Next Lighting Step up from Basic

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Skazi

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
11
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Hi, I have a 20g high, which I bought as a kit, and it came with a standard 15W bulb. Not sure about any specs, but it is the normal, 2 prong bulb.

I had a minorly planted tank (2-3 plants) before, and the plants seems anemic.

What is the next step up in lighting?

I saw a 65W Satellite setup for $65 online. However, I think I would need CO2 with that, and I want to move in baby steps.

The LFS recommended a 15W, but with 10K, which I believe is something to do with colors? Not sure what that would do for plants ...

One other question: the Satellite setup seems to sit on feet above the tank, leaving the water exposed. Should there be a cover over the water? I currently have a full hood.
 
Are you looking to go high, medium anytime soon or do you want to stay low tech? What kind of plant do you want to keep, low, moderate or high?
A high tank tankes a bit more light than a shallow tank to get the same light to the bottom. A twin or triple NO flourescent will work just fine for anything but a high tech/high light planted tank. Another option is a Compact Fluorescent Brite Kit from A H Supply. They have a great reputation for quality products and customer service.

My experience is with low tech and more natural tanks, no CO2 or high light plants.

The Satellite or similar light is made for open water. Be cautious about getting fish that jump. A glss canopy is good for a twin/triple tube strip light.
 
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Actually Satelite and other Compact Flourescent Fixtures can be used over covered aquariums, you just have to replace that "deluxe" hood with a Glass Canopy.

I agree that if you want to stick to a non CO2 aquarium, then a twin or triple tube flourescent strip light is going to be your best bet. That bulb that your LFS recommend won't make much difference at all to the plants and make your aquarium look more blue. While some bulbs are slightly more efficient than others, adding more bulbs will get you a lot further in the long run.

With better lighting you'll probably need to start dosing Traces and Potassium (the nutrients that are normally not in sufficient supply between your tap water and fish waste). I'd recommend looking at Flourish (Comprehensive) and Flourish Potassium as good starter ferts.
 
I use Fourish Excel to add carbon source. Natural Aquarium Vital is a simailar product but I don't know if it works as well as Excel.
 
Cool, thanks for the input. I'm thinking something like this now:

Aqualight with Colormax & 6700k Fluorescent T-5 Lamps - 14W - 24 in.

That will have 28 watts total, so I don't think I'll need to mess with CO2 immediately.

Will I be able to replace the bulbs with higher wattage, or will I need to move to CF to proceed further? Just thinking long term.

Do most people use a glass canopy? The benefits seem to be that it slows evaporation, and keeps fish from jumping out. Would it hinder air exchange at the water surface?
 
28 watts will limit the plants to low light especially with the depth of the tank.

These will accept T-8, T-10 & T-12 bulbs: All-Glass Twin-Tube Black Fluorescent Strip Lights Which will give you more WPG than T-5's, is more flexible and allows for more types of plants. It also comes in Oak.

I have a 36" triple tube (75W) over my 30L that takes only T-5's. I got a very good price on that (ebay goof LOL) but I would have been better going with a AG twin tube.

I'm not sure about Coral life products in general so I can't comment on quality. AG makes good stuff as far as I'm concerned.
 
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Thanks again. That AG dual tube looks pretty good. At least at that web vendor, 18" bulbs only come in T-8, and only seem to come in 15W. So, I think I would be limited to 30W.

That is OK with me, though.

Do you have yours heightened above the glass canopy, or sitting directly on it?
 
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