How to deal with brown algae?

[bpeitzke]

Our 40-gal SW tank with now 7 fish (3" puffer, 3" Emperor Angel, 2" dwarf Angel, 3x1.5" damsels, 2" clown) few snails, 2" crushed coral substrate, and several large dead corals for hiding places, has been pretty stable for > month now. We have a Fluval sump filter and two powerheads, and 2 fluorescent lights (white & blue) that we turn on ~ 3 hrs/day. Temp kept @ ~ 78, ph stable @ 8.0, salinity stable @ ~ 1.23, ammonio zero, nitrites zero, but nitrates 5.0 ppm (scale?). Fish all healthy & active; clown had one big bite out of a fin, but he's fine & it's growing out. I know we're a bit overcrowded, but can't help that - they all have names & personalities now.

Only problem is we keep getting brown algae on the dead corals, and have to take pieces out every couple of weeks to bleach it out in the sun. I'm a bit worried about the nitrates.

As I understand it with my limited knowledge, such a tank is a one-way cycle (no plants to consume the nitrates), and the only way to keep the nitrates down is regular water changes. No bacteria will consume nitrates. Do I have this right?

Any other way to regulate it? I'm thinking of getting some cured LR, but think that would help filtration but not nitrates - right? Could we realistically introduce some kind of plants to consume the nitrates? Macro-algae?

Grateful for any advice. We are really enjoying this tank.

Bob Peitzke

 

[toddwess]

What is your water source for water changes? If it is just tap water, that's your problem....

 

[bpeitzke]

Oh oh. Yes, we've been using tap water. I believe my daughter (it's her tank) has been treating it with Amquel to neutralize the chloramines, beforing the SW conditioning.

Better way?

 

[bpeitzke]

Oh oh. Yes, we've been using tap water. I believe my daughter (it's her tank) has been treating it with Amquel to neutralize the chloramines, beforing the SW conditioning.

Better way?

 

[toddwess]

You should use either Reverse Osmosis (RO) water or Deionized (DI) water. I use a DI filter that I got from the fish store.

The important thing, is that it removes Disolved Solids (I think that is what they're called) and that is what generates the algae.

I accidentally set up my 40 gallon tank with tap water, and I have had brown algae forever. Im just now starting to get rid of it. I had to do a drastic 50% water change.

My recommendation (please take with a grain of salt) is to do a 10% water change quite frequently over the next few days. Use either RO or DI water. Salt it to the perfect salinity, temperature and pH (since you have critters living in there already - you don't want to shock them) I would do this a few times. Each water change takes some of the original tap water out. After a while, the brown algae will go away.

Also, you could look into a "Phosphate Magnet" product. It is a bag of stuff (for lack of a better term) that sits in your sump or skimmer that helps remove phospahtes from the water. Phosphates are one of algae's best friends!!

What is your current phosphate reading?

HTH,
Todd

 

[steve-s]

Phosphates are more the case of green algaes. Brown algaes>> Diatom and dinoflagelates are the result of silicates.
I think for the most part what todwess has suggested about the small water changes would be the easiest solution as well as looking into an RO unit.

Is it city water or well water?

Cheers
Steve

 

[fishtender]

Steve, since I just learned myself that my cyano problem probab;y stemmed from elevated phosphates and silicates, I have been looking for a solution. I didn't realize that as good as my well water tests, it is more than likely high is silicates. The phosphate remover I purchased is also supposed to remove the silicates. It came in the form af a net bag filed with tiny beeds. You are to place it in your filter or wherever there is a lot of water moving through it. I just installed it today in my back filter and will let you know how it does.

It says to let it go for threee days and then check the levels. Keep your fingers crossed.

Howard

 

[steve-s]

Resin products can sometimes be of benefit but be careful how long they are left in the tank. Many do not last long and the effects are quickly reversed and leach back into the tank. Once the levels are down to an acceptable level for the PO4 & SiO3, I would remove it.

Cyano has many fuel sources as well as the ones you have mentioned. Once established it can be hard to eliminate as it needs little to sustain itself and can grow with simple light and nutrient of anykind.

Diatom blooms on the other hand are very easily eliminated.

Cheers
Steve

 

[mulron]

Just to add, you can add the PO4/SiO3 product(usually phosguard) to the water you are going to use for the upcoming water change. This way you are not putting any new problems into the tank. Just pre-mix the water a few days in advance.

 

[bpeitzke]

More on brown algae

Our nitrate readings are holding steady at 5ppm. Water is city supply, not well. LFS guy told us not to worry, that all new tanks go through a brown algae phase in the 2-4 month time-frame. He said eventually it will be replaced by green algae, which more things eat. We have only 5 snails; thinking of getting say 5 more. Are turbos or bumblebees good? If not, what? Don't want to get more of the astraea's, as they can't self-right, and are a PITA.

Would macro-algaes help consume the phosphates and keep the tank in balance? Seems like they might add visual interest to the tank.

Thanks.

- Bob

 

[steve-s]

Re: More on brown algae

Our nitrate readings are holding steady at 5ppm. Water is city supply, not well. LFS guy told us not to worry, that all new tanks go through a brown algae phase in the 2-4 month time-frame. He said eventually it will be replaced by green algae, which more things eat.

For the most part what the LFS has told you is true but the algae growth and it's "staying" power will greatly depend on how pure the city water is. Most contain certain elements like phosphate, silicates and other contaminates not harmful to us really but are great fuel sources for unwanted algeas. If these levels are high (determined via testing) then the use of the above mentioned "sponges" would help.

We have only 5 snails; thinking of getting say 5 more. Are turbos or bumblebees good? If not, what? Don't want to get more of the astraea's, as they can't self-right, and are a PITA.

Agreed on the Astrea's . I personally wouldn't give 2¢ for them. Turbo snails can be a good choice but be aware they do get large and rather cumbersome. They can/will knock unsecured items over. Some different suggestions would be a good combination of >>nerites<< and >>cerith for algae control and some >>nassarius<< for the sand bed, detritus and uneaten foods. The bumblebee's are an attractive looking snail but are mainly carnivorous and will mainly stick to carion which will not help your problem.

Would macro-algaes help consume the phosphates and keep the tank in balance? Seems like they might add visual interest to the tank.

Macro algaes would indeed help quite a bit with improving water quality but you may wish to opt for a HOB refugium or a seperate smaller refugium connected to the main tank. Macros tend to get "embeded" easily in the system and can very quickly become a nuisance. They are much easier to control if seperate from the main tank.

Cheers
Steve

 

[bpeitzke]

More about macro-algae

So macro-algae can spread like weeds? Hmmm - that would tend to defeat their ornamental aspect.

>>Refugium<< - some sort of separate, hidden tank, presumably with water circulated to/from main tank? We don't have room for one.

Are there any marine plants that are attractive, don't get out of control, and would thrive in our 40-gal SW FO/CC tank? I'm remembering the hassle we had trying plants in our old FW/goldfish tank, where they all gradually died off & clogged filter.

Appreciate advice.

Cheers,

- Bob

 

[atif]

i had the same problem (brown algae) with safeway distilled water. i added 25lbs LR from www.aquacon.com (excellent quality - but i had to go thru a mini cycle again) and switched to RO/DI from safeways. the bown alage burnt itself out and the skimmer took care of the rest. now the tank is fairly stable with accepatable levels of brown algae in spots.

 

[steve-s]

There are some slower growing macro algaes like brush and possibley maidens hair. The ones to avoid are mainly fern, grape and razor.

I think you should get some good responses if you post this in a new thread or do a forum search.

Cheers
Steve