African Cichlid Setup

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bugeyefireguy

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Messages
36
Location
Wilmington, NC
I am in the process of putting together a 55gal Mbuna tank. I was thinking of stocking with Yellow Labs x4, Cynotilapia Afra x4, and Red Peacock x4. I love the color of the Afra but am worried about its size in relation to the peacocks and Yellow labs. What are your thoughts? I am open to suggestions since I can order stuff from the LFS as long as I have the money.
Edit:
After doing some reading, I have decided that the afra nor the peacocks will work with the labs. It looks like yellow labs, red zebras and blue zebras 1m:3f ratio are going to be the way to go.
 
If I were you and I wanted to do a mbuna tank I would do just that. Not add zebras or peacocks or any of the other Malawis. The best way to do a mbuna tank in my opinion is get like I said pure mbunas then throw in a pair of frontosas and a few catfish and a pleco. You'll have such a pretty tank this way.

My mbuna tank is 4 yellow tail acei, 3 snowflake, 2 blue powder and about 8 yellow labs. I also have a huge pleco and 3 eclipse cats. My frontosa will be in this weekend or so and then ill just add rare or pretty mbunas until I reach my 75 gallon goal. My acei baby's just got moved to the grow out, so ill soon add a few more yellowtails aswell. I like the calmness my tank keeps, there's no fighting and territory battles it's just 4 diff schools of fish circling and moving in packs with the occasional mass pack moving. So relaxing. As you can tell I'm watching them as I typed this and it's long winded lol
 
My LFS has 2 males pushing 15" thats almost 1/3 rd of a 4 foot tank. They were turned in due to their size. Wish I could have them their awesome!
 
I have to disagree, although a 55 gallon wouldn't support him. Didn't notice the 55 gallon part.

Frontosa get at minimum 15" and need to be kept in large groups. How exactly are they suppose to kept in a 4' tank? That's has to be the most ignorant advice I've ever seen.
 
They don't have to be kept in large groups either. Do more research pls. Name calling is elementary aswell. On topic almost every Malawi tank that's 75gallons+ has either one male frontosa or a pair. And after all the research and talking with a lot of LFS about the frontosa 10-13 inches max is a more realistic size. And they are so subtle it's not like they're gonna swim around and around a tank, they'll find a cave and sit until feeding time.
 
They don't have to be kept in large groups either. Do more research pls. Name calling is elementary aswell. On topic almost every Malawi tank that's 75gallons+ has either one male frontosa or a pair. To be exact alot of the time more then just a pair will fight to the death, unless raised together.

"In the wild, frontosa live in large groups called colonies. In the aquarium, they should also be kept in larger groups, although they can be kept successfully in groups as small as four individuals (1 male:3 females). You'll have the best luck keeping only one adult male, and if your colony is larger, a second, subdominant male who will eventually replace the alpha-male. If you're growing your Fronts up, the "best" method is to acquire 12-15 individuals (all unrelated and from the same race) and put them in a tank of their own."

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/c_frontosa.php

Almost every 75 gallon + Malawi tank has one?! What plant do you even live on? Frontosa are large predators, the second largest cichlids in LAKE TANGANYIKA, the only ones larger are the 36" behemoth Boulengerochromis microlepis. I have no clue how you even comprehend that behind being solid advice. I had a 125 gallon with large lake Malawi Haps and no point did I think "Gee I better add a frontosa because almost every Malawi tank has at least one."

For the record I never called you ignorant just your stocking suggestion, but I'm starting to rethink that. Oh and please try to do more research before you even attempt to call me out on stocking Lake Malawi cichlids, you'll just embarrass yourself.
 
"In the wild, frontosa live in large groups called colonies. In the aquarium, they should also be kept in larger groups, although they can be kept successfully in groups as small as four individuals (1 male:3 females). You'll have the best luck keeping only one adult male, and if your colony is larger, a second, subdominant male who will eventually replace the alpha-male. If you're growing your Fronts up, the "best" method is to acquire 12-15 individuals (all unrelated and from the same race) and put them in a tank of their own."

