LED's

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I can tell you I have the ultraviolet ones and two was not enough to show much on a 60x24x24. I am about about to try to sell them to get the panorama pro modules.
 
Ok thank you i was thinking one magenta 2 blues then 2 white and blues maybe go with 1 all white and one blue instead if the 2 blues?

Any thoughts on that set up?

it would be like this
White & blue
blue
magenta
blue
white & blue
 
I bought a 12.5 in royal blue a couple weeks back to give it a try. I love the way it makes my corals pop. I'll be ordering another 60" worth at least. I have t5s for the main light so I dont know how many strips it would take, but they sure do make em purty!
 
you would be better off going with the panorama's the stunners are 6w for 45, the panoramas are around 18w for $90. the stunners are for looks not for growth.
 
Thank you how many of those would i need for a 24 gallon nano and able to keep a clam?
 
I would say 3 to 4, That would put you at 54w to 72w , and it would fall within your budget. I would also look in to a DIY led also.
Three of these:
New 40mil 10W Super Actinic Blue Hybrid Led Panel for Aquarium | eBay

Plus this driver:
High Power Waterproof outdoor 30W 1A Led light Driver for floodlight bulb Lamp | eBay

And this Heatsink, You can probably get a cheaper heatsink, but you don't want to skimp on the heatsink, better to have too much than not enough:
200x99x45mm Heatsink, Aluminum Heat-Sink, Heat Sink for LED, Power Transistor | eBay

Some wires a dimmer and someone who can do basic soldering, So about the cost of one panorama.
 
I can do that kinda haha well i can weld and heat weld at least cant be to much different
 
That looks super simple i like it
What size tank is that for?

What does the heat sink do?
 
I use it on a 47g column tank , so basically like two of your cubes stacked on top of each other. I replaced a 250w metal halide.

It is fairly easy just when buying leds be sure you get the right driver for the type and quantity of leds you go with. On the leds look for "voltage forward" or "VF" and milliamps or "mA". How you wire the leds will decide how they work as well.

For example: I used 9 x 12volt leds that take 1000mA
My power supply provided 30-36v and 3000mA
So I wired three leds in a series (3x12v=36v and 1000mA) for each row.
When you wire the leds in a series the voltage increases with each led in the
series, but the mA remains the same. Get it?
So now I have 3 series of 3 leds each.
These three strands or series of leds are wired together all the positives
together all the negatives together and attach those to the + and - outputs
of the driver.
Wiring this way gives you the 36v 3000mA draw on the driver.
 
Ok so ifbi understand corectly you have 3 rows of leds and each row is 36v creating 1000ma and all conect to the same driver creating the 3000ma wich is what the driver is rated for?

Also what is the heat sink? The picture from the link you provided is confusing me haha Sorry for all the questions im a college student trained to do so and act like a sponge :p
Ps thanks for all the great info and hope others will read also and learn or add their inputs as well
 
Yes, the heatsink sorry forgot to explain, with 10w leds you need a pretty decent heatsink to dissapate the heat, If you look and the ecoxotics the stunner strips dont have a really noticeable heatsink but the panorama pros do, this is because the actual part or the led that emits the light is pretty small so for its size theres a lot of electricity going through so that generates a good deal of heat, Since the led itself is mostly plastic and silicone it will melt if you dont get rid of that heat so you need a piece of a good heat conducter (like aluminum) to take the heat away from the led itself, The more powerful the led the larger the heatsink you need. The cooler you keep your led, the longer it will last. I use computer thermal paste between the led and the aluminum to help the heat transfer even faster to keep the leds cool.
If you lit one of those 10w leds without a heatsink it would fry itself in less than a minute more than likely. So your heatsink is probably the most important part, and a good heatsink makes you led look better also as its the most visible part and what everyone sees first. So if you use a cheap piece of scrap metal as your heatsink, it may work, but it may shorten the life of your leds and make your diy fixture look like crap.
 
Here's a pic of my heatsink how it sits on the aquarium, I have 2 120mm computer fans on it to help, but it's large and heavy enough where I don't really need the fans, but the cooler the better, and they are not too loud. If I had like 160w on there I would probably have to use the fans. Or if the heatsink was smaller or lighter I would probably need fans.

View attachment 94632
 
I have this setup I'm working on, but don't really have anywhere to put it. I just have some parts left over from the other fixture.
These are Cree 3w LEDs , which are supposed to be some of the best you can buy, I haven't lit them up yet so I don't know.

View attachment 94638



image-3001799656.jpg
 
Ok makes sence woukd it be possible to gut my hood for the cube and fit the leds plus the hood still?
 
I've seen pictures online of other people that have done it, but I'm not familiar with what kind of space you have to work with in the hood, so I don't know. But it can be done.
 
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ok thank you! i will look up online to see if all else fails i can get a clear top to the tank or i can even cut the hood to fit the heat sink
 
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