Rams

[DocOck]

I have been told these guys are finicky. So any information would be helpful!


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[Brookster123]

What specifically are your wants and goals. So many variables

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[coralbandit]

If your tank is established(stable),and you have good fish knowledge then these fish are worth trying.
If you or your tank are new then I would wait and learn what you can while your tank matures.
Have you read any links on these fish?
They sure cost enough that a little research may be worthwhile$$.
I breed them because I couldn't keep them(alive) in my 180g DT!

 

[DocOck]

Well I was planning on cycling it for 6 weeks. I have read that they need pretty acidic pH.

I have read that you should start out by feeding them a diversity of things like bloodworms.

Why were yours dying? What makes them so difficult?

I am conducting some of my own research, but to me talking it out is the best!

Thanks


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[DocOck]

My wants and goals are a community tank with happy fish!


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[Brookster123]

A mature tank is your best starting point, stock it slowly and add rams after 6 months.

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[coralbandit]

If I knew why they died in my DT I wouldn't have 200 in my basement.
They are a short lived fish in general IMO(2-3 years).
Most for sale are already in the 6 month old range shortening their time with you/me.
They will tolerate no crap in tank.
Meaning no "bad water issues" or incompatible fish.
IMO they need to #1 like discus.
I think they are best in species only tank,but others do keep them in communities(not me).
I would highly suggest they are added to your tank after 6 months like Brookster said.
Do you have RO water filter?
There aren't too many other ways to lower ph safely.
I raise mine(2 months and up) in ph7.6/ gh10/ kh 3.
Temp should be 80+ for them IMO which limits proper tank mates right there.

 

[Brookster123]

I keep mine with rummynose tetras, green neons, trilineus corys and cory habrosus.
Ph 7.6, temp is 81..

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[PoppaRyno]

I keep mine in 150 planted with discus & tetras. Ph 7.2 temp is 84. Fully planted with black sand and driftwood. I had many problems with them for the first yr. I couldnt keep them alive. I got some from a friend that breeds them, and has a few nice lines going. Not a problem since. IMO quality genetics in rams has alot to do with it as well.

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[PNWaquarist]

I'm not a ram expert or even a tropical fish expert by any stretch, but I've managed to keep my GBRs alive for six months and counting. I have a breeding pair in a South American community tank, with Cardinals, Black Neons, Rummys, and Sterbai Cory. Tank is pH 6.7-6.8, soft water (2.5 dGH), and the temp is 82 F. There are many things to consider...

(1) As mentioned, a mature tank is needed. Most say it should be cycled and stocked with something for at least 6 months. I added my rams after 4 months and they had no problems. I wouldn't suggested adding earlier than that.

(2) Stock quality is probably the most important thing. Don't get them at the local fish store, as many are inbred/pumped up on hormones and possibly diseased as well. Buy from a reputable breeder instead. I got mine from Yunite (germanbluerams.com). If you get them directly from a trustworthy breeder, you can skip the added stress of temporarily housing them in a quarantine tank. Avoid the specialized forms (Gold, Electric Blue, Balloon, etc.), as their genes are less diverse. German Blues and wild-types are the hardiest.

(3) Tank water should be 80-86 F (82-84 is optimal). Cooler water will compromise their immune systems. Nitrate should be as low as reasonably possible (I keep mine under 15 ppm). I've found that Hornwort reduces the nitrate in my tank by about 5 ppm per week. If you have hard water, you'll need to cut it with RO water. I don't know if they're super-fussy about pH, but I imagine that it should be lower than 8. Water hardness and temperature are more important.

(4) Related to (3), the water needs to be very clean. Not super-pristine like discus tanks, but still very clean. That means ~30-50% water changes per week, depending on stocking. I do 2 x 20% water changes every week (which is equivalent to one 36% change).

(5) Tank should have dim lighting, with plenty of hiding places. Based on my experience, they get more skittish as they get older. They like plants and especially caves.

(6) Do not stock two males in the same tank, and do not stock other cichlid species unless you have a large tank (Angels may be OK, though. And, actually, two males may be OK if there are no females present, but I wouldn't recommend any more than one male and one female in a small/medium tank.)

Brookster and coralbandit can add anything I've forgotten. They're somewhat demanding, but I agree that they're worth trying if you're willing to put in the effort.

 

[PNWaquarist]

I keep mine with... green neons...

Ah, so the warning message on AqAdvisor is incorrect?

Warning: German Blue Ram is too aggressive to co-exist with Green Neon Tetra

 

[PoppaRyno]

I'm not a ram expert or even a tropical fish expert by any stretch, but I've managed to keep my GBRs alive for six months and counting. I have a breeding pair in a South American community tank, with Cardinals, Black Neons, Rummys, and Sterbai Cory. Tank is pH 6.7-6.8, soft water (2.5 dGH), and the temp is 82 F. There are many things to consider...

(1) As mentioned, a mature tank is needed. Most say it should be cycled and stocked with something for at least 6 months. I added my rams after 4 months and they had no problems. I wouldn't suggested adding earlier than that.

(2) Stock quality is probably the most important thing. Don't get them at the local fish store, as many are inbred/pumped up on hormones and possibly diseased as well. Buy from a reputable breeder instead. I got mine from Yunite (germanbluerams.com). If you get them directly from a trustworthy breeder, you can skip the added stress of temporarily housing them in a quarantine tank. Avoid the specialized forms (Gold, Electric Blue, Balloon, etc.), as their genes are less diverse. German Blues and wild-types are the hardiest.

(3) Tank water should be 80-86 F (82-84 is optimal). Cooler water will compromise their immune systems. Nitrate should be as low as reasonably possible (I keep mine under 15 ppm). I've found that Hornwort reduces the nitrate in my tank by about 5 ppm per week. If you have hard water, you'll need to cut it with RO water. I don't know if they're super-fussy about pH, but I imagine that it should be lower than 8. Water hardness and temperature are more important.

(4) Related to (3), the water needs to be very clean. Not super-pristine like discus tanks, but still very clean. That means ~30-50% water changes per week. I do 2 x 20% water changes every week (which is equivalent to one 36% change).

(5) Tank should have dim lighting, with plenty of hiding places. Based on my experience, they get more skittish as they get older. They like plants and especially caves.

(6) Do not stock two males in the same tank, and do not stock other cichlid species unless you have a really large tank. (Actually, two males may be OK if there are no females present, but I wouldn't recommend any more than one male and one female in a small/medium tank.)

Brookster and coralbandit can add anything I've forgotten. They're somewhat demanding, but I agree that they're worth trying if you're willing to put in the effort.

+1, well said. I keep 3males and 4 fems in my tank, but its 8 ft long and is fully planted. So plenty of territory. I havent seen the light/skittish issue as mine are surprisingly social. When the lights are full on, the males like to come shake at eachother and then retreat to plants. I get eggs alot from pairs. Even with the 9 discus. I do have a uv sterilizer on this tank, too. Its the only thing i would possibly suggest that wasnt already mentioned.

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