nkim1994
Aquarium Advice Regular
Hello (to the otherside)!
So I decided after successfully maintaining and upgrading my 20 gallon which is now a 30 gallon planted tank, to move to the dark, but beautiful side.
Heres my planted tank! Its now over a year and a half old (apr).
If you want to know more about the setup or stock lmk either here or pm. Though I do have a few ore plants...
So I wanted to start with a SW tank at first but having never had a tank before I went with FW (I also saw Panda Cories so...since stealing pandas is frowned upon...).
So now to the dark side, I have decided to do a Nano reef tank in my 10 Gallon Tank! Gasp! I know through my research that it is usually better to go bigger, thats why I didnt start with SW. I keep a journal and am very thorough in my research, especially before doing this. I have an entire notebook dedicated to my FW tank and my potential new SW. So please do not try to dissuade me from this! All advice is welcome though!
So this is what I have as far as supplies:
- 8lbs BRS Fiji dry rock
- CaribSea Arag Alive! Black Aquarium Sand 20lbs
- Instant Ocean 15lb Bag Salt
- Instant Ocean Hydrometer
- Aquatop 75 Watt Heater
- Maxi-Jet powerhead 106 GPH
- Hydor Pico Evo. Mini Pump 100 gph
- Api Test Salt
- Evo Quad Clip 20x3W Timer Ready LED
So now I have a quite a few questions, so please if you have the time to answer I would be most thankful^^
A) For the 8lbs of BRS Fiji Dry Rock, from what I read it still needs to be cured. Heres where the bulk of my questions are:
1) Since my tank is a new setup I read I could simultaneously cycle, seed, and cure my dry
rock right in the tank.
- My plan A: would be to, put in the dry rock on bare bottom, put in the maxijet pump, heater, salt water (freshly mixed with Rodi or from LFS). I was thinking of getting a pound or two of live rock from my LFS to seed my dry rock (Ill be sure to inspect it but my LFS is great).
I read that if you put the sand in, its harder to clean out the dead matter bare bottom, but should I just put it all in at once so the sand bed matures and cycles with everything? I could just siphon it out too.
So in the BRS video, they said they didnt do any WC and no tests till 2 weeks in, If I have Live rock from my LFS, should I not follow this, and try to keep the Water Params ok as in Max 1ppm of ammonia or does it not really matter? Im sure the ammonia will spike from the rock.
- Plan B: Get two buckets, keep on full of mixing salt water in case and the other with heater and power head and Dry Rock as well as the Live Rock. I would put the lid on and let it do its thing for two weeks test the water, see if I need a WC and let it continue.
- If i put the lid on the bucket should I not push it all the way down for gas exchange? If I seed with the Live Rock with this setup will it still work and would I have to worry about the water parameters?
_ I know it seems silly but I like plan A because I like to watch the tank... (admit it you liked watching you empty tank cycle/cure). I might even get to see the transformation of my dry rock to live rock! I wont put a light over the tank though dont want algae problems and its in a dimmer corner of my room. No sun hits there._
B) I read with the live sand and the Live rock/ Dry rock turning into, by the time the rock cures I wont need any external filtration(?) They said the rock and sand would do that, and be able to support slow addition of fish. Is this true? Other wise I have a Aqua Clear 30 I used to use on my 20 gallon tank, Though I guess I'll need to switch the media in the container for SW.
- As for Fish Stock (I know its early but ill be researching till everything is cured):
Would this be ok?
- 1 or 2x semi-picasso percula clown or True percula clown
- 1x Two spot goby with 1x Pistol shrimp (dunno if there is variety...) Would they pair and advice on a good pair? I know this stock is cliche... but I like it.
_If i get the goby pair I would only get 1 clown fish instead of the both, unless this is two much even if I stay ontop of this daily...? Then I would at least like to have 2 clown fish._
C) The Two pumps that I have listed, if both are used is this too much water flow? I have my Maxi- Jet set on Laminar flow. If i should use only 1 which of the two should I use (I could use the other to keep fresh salt water)?
D) The Evo quad clip 20x3W I got off ebay (I can send you the link if you want) is categorized as new. Here are the Specs:
Includes 20 LEDs
3 Watt LED
2700 lumen
12x 10000K LEDs
8x Actinic 460nm LEDs
Slim and contemporary light design
2 mode on / off function for day and night use
Clamp on bracket
Max 1.15" thick (rimless only)
Minimum 15.00" width required for installation
Non-corrosive powder coated aluminum housing
Timer module is not included
Optional timer module add $22.00
Optional cooling fans add $25.50
110V - 220V
Will this be enough to eventually support corals? like mushrooms? I believe I read LPS are easier the SPS (Though Varies) I do want palys, or the easy corals that are anemones that clowns pair with. Anemones are too aggressive and big for nanos (true/false?) unless you have that as only thing?
E) Maintenance:
AA: Read you dont need to have a protein skimmer in a Nano bc It could do more harm by taking out the trace or elements the orals will need? Is this true or should I get a mini one? Or in general basic is better, no fancy stuff needed etc.
BB: Do you know of a cover that would still allow the led light to shine through to a 10 gallon? Like a screen?
CC: I read you shouldnt dose too much in Nanos bc water params are easily changed and that frequent water changed would be enough to replenish what corals need? Do you agree with this?
Im sorry there is so many questions, I just really wish to do this right and be successful! I would rather be thorough! Anything I missed or that you could add would be wonderful! Even if you can not answer all of it, anything you can would be great!