Cyphotilapia frontosa

Almost every 75 gallon + Malawi tank has one?! What plant do you even live on? Frontosa are large predators, the second largest cichlids in LAKE TANGANYIKA, the only ones larger are the 36" behemoth Boulengerochromis microlepis. I have no clue how you even comprehend that behind being solid advice. I had a 125 gallon with large lake Malawi Haps and no point did I think "Gee I better add a frontosa because almost every Malawi tank has at least one."

For the record I never called you ignorant just your stocking suggestion, but I'm starting to rethink that. Oh and please try to do more research before you even attempt to call me out on stocking Lake Malawi cichlids, you'll just embarrass yourself.


Quick Facts :: Frontosa Cichlid
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Maximum Size: 14"
Minimum Tank Size: 75 Gallons
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Diet: Carnivore
Origin: Lake Tanganyika
Family: Cichlidae
Species: African Cichlid
Aquarium Type: Cichlid-African

Frontosa Cichlid,*Cyphotilapia frontosa*Species Profile, Care Instructions, Feeding and more.**::**Aquarium Domain.com

Frontosa - Quick Aquarium Care
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
Diet Type: Carnivore
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gal (265 L)
Temperature: 74.0 to 79.0° F (23.3 to 26.1° C)
Range ph: 8.0-8.5
Hardness Range: 12 - 15 dGH

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/frontosa.php

QUICK STATS
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Max. Size: 1' 3"
Color Form: Tan, White
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Farm Raised, USA
Family: Cichlidae

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+831+841&pcatid=841

Quick Facts :: Frontosa Cichlid (Cyphotilapia frontosa)
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Maximum Length: 14″
Minimum Aquarium: 250L
Water Conditions: 24-28C, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Lake Tanganyika
Family: Cichlidae
Species: African Cichlid

http://www.hurstvilleaquarium.com.au/?p=2465

I think thats enough references.

I to am using facts bud, so I'll leave the "embarrass yourself" all to you acting foolish here. Dont blow your plumbing over stocking suggestions, this is a friendly forum which is why people join it, not an ego boxing arena. Im sure the next discussion is whos references are harder facts. lol i could careless at this point, this has gone way to far to be "advice". Now if we could stop this "measuring contest" I would like to stay on topic, he asked for suggestions, give him suggestions.
 
Quick Facts :: Frontosa Cichlid
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Maximum Size: 14"
Minimum Tank Size: 75 Gallons
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Diet: Carnivore
Origin: Lake Tanganyika
Family: Cichlidae
Species: African Cichlid
Aquarium Type: Cichlid-African

Frontosa Cichlid,*Cyphotilapia frontosa*Species Profile, Care Instructions, Feeding and more.**::**Aquarium Domain.com

Frontosa - Quick Aquarium Care
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy
Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
Diet Type: Carnivore
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gal (265 L)
Temperature: 74.0 to 79.0° F (23.3 to 26.1° C)
Range ph: 8.0-8.5
Hardness Range: 12 - 15 dGH

Frontosa Cichlid, Cyphotilapia frontosa Humphead Cichlid Fish Guide

QUICK STATS
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Water Conditions: 72-82° F, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Max. Size: 1' 3"
Color Form: Tan, White
Diet: Carnivore
Compatibility: View Chart
Origin: Farm Raised, USA
Family: Cichlidae

Tropical Fish for Freshwater Aquariums: Frontosa Cichlid Tanganyikan African Cichlids

Quick Facts :: Frontosa Cichlid (Cyphotilapia frontosa)
Care Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Maximum Length: 14″
Minimum Aquarium: 250L
Water Conditions: 24-28C, KH 10-20, pH 7.8-9.0
Diet: Carnivore
Range: Lake Tanganyika
Family: Cichlidae
Species: African Cichlid

Frontosa Cichlid - Hurstville Aquarium Hurstville Aquarium

I think thats enough references.

I to am using facts bud, so I'll leave the "embarrass yourself" all to you acting foolish here. Dont blow your plumbing over stocking suggestions, this is a friendly forum which is why people join it, not an ego boxing arena. Im sure the next discussion is whos references are harder facts. lol i could careless at this point, this has gone way to far to be "advice". Now if we could stop this "measuring contest" I would like to stay on topic, he asked for suggestions, give him suggestions.

