New guy, new tank

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That's a pretty good guide but I don't think it puts enough emphasis on water changes. Water changes can completely control your stocking level. Just keep in mind that you need to do enough water changes to keep the nitrate concentration under 20ppm before a water change.
 
Stocking calculators should be used for entertainment purposes only IMO.

You may want to reconsider the balloon molly. Balloon fish are created by selectively breeding for deformity- bent spines, short bodies, etc. They tend to be less hardy than regular varieties of the same species, don't swim nearly as well, and are easily outcompeted for food. JMO.
 
That's a pretty good guide but I don't think it puts enough emphasis on water changes. Water changes can completely control your stocking level. Just keep in mind that you need to do enough water changes to keep the nitrate concentration under 20ppm before a water change.

Good to know. So I guess then, provided ammonia and nitrites are at 0, and nitrates are below 20, a water change can be done when it reaches 20 ppm. Obviously if the water is tested and it reads 18 ppm, it should be changed anyway but is that what you're saying? If I only have say 6 fish in the 29 gallon to start, and it takes 3 weeks for the nitrates to get close to 20 ppm, is it ok to wait those 3 weeks then? Or is it still recommended to do a weekly water change regardless of number of fish and readings?
 
Stocking calculators should be used for entertainment purposes only IMO.

You may want to reconsider the balloon molly. Balloon fish are created by selectively breeding for deformity- bent spines, short bodies, etc. They tend to be less hardy than regular varieties of the same species, don't swim nearly as well, and are easily outcompeted for food. JMO.

I don't need the balloon molly, but my wife loves them. Maybe if I provide her with this information, she'll change her mind. But maybe not.
 
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Here's my empty tank. Don't mind the TV in the background...
 
I would say that weekly water changes are ideal, at least 25%. But if that is not enough to keep the nitrate concentration under 20ppm they should be larger and/or more frequent. the lower the nitrate concentration the higher the water quality (in general).

I think the only exceptions would be a well planted tank with few fish, in which case I would say 10% weekly is minimum.
 
Not to say the order matters much with these paticular fish, but if it were me I would add the molly and platy first, the tetras next, then the cories, and last the gourami. Then once everyone has been in for a month or so and you've been testing the water regularly you'll probably have a feel for whether or not it's okay to add the glofish. I believe you'll be just fine to add everyone on your list without upgrading anything, but I understand not everyone agrees with me :)
 
I love my lyretail balloon molly..he's sooo purdy! When I insisted on getting him my husband thought he was majorly wierd and lame, but I have a soft spot for them :) If you can find a lyretail I think they are much more attractive than the standard balloons. I have the same tank set up as yours and the calculator says I'm slightly overstocked...of course this is not the gospel but fun to use..I do 30% water change every week and my nitrates never exceed 20ppm, but I have lots of live plants in there which helps out some. Oh and that is exactly the castle I thought you probably had :)
 
My balloon molly is crazy, i have never seen him stop moving. And thank you siva for letting me know that aparently balloons and lyretails are interbreedable(always assumed they where). Now i definately know that i can expet more frys than a fastfood restaurant.
 
Not to say the order matters much with these paticular fish, but if it were me I would add the molly and platy first, the tetras next, then the cories, and last the gourami. Then once everyone has been in for a month or so and you've been testing the water regularly you'll probably have a feel for whether or not it's okay to add the glofish. I believe you'll be just fine to add everyone on your list without upgrading anything, but I understand not everyone agrees with me :)

Ok, that sounds like a good plan. How much time should be in between each addition of fish? Say I add the molly and platy when the tank is cycled, can I go out the next weekend and pick up the tetras? I figure if the tank is cycled, it should be able to easily handle the bio load of the first 2 fish. So it is pretty much ready to take on another group, the tetras. But then I would guess that watching the water through ammonia, nitrites and nitrates would then determine when I am safe to go out for the next group. Is this a good assumption?

Oh yeah, and I love the castle. A little pricey, yes, but I had to have it. The wife usually hates castles and what not, but SHE actually picked the castle out. What a pleasant surprise!

And now, for no apparent reason, a madman firing a rocket at somebody celebrating their birthday.

:zook::bday:
 
LOL
I like the volcano too...I've debated getting one of those. Yeah just wait atleast a few days in between fish and test the water :)
 
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