-Nite
So I decided after successfully maintaining and upgrading my 20 gallon which is now a 30 gallon planted tank, to move to the dark, but beautiful side.
Heres my planted tank! Its now over a year and a half old (apr).
So I wanted to start with a SW tank at first but having never had a tank before I went with FW (I also saw Panda Cories so...since stealing pandas is frowned upon...).
So now to the dark side, I have decided to do a Nano reef tank in my 10 Gallon Tank! Gasp! I know through my research that it is usually better to go bigger, thats why I didnt start with SW. I keep a journal and am very thorough in my research, especially before doing this. I have an entire notebook dedicated to my FW tank and my potential new SW. So please do not try to dissuade me from this! All advice is welcome though!
So this is what I have as far as supplies:
- 8lbs BRS Fiji dry rock
- CaribSea Arag Alive! Black Aquarium Sand 20lbs
- Instant Ocean 15lb Bag Salt
- Instant Ocean Hydrometer
- Aquatop 75 Watt Heater
- Maxi-Jet powerhead 106 GPH
- Hydor Pico Evo. Mini Pump 100 gph
- Api Test Salt
- Evo Quad Clip 20x3W Timer Ready LED
So now I have a quite a few questions, so please if you have the time to answer I would be most thankful^^
A) For the 8lbs of BRS Fiji Dry Rock, from what I read it still needs to be cured. Heres where the bulk of my questions are:
1) Since my tank is a new setup I read I could simultaneously cycle, seed, and cure my dry
rock right in the tank.
- My plan A: would be to, put in the dry rock on bare bottom, put in the maxijet pump, heater, salt water (freshly mixed with Rodi or from LFS). I was thinking of getting a pound or two of live rock from my LFS to seed my dry rock (Ill be sure to inspect it but my LFS is great).
I read that if you put the sand in, its harder to clean out the dead matter bare bottom, but should I just put it all in at once so the sand bed matures and cycles with everything? I could just siphon it out too.
So in the BRS video, they said they didnt do any WC and no tests till 2 weeks in, If I have Live rock from my LFS, should I not follow this, and try to keep the Water Params ok as in Max 1ppm of ammonia or does it not really matter? Im sure the ammonia will spike from the rock.
- Plan B: Get two buckets, keep on full of mixing salt water in case and the other with heater and power head and Dry Rock as well as the Live Rock. I would put the lid on and let it do its thing for two weeks test the water, see if I need a WC and let it continue.
- If i put the lid on the bucket should I not push it all the way down for gas exchange? If I seed with the Live Rock with this setup will it still work and would I have to worry about the water parameters?
_ I know it seems silly but I like plan A because I like to watch the tank... (admit it you liked watching you empty tank cycle/cure). I might even get to see the transformation of my dry rock to live rock! I wont put a light over the tank though dont want algae problems and its in a dimmer corner of my room. No sun hits there._
B) I read with the live sand and the Live rock/ Dry rock turning into, by the time the rock cures I wont need any external filtration(?) They said the rock and sand would do that, and be able to support slow addition of fish. Is this true? Other wise I have a Aqua Clear 30 I used to use on my 20 gallon tank, Though I guess I'll need to switch the media in the container for SW.
- As for Fish Stock (I know its early but ill be researching till everything is cured):
Would this be ok?
- 1 or 2x semi-picasso percula clown or True percula clown
- 1x Two spot goby with 1x Pistol shrimp (dunno if there is variety...) Would they pair and advice on a good pair? I know this stock is cliche... but I like it.
_If i get the goby pair I would only get 1 clown fish instead of the both, unless this is two much even if I stay ontop of this daily...? Then I would at least like to have 2 clown fish._
C) The Two pumps that I have listed, if both are used is this too much water flow? I have my Maxi- Jet set on Laminar flow. If i should use only 1 which of the two should I use (I could use the other to keep fresh salt water)?
D) The Evo quad clip 20x3W I got off ebay (I can send you the link if you want) is categorized as new. Here are the Specs:
Includes 20 LEDs
3 Watt LED
2700 lumen
12x 10000K LEDs
8x Actinic 460nm LEDs
Slim and contemporary light design
2 mode on / off function for day and night use
Clamp on bracket
Max 1.15" thick (rimless only)
Minimum 15.00" width required for installation
Non-corrosive powder coated aluminum housing
Timer module is not included
Optional timer module add $22.00
Optional cooling fans add $25.50
110V - 220V
Will this be enough to eventually support corals? like mushrooms? I believe I read LPS are easier the SPS (Though Varies) I do want palys, or the easy corals that are anemones that clowns pair with. Anemones are too aggressive and big for nanos (true/false?) unless you have that as only thing?
E) Maintenance:
AA: Read you dont need to have a protein skimmer in a Nano bc It could do more harm by taking out the trace or elements the orals will need? Is this true or should I get a mini one? Or in general basic is better, no fancy stuff needed etc.
BB: Do you know of a cover that would still allow the led light to shine through to a 10 gallon? Like a screen?
CC: I read you shouldnt dose too much in Nanos bc water params are easily changed and that frequent water changed would be enough to replenish what corals need? Do you agree with this?
Im sorry there is so many questions, I just really wish to do this right and be successful! I would rather be thorough! Anything I missed or that you could add would be wonderful! Even if you can not answer all of it, anything you can would be great!
-Nite
