Phosphates.....

[HiJaC]

Hi,

I'm still scratching my head with ways to deal with my BBA. My latest experiment is to lower my PO4.

My local water is loaded with the stuff, running over 5 mg/l ie off my test kit and the ones in the LFS.

So to reduce it down to 0.5/1 mg/l ive stuck in some nice granules in my filter canister.

Being it was a little experiment to get the correct amount needed, especially since they do expire over time and through heavy use.

In a few days the amount of phosphates is down to 0.5 to 1. Which was my target range.

I'm doing a water change today so I imagine it will work its way up again.

I'll see where I can balance it out.

The unforseen net result is the fish. They are so much more active then before. Seeming very happy all of a sudden.

Does a high level of phosphate effect fish at all? or am I just seeing an effect of the removal of the Bio-chem zorb carbon pack from one of the canisters increasing the water movement a touch?

Thanks,

John

 

[7Enigma]

I've never seen a corrolation between phosphate levels and fish activity (normal ranges of phosphates that is), so I doubt it has anything to do with that. Most fish will get more active after a PWC for a variety of reasons (re-establishing territories, temp change of the water, removal of organic buildup especially in neglected tanks).

As for your phosphate level, it is pretty well excepted that higher phosphate levels do NOT cause algae such as BBA. Normally free ammonia, and or low/fluctuating CO2 is the cause.

If you have DIY CO2 add more bottles to create a more consistent injection, if not you might need to add some depending on your light level.

Do a dilution of your tap water to find out what the phosphate level is. (ie put one shot of distilled water and 1 shot of tap water, mix and measure) If that is still too high do 1:3 or 1:4. High phosphate levels are normally associated with groundwater contamination. This is often seen in agricultural areas (where runoff gets into your well) or old piping that develops cracks with roots and other stuff getting into the water supply. I would be hesitant to drink this water if the phosphate level is high for fear of OTHER contaminants being in the water supply.

 

[HiJaC]

Hi,

I'm using pressurized CO2 so my levels are better constant (and high). My calibrated ph monitor is reading between 6.35 and 6.6 ph a day.

My light is only 2x24w T5's with HO plant bulbs with new reflectors, over my 46GA. A vague estimate would be about 2 wpg.

The phosphate levels in the water are due to the tap water in Edinburgh which sits between 2.5 to 5 ppm atm. It is very soft and comes from the lochs in the hills around edinburgh, which are fed from agricultural land (mostly sheep farming). But is considered very good drinking water.

I was sceptical when my LFS guy suggested that the phosphates were the issues causing the algae as I have been reading here for a while, and the commonly held opinion is that BBA and other types are caused by deficiencies not excesses.

I havn't nailed my EI yet. It is still on my to-do list. But what I think is happening is my Nitrates are bottoming out at various points in the week leaving the excessive amounts of phosphates in the tank for the algae to feed on.

But with the large excess of phosphates in the tank I doubt my heavy plant covering is ever going to out-compete the algae feeding on that specific excess. I figure what my LFS guy was getting at was - reduce the excess and allow the plants to do the rest.

Current plan - getting in the excel this week to blast it out and then EI to sort my dosing.

John

 

[7Enigma]

Any heavily effected leaves with BBA should be removed. The rest can be spot treated with the Excel (just make sure all your plants are compatible).

My tap water has several ppm phosphate in it as well and my tank water reads off the chart on any given day. I just ignore that test kit (I no longer use it) and continue to dose small amounts of phosphate every other day and have not had the BBA come back (about a year ago I had a bout of it). Trying to remove "excess" should not be a concern.

But get some nitrAte source ASAP! If you are indeed bottoming out on nitrAte you asking for the dreaded BGA, which depending on the strain can be much worse than BBA....

 

[Jchillin]

I'm sorry John, I haven't been paying attention to this aspect (worrying more about where your shrimp disappeared to).

Could you re-post the features of this tank (size, lighting, dosing, etc)?

 

[HiJaC]

tell yer what, ill start a new thread because i need to sort my dosing out.

As we have touched on here, the phosphates probably an't the issue.

Tbh looking at my bottles of ferts im thinking im lacking potassium.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=101003

Thanks,

John

 

[Purrbox]

I can verify that increased water flow will cause some fish to become more active. My Pygmy Cories love increased flow and are much more active with higher water flow, especially right after I've cleaned out the water pump when the flow is at it's greatest.

 

[HiJaC]

I can verify that increased water flow will cause some fish to become more active. My Pygmy Cories love increased flow and are much more active with higher water flow, especially right after I've cleaned out the water pump when the flow is at it's greatest.

Cool,

That sorts that one out. The bio zorb carbon thingy did fill a canister section quite snug-ly. So now its out the whole thing is working better.

I'm going to dump the phosphate absorbing granules now im on the way to dosing correctly, should i just put another layer of the mechanical filtration in the spare canister section? (its three tiers after the sponges).

John