Are banner fish prone to ich?

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DI68

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I bought a banner fish last weekend and my sailfin was really giving it a hard time. I couldn't find banner fish on the compatibility chart when I bought it to check how they would co exist. They were more compatible by the next day however I noticed the banner fish breaking out in white spots late this week. I am pumping their food with garlic and am thinking maybe I should take him back to the LFS if it is a stressful fish and I don't want to contaminate my tank. I didn't think ich would develop so quickly....my other fish have no signs of it so maybe it came with it and is now showing through the specific stage of cycle?


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How big is the tank?

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400 litres but that can't be the problem...the LFS tank was 1/3 of the size and it's only been a week


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Bannerfish are no more susceptible to ich than other fish that are being harassed. The problem was the Sailfin picking on him and not a compatibility issue. They ARE compatible and would have been a better mix had the Sailfin gone in the tank after the Bannerfish. You will most likely have the same issue with any new fish you put into the tank that has any size to it. It's a threat to the Sailfin so it needs to show "the new guy" who is boss of the tank.
As for the spots, most likely it is ich. It may have come with the new fish or, because ich has multiple stages, may have been in your tank all along and just needed a stressed fish to be present to attack it. I strongly suggest you remove the new fish to a hospital tank and treat for the parasites and make sure your main tank does not come down with an infestation. Afterwards, after all is healed and confirmed safe, I'd remove the sailfin and reintroduce the bannerfish and let that fish get settled before reintroducing the Sailfin. Better yet, decide what other fish you want in the tank and maybe bring the Sailfin back to your LFS until you finish your collection then add the Tang last. There will be more harmony in the tank this way. I also suggest you set up a quarantine tank that you can house any new fish in for a minimum of 6-8 weeks. Most diseases will either have attacked the fish or shown up within that time frame so you can better treat them in a smaller tank. The new fish will also have the chance to get used to your feeding regimen and foods you feed without the harassment of the other tank mates eating it all first.

Hope this helps
 
I agree with Andy, except that I will point out whether or not the ich came in on your new tank, you already have an infestation of what is presumably ich.
 
Thanks Andy.....I had concerns with the similar sizes and stripes and the sailfin is already a hog with feeding time. He came with my previous smaller tank and I contemplated selling him as he should be in a 6ft tank. My question now is the hospital /QT tank. I have two empty tanks...90litres and 250 litres which I could set up, taking water out of the DT but wouldn't the smaller size tank add stress too? I tried treating a hippo 18mths ago (3tanks ago) for ich, doing hypo salinity but ended up advertising him for free to someone more experienced who could successfully treat it as I couldn't bear to see him suffer. None of my fish have showed any signs of it since so I thought I was in the clear...now the banner fish is often following the sailfin and he is trying to ignore the new fish.


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I think I will try taking him back tomorrow and get a store credit til I set up my other tank


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Thanks Andy.....I had concerns with the similar sizes and stripes and the sailfin is already a hog with feeding time. He came with my previous smaller tank and I contemplated selling him as he should be in a 6ft tank. My question now is the hospital /QT tank. I have two empty tanks...90litres and 250 litres which I could set up, taking water out of the DT but wouldn't the smaller size tank add stress too? I tried treating a hippo 18mths ago (3tanks ago) for ich, doing hypo salinity but ended up advertising him for free to someone more experienced who could successfully treat it as I couldn't bear to see him suffer. None of my fish have showed any signs of it since so I thought I was in the clear...now the banner fish is often following the sailfin and he is trying to ignore the new fish.


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Ich will survive in the rocks and substrate for up to 8 weeks. It also attacks the gills first so even if you don't see any spots it doesn't necessarily mean that you are in the clear.
 
Ich will survive in the rocks and substrate for up to 8 weeks. It also attacks the gills first so even if you don't see any spots it doesn't necessarily mean that you are in the clear.


+1 This is why you always medicate fish in a bare tank so any parasite will have no place to hide. (y)
 
Been reading up on QTs that run 24/7 and emergency QTs. Differing advice of course which does your head in- everyone has an opinion. What are you supposed to medicate a healthy looking fish with and how long to keep it in the QT? Isn't the QT meant to observe the fish and then medicate according any actual symptoms rather than a blanket comment "always medicate fish" which implies all new fish? And if I get it out of the tank now I may be lucky enough that it hasn't released any cysts or free swimming parasites into the tank (if it came with it in its gills already)


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Been reading up on QTs that run 24/7 and emergency QTs. Differing advice of course which does your head in- everyone has an opinion. What are you supposed to medicate a healthy looking fish with and how long to keep it in the QT? Isn't the QT meant to observe the fish and then medicate according any actual symptoms rather than a blanket comment "always medicate fish" which implies all new fish? And if I get it out of the tank now I may be lucky enough that it hasn't released any cysts or free swimming parasites into the tank (if it came with it in its gills already)


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if its been in your tank more than a few days then it has released the cysts. keeping a fish in qt is suggested up to a month to allow for symptoms to show and it's common to keep them in hyposalinity for that time. it'll automatically treat for ich and allow you to monitor for any other conditions that might have arisen


Basically, the longer qt the more positive you can be that the fish doesn't have anything. So it's a judgement call.
 
