Question on lighting

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Kaneu

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
Messages
208
Location
Northern Utah
So i see discriptions on lighting and plants and they say, medium to high light. Or low light. Well how much light is too much light? And what is a good way to measure it? Would investing in a PAR meter br a good idea or us that over kill? Does anyone have any good guidance or infirmation or a link they can provide? I have been doing alot of research but am still fairly unsure what exactly I am needing.
I have a 75g with 3 LED lights on it right now but im pretty sure this is over kill. I was informed that i needed at least 3 finnex 24/7 planted+ fixtures in order to achive "high" lighting for carpet plants to grow correctly. But after adding the lights, upping the ferts and co2, im beginning to think it was a bad idea and planning to scale way back. But how far back should i go? Down to one light at full power? 2 lights at half how to more evenly spread the light? Im just wondering if anyone has any knowledge with the terms "high" and "medium" lighting and what you need to do to achive this.
Thanks in advance.
 
a par meter is very useful and would be the best way to figure out how much light you actually have at the substrate. 3 planted+ sounds like alot to me. i would think 2 would put you in the upper medium-high light range. with par i think its 30 par is low light, 50-70 is medium light and 70-100 par is high light. i wish i had links ready but you can google par readings that others have done with your exact lights to see where you would fall.
 
a par meter is very useful and would be the best way to figure out how much light you actually have at the substrate. 3 planted+ sounds like alot to me. i would think 2 would put you in the upper medium-high light range. with par i think its 30 par is low light, 50-70 is medium light and 70-100 par is high light. i wish i had links ready but you can google par readings that others have done with your exact lights to see where you would fall.
Ok that is good to know. Maybe ill have to purchase a par meter as i want to make sure im in a good range. I have googled par ratings and found people doing it with my light. But they dont do my tank. And ever tank is different. So its hard to eyeball what my par would be.
 
Ok that is good to know. Maybe ill have to purchase a par meter as i want to make sure im in a good range. I have googled par ratings and found people doing it with my light. But they dont do my tank. And ever tank is different. So its hard to eyeball what my par would be.

Honestly I don't use a par meter. I watch the plants. The plants growth will tell you everything you need to know. I know for someone new or newer to planted tanks this may seem difficult but its a better way to understand what's going on with your plants then any par meter could ever signify. People all the time read post that say oh if you have 100 par everything will grow great for you and then they don't. Watch for changes in color, holes in the leaves, curling of leaves, slow growth and much more. They all show different issues the plant is having. Learning this does come with time and attention and by no means do I have a complete understanding of plants but just watching has really helped me. Not saying par or par meters are completely useless but don't think just because you are in the medium to high par range that it solves all your issues.
 
Sometimes they put PAR readings on websites?

PAR meter useful and have used but-

algae - high light relative ferts/CO2 deficiency.

Good - plants spreading at base and not climbing for the sky. Lower leaves look good.

Low light - no / slow growth (same as low tech tank).
 
Sometimes they put PAR readings on websites?

PAR meter useful and have used but-

algae - high light relative ferts/CO2 deficiency.

Good - plants spreading at base and not climbing for the sky. Lower leaves look good.

Low light - no / slow growth (same as low tech tank).
That is a really go way to look at it. I am watching my tank closely and seeing alot of changes. But i do need to remember to slow it down some and maybe not act so much. I will be taking off my aqua edge light as i do believe that is over kill with light. I think 2 finnex 24/7 planted + lights should be more than adequate for growing staurogyne repens. With lights on max for 7 hours and on total for about 12 (using sunrise and sunset feature that i can fully customize). I will have to continue to watch and see how things change.

This hobby is so rewarding but man on man does it challenge you to the core with being in today's world were instant gradification is a real problem.
 
Hello Kaneu...

There are quite a number of aquarium plants that require no more than standard shop lighting from the local hardware store. You really need to decide on what plants you want and then set up the lighting those particular plants need. Specifically, plants like Hornwort, Anacharis, Water sprite, Cryptocoryne, Pennywort, Water lettuce, Banana plants and Java fern, just to name a few, will grow fine in low to moderate light and don't require CO2 or dosing of any kind. You just feed the fish a balanced diet and they supply the fertilizer.

B
 
That is a really go way to look at it. I am watching my tank closely and seeing alot of changes. But i do need to remember to slow it down some and maybe not act so much. I will be taking off my aqua edge light as i do believe that is over kill with light. I think 2 finnex 24/7 planted + lights should be more than adequate for growing staurogyne repens. With lights on max for 7 hours and on total for about 12 (using sunrise and sunset feature that i can fully customize). I will have to continue to watch and see how things change.

This hobby is so rewarding but man on man does it challenge you to the core with being in today's world were instant gradification is a real problem.



True, constantly get caught making multiple changes. Have to make a change and give it a few weeks unfortunately. I found that plants growing slowly on one side was from not having good flow for CO2.
 
True, constantly get caught making multiple changes. Have to make a change and give it a few weeks unfortunately. I found that plants growing slowly on one side was from not having good flow for CO2.
So here is a question regarding CO2, i want to switch to the fluval fx4 but they have that stupid special ribbed hosing so adding any type of diffuser in-line is going to be a DIY project. But will probably really hinder the flow of the filter anyway. So would placing a glass diffuser right below the intake of the filter be a good idea? This would give it plenty of time and space to diffuse within the media and length of travel before going back to the tank.
Also the fx has a purge air function that kicks on and off periodically, so there is good reassurance that all CO2 would eventually make it back to the tank. Does anyone have any thoghts on this?
 
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