.25ppm Ammonia for weeks...HELP!!

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nestor29

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
61
Can't seem to get ammonia levels to 0ppm. It's been .25ppm for the past few weeks. I've done multiple 50% water changes but still .25ppm. All my life stock is alive and seem healthy. I know for a fact it's not my testing equipment.

Any ideas on whats going on and how can I lower the ammonia?
 
How do u know not testing kit? Have u compared to another test kit or manufacture? Are u testing properly, some tests require u to time the test and hold a certain distance from scale to determin your results. What are you water perameters and what size tank and what's your livestock?
 
Can't seem to get ammonia levels to 0ppm. It's been .25ppm for the past few weeks. I've done multiple 50% water changes but still .25ppm. All my life stock is alive and seem healthy. I know for a fact it's not my testing equipment.

Any ideas on whats going on and how can I lower the ammonia?

how long has the tank been up and running, is it cycled or going thru a cycle, if it is cycling there should be not live stock in there, you cycle will take 6-8 weeks
 
I'm having the same readings. I'm using API test kit and having same reading even though after a 30% pwc. I had to bring a water sample to my fav LFS and he reads 0 Ammonia. Planning to change to a diff test kit...just dont know yet which one.
 
I had the same issue, but I found out it was my API test kit. .25 ammonia always. Then. I took my water to myLFS and it was fine. Maybe its because its kinda hard to read accurately . But if you still have the same issue take it to you LFS
 
How long has the tank been running?
Have you tested your tap?
Have you done a major cleaning lately (filters, big gravel vac) ?
What are your other readings for nitrite and nitrate?
 
I agree with the suggestion to take a water sample to your lfs. Sometimes it is hard to distinguish the difference between .25 and zero on your test kit, and the lfs might clear it up.
 
If its staying at. 25 after water changes its more than likely your tap water. .25 isn't toxic. Hold off on pwcs for a few days to see if it zeroes. Also test your tap for ammonia
 
I find more often than not the API test kits yield a "false positive" of .25ppm. I would confirm with a kit of a different make, and then just use .25 as your 0 point.
 
I would do some water test results on your PWC water. It could be that you are adding the ammonia through your PWC`s. Do an ammonia test on your PWC water to be sure.
 
Thanks everyone!
My tank is 29g and it's been running for a few years. I only have 2 clowns, some mushrooms, and a CUC. I did have an algae problem a few months ago but it's almost gone thanks to the new additions to my CUC. I did change the filter I had since the other broke and now running a really noisy BioWheel 350 w/out the wheels... for the media I use Chemi-Pure Elite and Purigen in one compartment and in the other I use regular carbon pad (stock) with a Phosphate pad. I also just added a SeaClone 100protein skimmer which is working phenomenal. (I was running it without one since my LFS suggested me to)

Currently my water parameters are :
.25 Ammonia
.01 Nitrite
5.0 Nitrate

And yes I tested my tap water and it read .25 Ammonia but ever since then I've been using distilled water.
 
Try daily 20% water changes and check your stocking limit on AqAdvisor. Maybe something is in your food
 
And 5.0 is quite low for nitrate btw. Not a big deal just letting you know
 
I'm worried more about the Ammonia and Nitrite...I want em to read 0 so I can add a cleaner shrimp
 
I'm worried more about the Ammonia and Nitrite...I want em to read 0 so I can add a cleaner shrimp

Here's what I recommend to anyone using an API test kit.... the ammo test is never going to be as yellow as the color on the card. What you are looking for is more of a "lack of green" rather than that bright yellow they depict.
Either make sure your RODI water is truely 0 TDS, or go spend a couple bucks and get yourself a gallon of distilled water from the grocery, and mix up some salt water to your specifications. Now run two ammo tests side-by-side, one with tank water, and one with the control sample of known clean water..... if they come up the same color, you have no ammo. If your tank has been up & running for a few years, I'm venturing a guess and saying no have no ammo, it's just the way you're reading the test.

One other question.... If you're using an API test kit, how are you getting 0.01 Nitrite when the test reads in 0.25 increments up to 1ppm?

EDIT: just went back & saw that you are using distilled for your pwc's, so do the above with your mixed water. Another note.... It may seem cheap to buy a few gallons of distilled water at a time, but if you add those up over the long haul, you will come out far cheaper in the end to pick yourself up an RODI unit.
 
I just bought an RO/DI unit from these guys. Someone else recommended it to me so we will see how it goes but they were very inexpensive and she has had hers almost a year.

Purewaterclub.com.

I will be hooking mine up and testing it this weekend. I was buying RO water from the store but tested it and it still showed having phosphates... 0_o...that's why I decided to try this out. Someone else also said that their LFS will sometimes have used units for sale. I had already ordered this so I never checked mine.
 
Phranque said:
Here's what I recommend to anyone using an API test kit.... the ammo test is never going to be as yellow as the color on the card. What you are looking for is more of a "lack of green" rather than that bright yellow they depict.
Either make sure your RODI water is truely 0 TDS, or go spend a couple bucks and get yourself a gallon of distilled water from the grocery, and mix up some salt water to your specifications. Now run two ammo tests side-by-side, one with tank water, and one with the control sample of known clean water..... if they come up the same color, you have no ammo. If your tank has been up & running for a few years, I'm venturing a guess and saying no have no ammo, it's just the way you're reading the test.

One other question.... If you're using an API test kit, how are you getting 0.01 Nitrite when the test reads in 0.25 increments up to 1ppm?

EDIT: just went back & saw that you are using distilled for your pwc's, so do the above with your mixed water. Another note.... It may seem cheap to buy a few gallons of distilled water at a time, but if you add those up over the long haul, you will come out far cheaper in the end to pick yourself up an RODI unit.

Just an FYI many, if not most, freshly mixed sw will test positive for ammonia, as ammonia is used in the processing of the synthetic salt. So this advice is not necessarily accurate. A better method would be to test the FW used to make up the salt to get a color reference, and expect the tank water to be the same color, just a tad cloudy.
 
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