Well then those links must be factual, especially since they're not allowed to put anything in the Internet that's not true. And your comment that every Malawi tank over 75g has a front or a pair of fonts is hands down the dumbest thing I've heard today, especially since most knowledgable cichlids keepers don't mix Tangs and Malawi!

I'm not sure where your getting your information on Fronts from but your not even close with regards to your information on the social colony that they establish. Oh and by the way since you brought it up mines bigger!
 
Last edited:
I would like to stay on topic, he asked for suggestions, give him suggestions.

Ok fine back on topic, that's not an ideal suggestion and IME I would not put a large predator from another lake in with 3-6" Mbuna.

I would shoot for something along the lines of:

Select any 3 species (max 12-15 fish):
• Metriaclima estherae
• Pseudotropheus saulosi
• Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei"
• Labidochromis sp. "Hongi"
• Labidochromis caeruleus
• Labidochromis sp. "Perlmutt"
• Labidochromis chisimulae
• Iodotropheus sprengerae
• Cynotilapia afra

Note: I would not suggest mixing any Labidochromis species for hybridization and aggression reasons.

Or

Larger, More Aggressive Mbuna Aquarium

Select any 2 groups (max 10-12 fish):
• Labeotropheus trewavasae
• Melanochromis johanni
• Tropheops tropheops
• Pseudotropheus elongatus
• Metriaclima pyrsonotos

Certainly you can substitute some other fish in but this will give you a good jumping off point.
 
Ok fine back on topic, that's not an ideal suggestion and IME I would not put a large predator from another lake in with 3-6" Mbuna.

I would shoot for something along the lines of:

Select any 3 species (max 12-15 fish):
• Metriaclima estherae
• Pseudotropheus saulosi
• Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei"
• Labidochromis sp. "Hongi"
• Labidochromis caeruleus
• Labidochromis sp. "Perlmutt"
• Labidochromis chisimulae
• Iodotropheus sprengerae
• Cynotilapia afra

Note: I would not suggest mixing any Labidochromis species for hybridization and aggression reasons.

Or

Larger, More Aggressive Mbuna Aquarium

Select any 2 groups (max 10-12 fish):
• Labeotropheus trewavasae
• Melanochromis johanni
• Tropheops tropheops
• Pseudotropheus elongatus
• Metriaclima pyrsonotos

Certainly you can substitute some other fish in but this will give you a good jumping off point.

Perfect advice! Stay away from fronts I saw 4 over a foot at my lfs for the last 2 months. Given because they're too big. All the suggestions are great. I'd go w saulosi as a DEFINITE they're awesome looking and temperament wise too. Only really aggressive to each other and I'd do chisumulae and rusty ( sperengerae). Good color mix an if I chose another I'd do cynotilapia white top hara. I have all 4 of these in multiples together and it's great
 
Thanks for all the advice, I'm thinking of red zebras, pseudo saulosi and pseudo acei. Would the two pseudo species have issues with cross breeding? I know that labs can do it I just wasn't sure about any others.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I'm thinking of red zebras, pseudo saulosi and pseudo acei. Would the two pseudo species have issues with cross breeding? I know that labs can do it I just wasn't sure about any others.

Any mbuna can interbreed but its not likely of you have a couple females for a male. He's more likely to court them. I have only had a few fish hold eggs and never have sen a single fry ( I don't try too hard to - I have enough fish!) so I wouldn't worry. If your real goal is to breed just pick 2 types and put bigger groups of those 2
 
I agree and if your goal is to not have crossbreeds just don't try to save the fry, alot of the times they will be gobbled up as soon as the mother spits them if you don't intervene
 
Yea I'm not trying to breed them, I just wanted a good variety of color for the tank. I guess aggression is my main concern. I really liked the acei from the start and once I was learned of the saulosi I figured that would cover my yellow in the tank. I'm shooting for 12 fish, 1 male to 3 females for each species.
 
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