Removing Chlorine/Chloromines from tap water

[Dave Dynasty]

Does anyone understand how chlorine is actually removed from tap water conditioners? I use the product from API, which seems to do a very good job.

I have 240 gallon tank (African cichlids) and when I do a water change, it involves 40-50 gallons. I have a water source directly above the tank, but I don't add the water straight into the tank. Instead, I fill 5 gallon buckets (like you get from Home Depot or Lowe's), where I have a few ml of conditioner inside. I then dump the buckets into the tank.

I'm wondering if I can put the water directly in, while also adding the water conditioner directly to the tank. This would be a lot easier, as I typically have to fill around 10-12 buckets of water, but it seems like the fish may be temporarily exposed to the chlorine. Thoughts?

[dcutl002]

Have you looked into a Python Gravel Vac? It uses your faucet to drain and fill the tank. No buckets. You just need to make sure that you have a removable fitting on your faucet so that the adapter can thread into. Most fittings are standard threads.

[rjpeml]

Re "Removing Chlorines/Chloramines", the advice about using the Python Gravel Vac is appreciated, but still leaves the question un-answered about how/when to add the "de-chlorinating" chemical---before, during, or after the water change----to have a less stressful effect on the "residents".
I have the same question, but was always too ??? to ask. Glad someone finally did and hope someone who has the answer will be kind enough to share.

[dcutl002]

Dose for the whole tank prior to filling with new water with a Python unit. If using buckets, just dose the buckets. The dechlorinator breaks up the molecular bonds of chlorine and chloramine.

[nirbhao]

If you have chloramine (contact your local water authority to find out), you will need to double dose a dechlorinator. Chloramine is put in municipal water because it is so stable and difficult to degrade.

I have a Python and love it.

[Potluck]

Seachem prime

[Dave Dynasty]

So I just got a call back from a chemist at API regarding their Tap Water Conditioner, and how it works.

You can put tap water directly into an aquarium, and add the Conditioner afterward. You can also put it in at the same time, or beforehand. The conditioner just needs to be combined with the tap water near the time when it is being added to the aquarium. The Conditioner works instantly.

A few other interesting points:

In free-standing tap water, chlorine dissipates into the air in 12-72 hours. Chloramines take a 1-2 weeks. So even free-standing water should be treated, as chloramines are probably still present (along with any heavy metals).

Chloramines are a combination of chlorine, nitrogen and ammonia. Municipalities use chloramines instead of, or in addition to, chlorine. Chlorine is less stable, and may combine with certain organic compounds, resulting in carcinogens. Chloramines are more commonly used where weather is warmer. Over the past 16 years or so, the amount of chlorine and chloramines has risen in tap water in modern municipal water systems.

The Tap Water Conditioner binds with chlorine, forming harmless acidic compounds. Chloramines are broken up, resulting in acids and sulfuric compounds. (As bacteria break down the compounds, more acid is created.) Heavy metals are encapsulated. Water changes are necessary because over time, aquarium water will become more acidic and encapsulated heavy metals will accumulate in a tank.

I was very impressed that a professional from API called me back, and did so quite quickly. I was able to talk directly to somebody who works at the molecular level with this stuff. Not only was it interesting, it was very helpful!