I am going to cheat and simply ask the question as I am toggling between sites still reading up on everything (it's 2.11am). Do you put the fish in the water with specific gravity already at 1.008 -9 or slowly reduce it? I was unsuccessful last time I tried hypo salinity and had slowly reduced the salt.......no need to respond......have moved from trying to find a smaller QT and reading about filtration, seeding etc and now found my answer on hyposalinity. I did it right previously but it didn't work on the tang I had. I will try copper this time around. Thanks for all the responses. Maybe admin can add a function to delete a post if the question no longer needs a response? Could only edit this on my iPad....ps it's 3am.....eyes are burning : (


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Been reading up on QTs that run 24/7 and emergency QTs. Differing advice of course which does your head in- everyone has an opinion. What are you supposed to medicate a healthy looking fish with and how long to keep it in the QT? Isn't the QT meant to observe the fish and then medicate according any actual symptoms rather than a blanket comment "always medicate fish" which implies all new fish? And if I get it out of the tank now I may be lucky enough that it hasn't released any cysts or free swimming parasites into the tank (if it came with it in its gills already)


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To help clarify, how you handle a new fish is determined by how the place you got your fish from handled the fish before you got it. For example, if you got the fish straight from the ocean because you caught it yourself, you can safely assume that is has some parasitic life somewhere on or in it's body and medicating for this is in the fish's best interest as well as your display tank's well being. If your fish has come from a store that medicates it's new arrivals or buys from a wholesaler that medicates it's fish prior to shipping, then "holding" a fish in a separate tank for a period of time ( 6-8 weeks is recommended) is a good idea to confirm that the fish is not still carrying any other diseases and has adapted to your schedules. If you are not sure, there are prophylactic meds that I would use to be on the safe side.

The comment "medicate all fish" means any fish, at any time it is sick, should be medicated, if a medication is being used, NOT in the display tank but in a bare tank so that you have the exact amount of water needed to medicate properly and should this be a parasitic organism that has multiple stages that are not always effected by a certain medication, there will be no place for the organism to hide. Water displacement from decor is one main reason why fish in hospital tanks don't get the proper treatment. Either it is over medicated or under medicated because the exact amount of water is not known or taken into consideration. Depending on the decor, some medications are absorbed out of the water by the decor which again, keeps the fish from getting properly treated. Once the disease has been identified, how you treat your display tank will be determined by what disease your fish has. In certain parasite cases, leaving the tank empty for a period of time will solve the problem without needing to do anything else.

Another +1 to Mebbid's comment about the parasites already being in your tank. Whether your fish are showing it or not, the chances the parasite has not reproduced in your tank by now are remote. It's time for you to be vigilant and watch your other fish for any signs, however insignificant, that they are breaking down.

On a personal note, and in keeping with the "Differing advice of course which does your head in- everyone has an opinion" theme, ;) While I am in favor of a holistic treatment for certain situations, for parasitic infestations, I tend to use medicine feeling that why should I let the fish suffer for multiple days until a holistic method finally works when I can medicate and relieve the fish almost instantly? It's also possible to do more damage to the fish with improperly administering holistic treatments. Again, it's all situational. In another thread, a fellow AAer took in a Hippo Tang that was not doing well in the tank it was in. After multiple posts about which medication should be used, I offered a "wait and see" approach with using proper dietary and environmental conditions. The OP recently posted that this fish was doing much better, with not using any medications, but with using a better diet and a proper environment. It is just situational.

Hope this helps (y)
 
Thanks again Andy.... Am working out my plan of action for when the LFS opens. Fill my AquaOne 620 with SW from the DT (or buy a 510 that ends auction in around 7hrs now) buy a new HOB rather than the filter that's connected to it as maybe it will fit some bio balls from the sump in it to seed. Find a spare power head and heater and purchase extra SW , copper and copper test kit. Treat that fish and observe the rest in the DT. Meanwhile set up my 250l tank I bought for emergencies with new LR (only have canister filter with uv for that one) and once that has finished cycling I will transfer the banner over to that tank and continue to observe it. I know it's not the right size tank but I will feel safer than putting it back in the original DT.


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