plants also use nitrates so they may be something you want to consider to help naturally lower the nitrate levels. Once your tank is fully cycled, you will want to consider more frequent water changes as well (2-3x wk) to help keep your nitrate levels down (they will jump quickly in a small tank). Your ph is fine as long as it stays stable (no big jumps or drops). I am glad that tank nitrite level is zero today!!

 

[Mokapi]

@jlk: Awesome! I use Prime and do have the tank live planted because the plastic plants I had tore my betta's tail fin. I've got a java fern, anubias, a moss ball, and anacharis in there. I've been doing either one or two water changes daily for the past few weeks (depending on the amount of time I have that day).

 

[Mokapi]

Back again...these are the numbers after the water hadn't been changed for 3 days (my own experiment, LOL, it's since been changed):

pH: 8.2
Ammonia: <.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: > 20

The ammonia wasn't quite zero, but wasn't quite .25. The nitrate wasn't exactly 20, but wasn't 40.

 

[librarygirl]

Back again...these are the numbers after the water hadn't been changed for 3 days (my own experiment, LOL, it's since been changed):

pH: 8.2
Ammonia: <.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: > 20

The ammonia wasn't quite zero, but wasn't quite .25. The nitrate wasn't exactly 20, but wasn't 40.

Looks good! You may be cycled but it's hard to tell. The .25 is probably from your tap water BUT if the tank was truly cycled the biofilter should consume that ammonia pretty quickly. I've found it's hard to tell the difference between 0 and .25 on the API kit. What you can do is test some spring water and then compare the tube to you tank's test. If they match, then your tank is really 0 ammonia.

 

[Mokapi]

I think I'm cycled- haven't changed the water in a week; I tested it and read 8.2 pH, .25 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 20 nitrates

 

[jlk]

You should consider picking up some distilled water & testing that for ammonia & comparing the results to your tank. You may be closer to zero than you realize. Ideally, your tank needs to be at zero ammonia to be considered fully cycled. Things are looking good!