Tap Water

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Readingexcalibur

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
1,305
Location
Las Vegas
I am using tap water with my fish only. Have cheato in the sump and I am not measuring a whole lot if phosphates.

If I am using .06 LEDs an measuring a grand total of 3.6w of light for the whole tank (low light for my lion). Given the slightly informative variables. Do you think this is a problem (algae, ect). I've read previous threads on why tap w/ declor is bad. But a low light situation may not create an issue. I do not have and Trates/ammonia in my water per API master test kit.

As always, i appreciate your input and wanted to thank you in advance. My reef tank gets RO/di but algae is a bear in that thing otherwise (thank you emerald crabs for cleaning it out)haha.
 
A lot of folks have success using tap water, especially in a FO tank.
 
I personally think that Tap in a FO should be OK. The only problem is that tap water does have lots of nitrates in it. You might not see it in your tests because it is using it up as fast as you are putting it in there. Believe me that they are in tap. I work for a large water municipality and know what it takes to purify water. If you are having algea problems then I would start using walmart RO water or get a RODI unit.
 
Thank you, I have an RO/DI unit. The reason I choose not to use it is because I live in the desert. Not only is water expensive and the RO unit has 1-3 ratio. But also it's extremely hard water and the membrane and di doesn't last very long at all. I use it on my 30g nano reef.
 
fort384 said:
A lot of folks have success using tap water, especially in a FO tank.

Yeah, I keep hearing mixed reviews so I want to be sure. I understand why pure water is more important.
 
I use tap water in my fowlr tank. We have the worst water in the state. When I do my water changes every two weeks my nitrates are around 40 ppm
 
jones1483 said:
I use tap water in my fowlr tank. We have the worst water in the state. When I do my water changes every two weeks my nitrates are around 40 ppm

Hey Jones, I have the same situation here in Southern Indiana.
 
What do you consider a lot of phosphates. If given the nutrients algae will grow with any light what so ever. Doesnt matter how dim they are.

Your tap could very well be the source of phosphates.
 
Schism said:
What do you consider a lot of phosphates. If given the nutrients algae will grow with any light what so ever. Doesnt matter how dim they are.

Your tap could very well be the source of phosphates.

Hey schism! Well at this point, my sump which is running a uv light for the cheato is covered in diatom on the sand bed. However, the display tank with the cheapest leds money can buy has 0 algae. This to me would suggest that the lights play a huge role.

Are you saying that it is only a matter of time before the algae comes? I know I have a good amount of phosphates in my tap. I did an emergency WC on my reef once, and I had a huge hairline bloom.
 
Readingexcalibur said:
Hey schism! Well at this point, my sump which is running a uv light for the cheato is covered in diatom on the sand bed. However, the display tank with the cheapest leds money can buy has 0 algae. This to me would suggest that the lights play a huge role.

Are you saying that it is only a matter of time before the algae comes? I know I have a good amount of phosphates in my tap. I did an emergency WC on my reef once, and I had a huge hairline bloom.

Well im sure your sump has less light than your display. But i would say the algae bloom in your sump is absorbing the nutrients before algae in your tank gets the chance right now, but that can easily change. There are things you can do to easily lower the phosphate even with the tap you are using like GFO.

Any significant phosphate will spur algae growth.

Ive grown handfuls of hair algae in a dark room that only got sporadic fluorescent lights from the room light on the ceiling. It only takes a bit of stray light to grow algae. However i would imagine if you switch to different lighting you would have a huge problem on your hand.

I would either switch to RO or atleast get a gfo reactor or some phosphate binding additive/media so it cant bind to form algae.

I would do something atleast before it took real hold of the whole system.
 
Readingexcalibur said:
Cool, I'm off to research the reactor. RO membrane here last about 3-4 months. Can't afford it anymore lol.

? 2-4 months? Are you running prefilters like a sediment and carbon block filters? If not thats probably the problem there. In any case never heard of such poor performance.

And for the reactor check out bulkreefsupply.com they make one for about $35 if memory serves me right. Only other need components are a maxijet to run the reactor and a quality media. Pretty simple really
 
Yeah, I have a 6 stage RODI from filterdirect. I am running pre filters. The tap here is extremely hard because it is pumped in from lake mead on a 65 mile journey threw the desert and to me on the north side of las Vegas. It's all full of sediment, ect.
 
Readingexcalibur said:
Yeah, I have a 6 stage RODI from filterdirect. I am running pre filters. The tap here is extremely hard because it is pumped in from lake mead on a 65 mile journey threw the desert and to me on the north side of las Vegas. It's all full of sediment, ect.

If thats the case a water softener would probably be extremely beneficial to your home.

But also just curious how you reach the conclusion your membrane needs replaced.
 
The phosphates start climbing from the "pure" water sample. I have often considered a water softener. However, I am in the military. That's a lot of money considering I am only renting lol. Praying my next station is somewhere with softer water! Ha
 
Readingexcalibur said:
The phosphates start climbing from the "pure" water sample. I have often considered a water softener. However, I am in the military. That's a lot of money considering I am only renting lol. Praying my next station is somewhere with softer water! Ha

Ah yeah that would be hard. Well im sure you could organize a sea water rescue mission with your CO lol. Jk

Anyways. By the pure sample do you mean that the tank is the source of the phosphates or the starting water?

If it were the tank then that would be completely solvable.
 
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