Algae

[Readingexcalibur]

My idea what type this is. It is thick, I almost thought it was a rock. It has some hairline algae growing off of it, lol. Appeared over a week. If I touch it, it breaks up in large chunks.

[Readingexcalibur]

Mabye red slime (blue green) even tho it's brownish red. Just really thick.

[Readingexcalibur]

Any idea how to get rid of it?

[crister13]

Good water quality, good flow, and reduced lighting. Good water quality (low phosphates and nitrates) will do the best.

[bigben2057]

Its cyano. Add more snails that helps.

[RYANLAWRENCE]

Currently battling cyano. After a long fight, I just used Chemi Clean and it has killed 90% of it

[Schism]

Originally Posted by RYANLAWRENCE

Currently battling cyano. After a long fight, I just used Chemi Clean and it has killed 90% of it

Chemiclean is not a fix.

If you want to fix your problem or get rid of cyano you must get rid of the nutrients that feeds it ie nitrates and phisphates. Killing it only frees the phosphate and nitrate that was absorbed and releases it back into the water column where at some point it will be taken back up by cyano or algae.

To get rid of cyano.

Step 1: siphon out cyano, all you can.
Step 2: run GFO in a reactor
Step 3: large water change
Step 4: proper skimming/feeding

Repeat weekly until gone.

What not to do:
1) Do not cut lighting. Will not solve your problem and only messes with coral metabolism.
2) Do not use chemicals. No chemical can get rid of a nutrient problem.
3) Do not overfeed.
4) if using filtration methods that trap detritus, you may want to re-evaluate your setup.

[Saratj1]

Originally Posted by Schism

Chemiclean is not a fix.

If you want to fix your problem or get rid of cyano you must get rid of the nutrients that feeds it ie nitrates and phisphates. Killing it only frees the phosphate and nitrate that was absorbed and releases it back into the water column where at some point it will be taken back up by cyano or algae.

To get rid of cyano.

Step 1: siphon out cyano, all you can.
Step 2: run GFO in a reactor
Step 3: large water change
Step 4: proper skimming/feeding

Repeat weekly until gone.

What not to do:
1) Do not cut lighting. Will not solve your problem and only messes with coral metabolism.
2) Do not use chemicals. No chemical can get rid of a nutrient problem.
3) Do not overfeed.
4) if using filtration methods that trap detritus, you may want to re-evaluate your setup.

I agree with this except do this, then use chemiclean and it will go away and not come back. I did basically this stuff with marginal results, then dosed chemiclean and it went away and has not came back. I think mine was caused by too much frozen cubed foods. I was getting a little happy with feeding stuff the frozen mysis, and the juice has a lot nutrients in it.

[Schism]

Originally Posted by Saratj1

I agree with this except do this, then use chemiclean and it will go away and not come back. I did basically this stuff with marginal results, then dosed chemiclean and it went away and has not came back. I think mine was caused by too much frozen cubed foods. I was getting a little happy with feeding stuff the frozen mysis, and the juice has a lot nutrients in it.

Most of the phosphate is contained in the food, not the juice. Overfeeding would have caused a nutrient problem. Again chemiclean will not fix a nutrient problem.

[crister13]

Just asking what do you mean schism about not using things to trap detritus????? Are you saying to remove filter socks and any sponges????? Wouldnt that just leave them to break down in the tank? Not questioning you just asking.

[Readingexcalibur]

Yeah, I syphoned the algae out gently as not to disturb my 1.5 year old sand bed. Then did a large water change. I cut back to feeding every other day. Corals all seem healthy and happy.

[Schism]

Originally Posted by crister13

Just asking what do you mean schism about not using things to trap detritus????? Are you saying to remove filter socks and any sponges????? Wouldnt that just leave them to break down in the tank? Not questioning you just asking.

Filter socks, sponges, filter floss, powerfilters, canisters etc. and yes they would break down in the tank however this will not happen if they are removed through proper skimming and water changes.

To the OP:

You state you remove the algae without disturbing your 1.5yr old sand bed? That may be your problem to begin with. Let me start by asking why you dont disturb it.

[Readingexcalibur]

I don't know, lol, I was always told not to disturb it. I do have nasarin snails however. It's been a year in this tank without anything but some diatom or hairline. My friend had it for 6 months before i bought it. This outbreak is pretty new. I buy my water from the ocean. But I think I am going to stop buying it from my lfs. What's your recommendation for sifting the sand bed. It's 2-3inchs deep.

[Schism]

Siphoning it is the concern here. Not cleaning and maintaining your sandbed will lead to problems some very serious.

Since it has been so long i would start by siphoning 25% of it each water change until it is thoroughly cleaned. If it contains pockets of hydrogen sulfide then disturbing small portions at a time is best. However only being a bit over a year you should not have much if any with a 2-3 inch bed. However your sandbed is trapping nutrients and could likely be contributing to the problem.

[Readingexcalibur]

I will do this. I don't believe the water I am using is poor quality, and I am on an 8 hour light schedule, my lps and sps seem to be doing great with growth. I think you may be right on this one. It does look kinda dirty. I am going to Syphon with my water changes. I do 25% every 4 days.

[Schism]

Originally Posted by Readingexcalibur

I will do this. I don't believe the water I am using is poor quality.

I would not assume anything that significant without testing. Sea water is not always good, not all sea water is the same. It can contain many contaminants depends on when, where, and how its collected and stored. May not be the problem but something i would test for everything i could and be aware of.

[Readingexcalibur]

Sounds good, thanks for your help. I do have reef crystals and a rodi on order to change things up for a bit. But until then, I will test!

[J33ps]

I think what saratj1 was saying is that's yes do the water changes get everything down to o nitrate and phosphates the at the end use chemaclean I had the same problem I got mine nitrates and phosphate to 0 and it still would not go away it was there for a month so I used chemaclean and it was gone and has not came back it's been two months sometimes when all else doesn't work u may have to use it

[Schism]

Originally Posted by J33ps

I think what saratj1 was saying is that's yes do the water changes get everything down to o nitrate and phosphates the at the end use chemaclean I had the same problem I got mine nitrates and phosphate to 0 and it still would not go away it was there for a month so I used chemaclean and it was gone and has not came back it's been two months sometimes when all else doesn't work u may have to use it

You never have to or should use a chemical. The reason for the problem is simple. Just because your test kits read 0 does not mean it is 0. Nitrates and phosphates still remain bound up in the algae, sand and rock. The problem can be fixed through maintenance. Chemiclean is a dangerous chemical that in no way is reef safe. Used incorrectly it can and will kill your whole tank. Ive seen it happen many many times. Why take the risk when it solves nothing.

Physical removal is needed to remove the bound nutrients. Chemiclean will not do this.

[Readingexcalibur]

I don't use chemicals. Thanks tho.