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Old 01-28-2013, 01:49 PM   #1061
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You can probably rinse it out and use it some more. If it bothers you or is really bad then a new one is better. You can also make your own pads with blue bonded media.

The Venturi hose may need to be cleaned out or substituted with an air pump and stone. Works way way better and a million times quieter with an airstone. If you haven't serviced the impeller and impeller housing yet now's the time. A bottle brush helps a lot. That'll get it back on track.

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Old 01-28-2013, 01:52 PM   #1062
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You can probably rinse it out and use it some more. If it bothers you or is really bad then a new one is better. You can also make your own pads with blue bonded media.

The Venturi hose may need to be cleaned out or substituted with an air pump and stone. Works way way better and a million times quieter with an airstone. If you haven't serviced the impeller and impeller housing yet now's the time. A bottle brush helps a lot. That'll get it back on track.
I rinsed off the filter pad for now, the hose was actually clogged with salt creep. Its all working fine now..

I know you've explained the air pump/air stone thing to me before but could u refresh my memory?
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #1063
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Oh how I hate salt creep. Gets in and on everything.

Sure Thing, There's two ways to do it. The way I always ran mine was to remove the intake tube and skimmer and run a normal flexible air line with a very fine air stone under the rectangular opening in the bottom of the reaction chamber, close to the filter intake side, and into the skimmer. It's important to get the air stone about an inch or so above the bottom so the bubbles don't flow out. Then you just add a check valve and connect it to a small air pump and let her rip. You can also add an inline air flow control valve (like 99Ę at a fish store) if the air is to strong. It shouldn't take a strong pump.

Option two, which is very popular, is to just drill a small hole in the top of the collection cup centered over the reaction chamber. You then add a piece of "hard" air line through the hole that's just long enough to hold the air stone where you want it (again about an inch or so above the bottom of the filter). Slip on some flexible air line to the hard airline and add the check and pump and you're in business. The advantage of this mod is the ease of removing the stone to either clean or change. You don't even need to turn the filter off. The disadvantage it it makes it more complicated to clean out the lid when it's wash day. Most people just separate the line at the check valve. Easy peezy.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #1064
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Oh how I hate salt creep. Gets in and on everything.

Sure Thing, There's two ways to do it. The way I always ran mine was to remove the intake tube and skimmer and run a normal flexible air line with a very fine air stone under the rectangular opening in the bottom of the reaction chamber, close to the filter intake side, and into the skimmer. It's important to get the air stone about an inch or so above the bottom so the bubbles don't flow out. Then you just add a check valve and connect it to a small air pump and let her rip. You can also add an inline air flow control valve (like 99Ę at a fish store) if the air is to strong. It shouldn't take a strong pump.

Option two, which is very popular, is to just drill a small hole in the top of the collection cup centered over the reaction chamber. You then add a piece of "hard" air line through the hole that's just long enough to hold the air stone where you want it (again about an inch or so above the bottom of the filter). Slip on some flexible air line to the hard airline and add the check and pump and you're in business. The advantage of this mod is the ease of removing the stone to either clean or change. You don't even need to turn the filter off. The disadvantage it it makes it more complicated to clean out the lid when it's wash day. Most people just separate the line at the check valve. Easy peezy.
I sort of understand what youre saying, I just can't picture it! its so confusing lol do u have any pictures of how u had yours set up?
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:42 AM   #1065
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No, I wish I did. It's a very common mod. Somebody probably has picks posted somewhere on the net. When I moved back to my home town I gave the tank with my Skilter away and kept the other two reefs (30L with sump and 10). I'm planning a new tank and I'll probably use another Skilter on it.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:42 AM   #1066
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No, I wish I did. It's a very common mod. Somebody probably has picks posted somewhere on the net. When I moved back to my home town I gave the tank with my Skilter away and kept the other two reefs (30L with sump and 10). I'm planning a new tank and I'll probably use another Skilter on it.
Ahh alright, guess I'll look around online for some pics. thank you!!
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:34 PM   #1067
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Ahh alright, guess I'll look around online for some pics. thank you!!
Anytime Dan. I just wish I had pictures for you.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:16 PM   #1068
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No biggie, I was reading multiple threads on different forums about doing this mod to the skilter. I think I understand it now, what size air pump would u use? And would a wooden air stone work??
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:42 PM   #1069
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Ok aside from this... I have a serious cyano/hair algae issue issue with this tank. It will not go away! I keep doing pwc and siphoning it out and 2 days later its back.

