.25 ammonia levels.

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Calcium is 420 mag is 1300, ph 8.4, salinity 1.026, alk is 8-9.

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I'm just wondering how you keep the pH that high. Do you dose with kalk and do you have a sump? As mentioned before a small tank is susceptible to parameter sudden fluctuation.
 
I have a 10 gallon sump. No dosing it fluctuates a bit but not much

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My frogspawn didn't make it :-(. My ammonia nitrate nitrite and phosphate have been zero for 2 days. My wife had to go to a doctors appointment in Bismark and brought back an acan as a surprise. I would return it but 150 miles is a long way to return something she spent 20 bucks for. He's eating so I'm thinking he's okay.


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What test kits are you using? Getting phosphates from .25 to 0 in 2 days would pretty much take a 100% wc
 
It was 150% over 2 days. 25% every 4-6 hours. I use api for nitrate nitrite ammonia and phosphates. For everything else my lfs let's me use his red sea test kits whenever I need too. Like the last 3 days lol. I do 25% w/c weekly sometimes more so usually I only check traces biweekly if not monthly since my corals at the moment are minimal.

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Could also be the result of hydrogen sulfide aside from amonia and nitrite. Since you only have corals you can do 90 pc pwc. That way it removes quickly whatever toxic gas remaining in the system.
 
Could also be the result of hydrogen sulfide aside from amonia and nitrite. Since you only have corals you can do 90 pc pwc. That way it removes quickly whatever toxic gas remaining in the system.
Tha's a good point. If It is, youd smell rotten eggs with the tank. If you do a seriously large water change over 50% be sure everything matches perfectly. Ph, temp, salinity,.
 
Tha's a good point. If It is, youd smell rotten eggs with the tank. If you do a seriously large water change over 50% be sure everything matches perfectly. Ph, temp, salinity,.

I don't smell anything. I'm going to continue doing a daily 25% w/c anyways at least til Sunday. Thanks for the help guys.

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Corals have specific parameter to thrive on and LFS do maintain them in such standard level otherwise they will keep losing them. We the reef keepers do the same thing. If you take the parameter readings of your new corals i bet you the only difference would be just the temperature. Other data may differ but it would not be that much. Some acclimate them and some just float the bag in the tank until it has the same temperature. I do the later and never had a problem.
 
Corals have specific parameter to thrive on and LFS do maintain them in such standard level otherwise they will keep losing them. We the reef keepers do the same thing. If you take the parameter readings of your new corals i bet you the only difference would be just the temperature. Other data may differ but it would not be that much. Some acclimate them and some just float the bag in the tank until it has the same temperature. I do the later and never had a problem.

Well, you must have an amazing lfs because the corals I've seen from two different sources have a lower pH, salinity, calcium, and alkalinity than I try to run my tank at.

Bottom line, the basic rule of reef keeping is slow and steady. Why rush things when you can throw it in a bucket and ignore it for a couple hours while it acclimates?

Tying things back to my original comment towards the OP in an attempt to get this thread back on track: The parameters in freshly mixed water are often a fair amount different than your tank values due to co2, slightly depleted mineral levels, and whatnot. It doesn't make hardly any difference in a smaller change of 50% or less but in a larger water change (such as the suggested 95%) those differences can be drastic.
 
For fish yes it is absolutely necessary to acclimate them because lfs keep them in low salinity for comfort but they are not bothered by calcium or magnesium.
 
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