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Old 03-26-2016, 08:47 PM   #1
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Cyano

ok so with cyano, instead of turning off the lights for a few days and I keep my lights at all blue for 3 days. Will this help starve out the cyano? Will this affect my corals from fully extending?

I will also suck out the sand bed and change water as well.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:18 PM   #2
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More flow aiming at the area's affected along with bigger more frequent water-changes
will do most of the work but it wouldn't hurt to suck out as much as you can during water-changes . yes it can affect your corals lightly blow off your rocks along with corals , I always used a turkey baster as you control how hard you blow things off , not to damage any coral
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:27 PM   #3
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I have an mp40 and mp10 with a gyre x130 on a 65 gal tank lol I don't know what I'm doing wrong here. I have 3 great pumps should be more than enough flow.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:35 PM   #4
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Could it be the location of my pumps?
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:41 PM   #5
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you can keep one aimed at the surface , and bring the other down closer to the sand bed. without disturbing the sand bed ,
meaning not to create a sand storm !

it has a lot to do with positioning for the best water flow . with what I said you should see a big improvement ,

looking at your tank layout this should solve the flow issue .
helping rid the cayno issue , frequent water changes will also help..



This was my big head ach , I know over kill

I always had a big circulation issues it always drove me nuts , I had lots of dead spots in my 90g mine was because of length and height of the tank along with the positioning of rocks , so I added more power heads ,

6 to be exact . 2 1200's at the surface on either end , 2 900's at the bottom on either end close to the bottom , 2 650's on the back wall on either end facing toward the center front glass mid level , all the extra circulation made a big difference , but how they are positioned keeps the water-flow so it's not over powering was the trick , I agree that's a lot of flow but I don't notice more water movement just way better gas exchange at the surface and less crud resting on the sand and rocks ,
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:48 PM   #6
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Thanks I'll increase the intensity of the vortechs
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:33 PM   #7
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Even with changing flow around, the nutrients feeding the cyano still exist in the water column. You'll have to address that before it turns into algae.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:47 PM   #8
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Should i go with chemi clean?
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:16 PM   #9
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That is a bandaid that will remove cyano...which will return if the nutrient issue isn't resolved. Water changes with ro/di water, reduce feedings, so on.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:57 PM   #10
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I might have to add more vortechs .. Lol
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Old 03-29-2016, 03:08 PM   #11
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Cyano

Cyano is not a algae, it's a bacteria. It's much "flimsier" than a algae so low flow allows it to congregate in a location, usually where there is die off and excess nutrients for feeding. It can be prevented by maintenance and keeping organic carbon sources under control. Most medications that kill it are basic antibacterial remedies that kills the bacteria but releases its contents back into the water where it will just start growing again. Over the 26 years of my reef, I've fought it multiple times when I got a bit behind on maintenance.
Siphon it out, increase flow and keep up on water exchanges and/or use something like GFO to reduce phosphates.


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Old 03-29-2016, 03:13 PM   #12
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I do weekly water chages. Maybe my issue is my wc arent large enough? I i only do a 10 % wc every week
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Old 03-29-2016, 03:23 PM   #13
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Cyano

Can you measure phosphate levels? It may be because of various factors, including bio load, that you need to up your exchange rates. In the end, this is the easiest way to a real cure.


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Old 03-29-2016, 03:36 PM   #14
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Phosphate was 0
Nitrate was 0.2

I also use a gfo and carbon reactor
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Old 03-29-2016, 05:11 PM   #15
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Cyano

Phosphate may be at zero, or test kit may not detect levels accurately at the low end. The amount of phosphate can also be masked by algae uptake. Algae and cyano need something to grow with, so I suspect you have more phosphate than you think. Also it could be there is something local to the outbreak dying off.


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Old 04-20-2016, 04:01 PM   #16
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Hi there sometimes Cyano Can be caused by a imbalance of No3 & Phos and it's just about finding the right ratio of both which I Believe is about 12 to 1


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Old 04-20-2016, 04:11 PM   #17
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Cyano

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr tap water View Post
Hi there sometimes Cyano Can be caused by a imbalance of No3 & Phos and it's just about finding the right ratio of both which I Believe is about 12 to 1


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Can you expand on this?
Second question, does your screen name mean you are a proponent of using tap water?


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Old 04-20-2016, 04:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregcoyote View Post
Can you expand on this?
Second question, does your screen name mean you are a proponent of using tap water?


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To your first question I hope this helps.
http://www.redseafish.com/blog/nitra...carbon-dosing/
To your second question I used to run a successful mixed reef tank with tap water and always have done in the past and that was my prerogative, so when joining forms decided to go mr tap water, as I thought that would be appropriate ,BUT for nearly 3 years now have been using RO, I hope that clears things up for you🙂


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Old 04-20-2016, 06:56 PM   #19
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Thanks


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