Need help picking an RO unit

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swishyfishies

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
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Ok I know the ultimate way to go is using an RO/DI unit but I have questions. I'm way new on this subject.

What is the difference between RO & RO/DI? I read the DI is mainly just to give an extra polish to the water, if so then I don't see it as a must have.

I want it for the tank & my husband want's it for the drinking water....can't we use it for both?

We don't want anything too expensive...over say $300. We have a 55 gal tank plus the gallon or 2 we'd consume a day. What size unit would we need. 50 GPD, 100 GPD ?

Whats the difference between 3 RO, 4 RO/DI & 7 RO/DI stage RO's ?

How long would the cartridges last before they'd need replacing? I'd do a 5 or 10 gal water change a week on my 55 gal tank.

I saw different types of connections, isn't the kitchen tap the easiest?

What temp water can you run through it, just cold??

Anything else you can tell me....
 
Ok I guess we'll call premuim aquatics to place our order. I've learned you can't drink DI water, what the difference in stages is & more.
 
check out www.purewaterplanet.com lots of useful info. i got a 100gal a day unit with a di and the storage container for the drinking water for around 200. with shipping. was a good buy for me we love the water the coffee is great my mom comes over and gets water and the fish are swimming happy. :D ...lor
 
I found some interesting info for you:

How Deionization Works
Reverse Osmosis membranes, although very good at removing contaminants, still allow trace amounts to pass through. Nitrates, phosphates and silica are among these substances not fully removed. By further processing RO water through multi-layered, mixed-bed de-ionization cartridges, even those difficult to remove chemicals are reduced to virtually undetectable levels. The De-ionization cartridge contains resin beds of positive ions (cations) and negative ions (anions) which react with contaminants to chemically remove them from the water stream. The result is ultra-pure water that is extremely low in contaminants. This unit will reject up to 99% of salts and impurities.
This system can be installed to any fresh water source for your aquarium and drinking water.

Most drinking water at your local grocerie store, like Crystal and Zephyrhills, etc.. have drinking water that is RO/DI.. You may have also, seen the water machines outside of the grocery store. These can also be RO/DI as well. IT is ok to drink RO/DI water..
 
IMHO RO/DI water is the best drinking water out there. A ton better than those bottled water products in the stores even.

Take a look at this link

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=2476

There is a discount voucher posted that expries at the end of April. They have a few that are under $200

The more stages you have the different membranes its running thru. A classic 3 stage filter might have a Carbon filter, a sediment filter and the RO membrane. A 4 stage might add a DI membrane on to the 3 stage unit. A 5 stage might add a second sediment filter or a second carbon fiter.

RO membranes will last depending on your usage. I got my unit back in Oct 2001 and I got about 1 1/2 years out of it. A replacment membrane should run you about $70 for a 50GPD and $85 for 100GPD.
 
Thanks for the info timbo & fish freek. Then why do people say the RO/DI water tastes funny & that it'll dehydrate you?
 
Fish freek said: A replacment membrane should run you about $70 for a 50GPD and $85 for 100GPD.

Yeow! Shop around and you'll find prices half that for Filmtec membranes.


Fish freek said: RO water is as pure as your gonna get.

Well, sort of. Within the limits of our hobby, water that goes through a DI (Deionization) unit is "cleaner" than water passing through a RO membrane. Think of an RO membrane like a VERY effective filter, and a DI resin as a polisher to remove most of the remaining contaminants. :)

Swish - As far as which units to buy - I always catch myself thinking "if I only knew then (when I was thinking about buying my first RO/DI unit) whaat I know now..."

Prices are all over the board from different suppliers. A few things you want to consider:

What brand name of RO membrane is included, and what's the rejection rate.

What is the gpd rating of the membrane?

What are the pore sizes on the sediment and carbon block cartridges?

If you're getting a DI unit - is the resin color-changing? If not, get a TDS meter as well. And on this issue - you should get a TDS meter regardless. I routinely run weeks and weeks of water through my DI resin after it starts changing color. You'd be wasting money if you threw it out when it starts changing color.

Do you have any unique issues in your tap water that require special treatment?

Look at a pic of the unit - better units don't have lot's of tubings going everywhere - they are efficiently plumbed without lots of tubing.

Does the unit hve clear housings? Lots of people prefer these.

Does the unit come with a pressure guage?

I hear lots of mixed experience with TDS meters that come on the units.

Does it come with a flush valve?

Does it include an auto shut-off?

If you want to use it for drinking water too, you'll have some other equipment/issues to be concerned with.

Off the top of my head - these are the things I would think about.
 
When you find the one you think is best, Let me know where you got it and what kind. I currantly use tap water (from good old lake erie) and I am now finding a ton of hair algea.
 
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