I already have 2 powerheads plus the hob filter for flow. What else can I do? It's bad to the point where it was covering some of my zoas on my sandbed
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:49 PM   #1070
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Ok aside from this... I have a serious cyano/hair algae issue issue with this tank. It will not go away! I keep doing pwc and siphoning it out and 2 days later its back.

I already have 2 powerheads plus the hob filter for flow. What else can I do? It's bad to the point where it was covering some of my zoas on my sandbed
Got a pic. How big is the clean up crew? Need to figure out where the nutrients are coming from as well. Is the water RO/DI water.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:53 PM   #1071
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Got a pic. How big is the clean up crew? Need to figure out where the nutrients are coming from as well. Is the water RO/DI water.
Every dark spot is cyano. Water is RO/Di. CUC consist of 12-15 various snails, a fighting conch, 1 blue claw, 1 red claw, 1 Halloween hermit, 2 peppermint shrimp.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:31 PM   #1072
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I would get some more hermits. They will help with the hair algae. How much are you feeding. There is a lot of nutrients in the water that's why it keeps coming back so fast. So we got to figure out from where its coming. I would cut back your lights a little too. Algae needs light too.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:11 PM   #1073
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I would get some more hermits. They will help with the hair algae. How much are you feeding. There is a lot of nutrients in the water that's why it keeps coming back so fast. So we got to figure out from where its coming. I would cut back your lights a little too. Algae needs light too.
Well I was gonna leave the lights off for 2 days after siphoning out cyano. Think that would help? And do u think the corals can last that long? I don't feed often, 1/4 frozen food(thawed out) every 3 days.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:30 PM   #1074
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The corals will be fine. I have left mine off the three days with no issues.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:35 PM   #1075
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The corals will be fine. I have left mine off the three days with no issues.
Okay well I guess I'll do that. I'm about to do a water change shortly and get out as much as possible, then its lights out for 2 days
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:00 PM   #1076
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I always thought algae would be almost inevitable with that many fish. It could be something else but this tank just seems packed.

A wooden airstone is fine but they have to be replaced from time to time. I'd get the second smallest Tetra Whisper for the pump. You want a pump with one line out. It's only a few feet of head pressure so a large pump would only cause watery skimate.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:13 PM   #1077
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I always thought algae would be almost inevitable with that many fish. It could be something else but this tank just seems packed.

A wooden airstone is fine but they have to be replaced from time to time. I'd get the second smallest Tetra Whisper for the pump. You want a pump with one line out. It's only a few feet of head pressure so a large pump would only cause watery skimate.
You think 2 clowns, a green clown goby and a bicolor blenny is too much??

And if not the wooden air stone, what would u use??
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:09 PM   #1078
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Ok well I did a 5 gal WC last night, sucked out as much cyano as I could. Still some left but very little. I also replaced my ChemiPure Elite. Turned off the lights and now I'm gonna let it sit in the dark until Sunday morning. Here's hoping something helps!!
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:48 PM   #1079
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You think 2 clowns, a green clown goby and a bicolor blenny is too much??

And if not the wooden air stone, what would u use??
Oh! I thought you were keeping two more than that. No way, that isn't to big of a load. I must be thinking of one of your earlier stock lists. Sorry about that.

I always used extra fine ceramic air stones with the Skilters. They lasted for years. Every few months I'd bleach it out while another one was being used. I can't recall the brand at all. I used wooden Red Sea stones in a Berlin airlift skimmer for over 10 years and that skimmer is still running on my brother's tank.
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:19 PM   #1080
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Oh! I thought you were keeping two more than that. No way, that isn't to big of a load. I must be thinking of one of your earlier stock lists. Sorry about that.

I always used extra fine ceramic air stones with the Skilters. They lasted for years. Every few months I'd bleach it out while another one was being used. I can't recall the brand at all. I used wooden Red Sea stones in a Berlin airlift skimmer for over 10 years and that skimmer is still running on my brother's tank.
Its okay! I understand lol well when I go to my LFS next week I'll check our and see what they have as far as air stones
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