Ich treatment for the main tank

[Squado]

So the lfs that sold me the culprit of adding ich to my tank decided to compensate me with a product that I coulde use in the main tank for free. The name of the treatment is Ruby Reef Kick ich. One of the only guys I trust at the store said he uses it in the his main and has cleared ich and never had a loss using it. Does any one else know of this product. It contains no copper and says it is reef safe, fish safe, and invert safe. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start the treatment (about 15 days it says). TIA....

 

[FishFrik]

I used that before. Used up the whole bottle and my tank still had ick.

 

[melosu58]

I know a few people that used it and they did not have any losses either but they also say it did not work. It was just a waste of time. The only thing I know that works is a fishless tank for 8 weeks that breaks the parasites life cycle.

 

[Squado]

Do you know if their were any side effects? I mean I got it for free and just thought it would be worth a try. I just figured with a UV also and feeding with zoe it could be the most beneficial. I was just worried about losses.

 

[FishFrik]

I didn't get any side effect from that stuff. 1 thing about it is u have to turn off your skimmer, filter; take out any AC in order for it to work (supposingly... if it actually works)

 

[Scoot]

FWIW - I tried 3 or 4 products when my tang had a few white ich spots, and a lot of black. None of the other fish every had it. I think they were called Ich-attach, Rid-Ich, and a couple others. I was using garlic additive at the time. The spots would come back after 4-5 days.

Nothing worked except a couple FW dips to get the current pararsites to drop off, and adding a UV. I did isolate him for about a week, and used coppersafe.

He DID develop a mild case of HLLE after the FW dips and coppersafe, so be careful, but Tangs are susceptible to that anyway, it could be his diet (its since improved).

UV isn't a complete solution, but it sure helps.

I'm over-doing it to the point of sillyness. I've got a (albeit cheap) 34W Jebo UV running on my main return line, so it catches everything sooner or later, and I'm running it at a low GPH, under 200. That should about obliterate anything passing through (even pods, which I'm working on a solution for).

I just took the UV apart to check if it needed cleaning, and the Jebo was built a lot better than I thought it would be. A nice quarts sleeve around the lamp, and the sleeve was perfectly clean after 2-3 months of use.

I haven't seen any spots (black or white) on my Tang for over 2 months, and they're the most susceptible to ich.

Again, FWIW. Some people just don't have the option to quarantine their entire community.

 

[2revup]

I have tried this stuff and other reef safe things, nothing works the only 2 methods that really work is
copper and hypo treatments.

It might be worth give you fish some garlic every time you feed, this will build there immune system up, and they may be able to fight it themselves. also get a cleaner shrimp he will provide some stress relif for the infected.

 

[Squado]

The two fish that I have (royal gramma, tang) are pretty much impossible to get out of the tank. Their shy to begin with so it would be kind of difficult to get them out. I do have a UV running and have been soaking their food in zoe. Im probably gonna pick up some garlic to add as well. Another thing, I currentl have a CBS in mt tank and I do not know if a cleaner would be compatible with him. What do you guys think?

 

[Scoot]

Squado, that was my issue. My gramma and my yellow tang are nearly impossible to catch. They're both incredibly fast. From one end of the 75g tank to the other in a blink of an eye.

That's why I tried other methods than QT'ing them.

 

[Squado]

Also, I forgot to mention that I am currently dosing the tank with some cyano stuff (ultralife) and do not want to add to many things at once. This hobby can be be really frustrating and right now I am having a couple of issues (ich, cyano, nitrates). The last time I starting adding to much things got out of whack and I do not want that to happen again. Everything in my tank is growing and seems to be doing fine, besides the listed problems. I just do not know where to start in terms of what dosing is acceptable and what is not.

 

[roka64]

Squado, what kind of filter are you using? Anything that contains sponges/bio wheel or balls can possibly produce nitrates. Keep rolling with the punches! You'll come out of it more knowledgable and be able to help others in the future!

 

[Squado]

Right now I am using the filter that came with the tank (marineland eclipse). I took the bio wheel out over a week ago and nothing has changed with the nitrates. I am thinking about taking out the pad as well as I really dont see it being needed at this point, I think I have enough lr to do the filtration (im just worried about mechanical filtration). I do not mind putting in the time and effort to fix problems, but I cant seem to fix any.

 

[roka64]

Try a 20% PWC this weekend and next. I would think the cyano should have stalled by now. Is more growing, or has it stopped?

I am thinking about taking out the pad

I'm sorry, I'm not fimilliar with that filter. Is the pad a sponge or carbon?

 

[Squado]

Its a pad with carbon in it and a bio wheel. Right now my blue green cyano is starting to disapate (using utralife), but my red cyano is spreading. I also have a hair algae problem which seems to be going away with the help of the tang. I have the large aquafuge coming in Aug 1st and I dont know whether I should start treamtents now or until I get it. When I do hook it up would it upset some of the treatments that I am using. My last and final question, I am currently going to be doing a lot of dosing to help some of theses problems as I can not get rid of them naturally. What products can be used together and should I do them all at once to in seperate intervals. They are ultralife blue green control, chemi clean cyano removal, and kick ich? I am losing it!!

 

[roka64]

You may have enough/close to enough of LR to possibly remove the bio wheel. That should help the algae problem, natrually. I woudl check with some others, to get the "OK".

 

[FishFrik]

Removing the biowheels will not lower your NO3 level but will stop it from increase. You have to perform some WC's, use NO3 sponges, or add macroalgae (fuge) to remove/reduce the exisiting NO3.

 

[big baga]

Your best bet and the only thing that actualy works in my opinion is cuprimine from seachem.Do your self a favor catch those fish,even if you have to rip the whole tank apart get those fish out.Treat with cuprimine 1 cc per 10 gallons the first night repat 48 hours later.Leave fish for 2 weeks.They say you can only get rid of the ich if you leave the tank fish free for 6 weeks.I know this is not what you want to do.I have tied every thing in the book when I first started.I had 2 have a cowfish and they are ich prone this is the only method that has ever worked.Hope this helps.You can even look the product up it is good stuff.

 

[Squado]

Are you saying add cuprimine to the main or getting a qt for them?

 

[FishFrik]

Are you saying add cuprimine to the main or getting a qt for them?

Im pretty sure he said QT them then add suprimine to the QT tank

 

[phish7740]

i think i just got ich too.

wondering if it would be eaiser to move the corals to the QT and doing hypo in the main tank....ohh but light...ok that wont work.

this sucks...i cant catch all these fish without removing all the rock....ughhh!

anyone ever hear of using ozone...my lfs mentioned it when i was thinking of a tang...but now my angel has it...only about 20 spots or so. all the other fish are clean.