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10-06-2012, 03:54 PM
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#1
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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120g build
Okay so I finally got my 120 tank in. It's built in overflow and drilled. I bought a 40g for a sump and have a few questions on the dimensions I should make it. I want a refugium in there as well so my baffles are in question. So I needed to ask how high do I make my first baffles if I need a 6" water depth for my skimmer?
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10-06-2012, 04:03 PM
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#2
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Forgot to attatched what I'm working off of. Found this on the Internet and it seems good to me. Will the water level be okay? And any design modifications anyone suggests? This is obviously my first build. I'm upgrading from a 20 g
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10-06-2012, 06:18 PM
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#3
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 268
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Looks good. I just made one myself thats similar. I would make it higher than needed. As long as your skimmer is adjustable. If not u can always make a shelf to any height u like
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10-06-2012, 09:26 PM
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#4
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Oh great! Thank you! Bought stand materials today; my Home Depot doesn't cut glass so ill have to find a glass shop so I can get this thing up and running
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10-14-2012, 05:15 PM
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#5
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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The stand is built! Was gonna finish it up by sealing and painting along with siding but got called into work. I'm probably going to do my DIY floating refugium tonight. Buying the pump and return assembly Friday. Coming along nicely. And very, very expensive.
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10-14-2012, 07:35 PM
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#6
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 527
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Nice, gonna keep an eye on this thread. I might also need to build a better stand for my 90.
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10-15-2012, 02:48 AM
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#7
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich42082
Nice, gonna keep an eye on this thread. I might also need to build a better stand for my 90.
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Ya I definitely overbuilt the stand but I figure with all that weight let alone money on it I'd go for the overdone version lol
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10-15-2012, 08:40 AM
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#8
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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Nice work on the stand. Mine is similar but I added 2 extra center risers/legs on the long sides. I also partially enclosed the back side with plywood to help with torsional rigidity.
Beefier is better.
What are your plans for this? Reef, Fish Only?
My next upgrade will be a 120 too so ill be tagging along.
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10-15-2012, 01:42 PM
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#9
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeYQM
Nice work on the stand. Mine is similar but I added 2 extra center risers/legs on the long sides. I also partially enclosed the back side with plywood to help with torsional rigidity.
Beefier is better.
What are your plans for this? Reef, Fish Only?
My next upgrade will be a 120 too so ill be tagging along.
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Thanks! I was going to do the center supports but I wanted full access to my sump. Im using 4x4's laying on top of the 4x4 posts for extra strength so I could avoid the center bracing.
It's going to be a reef. I have small frags in my 20 right now and need a home for their growth as well as larger pieces in the future
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10-15-2012, 02:20 PM
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#10
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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Oh, I didn't notice you used 4x4 before. I used L 2x4 in the corners, so you shouldn't worry about that.
I would consider a backing on it though, if you plan on using a wave maker, for a few $ it will give you some insurance against the side to side motion. I know you used ties on the corners, and will be dressing it as well. A backing would also help keep moisture from your drywall and keep light spilling out the edges on the wall of you light a refugium at night.
What are you thinking of for hardware?
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10-15-2012, 03:06 PM
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#11
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeYQM
Oh, I didn't notice you used 4x4 before. I used L 2x4 in the corners, so you shouldn't worry about that.
I would consider a backing on it though, if you plan on using a wave maker, for a few $ it will give you some insurance against the side to side motion. I know you used ties on the corners, and will be dressing it as well. A backing would also help keep moisture from your drywall and keep light spilling out the edges on the wall of you light a refugium at night.
What are you thinking of for hardware?
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Ya I have some siding plywood that I still need to put on but ill do that once it's in place so I can have room to move things around underneath. I'm also gonna put a sealant on everything as well as paint. Do you have holes in your siding for cross ventilation?
Hardware I'm not sure what sized pump, but I'm gonna get a reef octopus skimmer (later on since its $$) but I want it to be as quiet as possible as it will be in my bedroom
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10-15-2012, 03:51 PM
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#12
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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The think about my stand was, I built it for a 120 while I still had a 29. I've upgraded since (too good a deal to pass up) and will be bumping up to a 120 soon enough.
With the smaller tanks, I did ventilate through the top sheet, and now the plumbing runs to a sump in a dedicated fish room, so it's empty underneath.
Since yours is built to the exact size of the stand, I would consider incorporating venting or fans on the sides. It will help keep a more stable pH, and keep moisture down.
I have a Super Reef Octopus HOB Skimmer now, the XP1000s, and it works great. I'm looking at either a SRO XP3000 Ext or XP5000 Ext for the upgrade. When I get the 120 I will net about 200 gals but in about 2 years I'm adding a 240 in the main floor (both tanks same sump) to a net volume of about 375 gal. I guess my point here is, I think the SRO is great bang for your buck.
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10-15-2012, 03:53 PM
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#13
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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I forget where I saw it, and I wish I used it with the sump in the stand, but a guy used rubber (I think) sheets for roofing to seal the shelf in the stand so if the sump flooded, within reason, it would stay in the stand & off the floor.
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10-15-2012, 03:57 PM
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#14
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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10-15-2012, 04:59 PM
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#15
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeYQM
The think about my stand was, I built it for a 120 while I still had a 29. I've upgraded since (too good a deal to pass up) and will be bumping up to a 120 soon enough.
With the smaller tanks, I did ventilate through the top sheet, and now the plumbing runs to a sump in a dedicated fish room, so it's empty underneath.
Since yours is built to the exact size of the stand, I would consider incorporating venting or fans on the sides. It will help keep a more stable pH, and keep moisture down.
I have a Super Reef Octopus HOB Skimmer now, the XP1000s, and it works great. I'm looking at either a SRO XP3000 Ext or XP5000 Ext for the upgrade. When I get the 120 I will net about 200 gals but in about 2 years I'm adding a 240 in the main floor (both tanks same sump) to a net volume of about 375 gal. I guess my point here is, I think the SRO is great bang for your buck.
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You talking about the siding to the exact size? I was thinking about putting a 6x6in cut out on one side of the sump area and a fan on the opposite to help with moisture. Thanks for the link ill look into using something like that for the bottom (hope it will never come of use). I'm sealing with like deck sealant for moisture I'm hoping that will be enough for the amount of evaporation that will be down there.
Not sure of the exact model, but my lfs has one that is $250 I thought that'd be a pretty good one or am I mistaken?
By any chance have you built a canopy? I need one that will house my taotronics LEDs (have to buy another for the upgrade). I wasn't sure what materials to use and such, I need it to contain all of the light that they put off. And how much can the tank hold ontop of it? I was thinking that the canopy has to be really light because it sits ontop of the tank.
Sorry for picking your brain I'm just trying to get it all done right the first time
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10-15-2012, 05:14 PM
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#16
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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I meant the stand to the exact foot print of the tank. A fan on one side & vent on the other should do the trick.
I've never done a canopy though, always preferred the open top look.
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10-15-2012, 09:34 PM
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#17
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeYQM
I meant the stand to the exact foot print of the tank. A fan on one side & vent on the other should do the trick.
I've never done a canopy though, always preferred the open top look.
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Oh okay ya that's what I thought you meant. I prefer open top too but my lights put out so much ambient light into my room it looks like I'm growing marijuana or something
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10-21-2012, 12:45 AM
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#18
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Sump finished going to check seals tomorrow. Also bought the plumbing as well as my pump
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10-21-2012, 12:46 AM
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#19
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 211
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Forgot the picture
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