Pros and cons of an algae scrubber

[Scooterdragon]

The original thread I started was;

The Dynamic Aquarium, algae turf scrubbing

Read this in tire tread and Greg your system is beyond words

 

[Gregcoyote]

Thanks again but it is still a work in progress.

 

[nelix10]

Where do I find this thread?

 

[JJ-MIK]

I can't font the link anywhere..

 

[Scooterdragon]

I had to search for it

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Also this thread, start on post #33. Needs updating badly but still covers most of the basics of the waterfall scrubber

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f20/algae-scrubber-basics-163817.html#post2074730

 

[Gregcoyote]

I think if I were to do it again I would do a version of the waterfall. The issue with it is buildup of algae on the glass surfaces that then blocks the light. I couldn't engineer a way around that except to have the waterfall exposed and that would creat a salt creep monster. I have considered a belt version of the horizontal scrubber I have. That would give me 100% more surface to grow algae on.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I have no issue with light blockage at all, any algae that grows on the acrylic surface between the lights and the screen gets cleaned off with each cleaning.

 

[Gregcoyote]

But it blocks the light to the screens. As a result the glass (or acrylic) window had to be cleaned too often. That's what I thought years ago when I built mine. One advantage the horizontal design has is there is no need to have anything between the lights and the screen.
But either way you are growing algae in a controlled manner.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

That depends on how you build it. I run several of this type of scrubber and have zero problems with dying off at lower layers. That happens only when you wait too long between cleanings.

Also light source has a lot to do with it. With CFLs, layer die off happens faster. With LEDs (if close enough, spaced out enough, and at the right intensity) lower layer death is virtually non-existent unless you let it grow past 14 days.

Horizontal scrubbers have the same issue with shading. This is less of a problem if it is an actual dump-style that actuates and you get a lot of motion of the algae mat. But a static horizontal or slanted trough would have shading issues also, if not worse.

 

[Gregcoyote]

I use the dump method as you indicated, that way each side of the turf mat gets light.

 

[JJ-MIK]

I'm thinking mine will go straight up and down... Vertical .. 2 rows across . Or do you think 2 rows of screen is not necessary ?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

2 layers of screen? No. You only want a single screen or else you will end up blocking light between the screens. Make sure it's plenty rough too.

 

[JJ-MIK]

Not 2 layers together. Separated my like 10". Two plumbed screens in a large tub. With lights in each side and one on top. I seen a video on YouTube if a guy doing this. But wasn't sure if it was over kill

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Depends on tank size and feeding amount really. So you're talking about parallel screens. The issue then is getting light to both sides of the inside sides of each screen.

Scrubbers sized for feeding rates are much smaller than those sized per tank volume so remember that with your design. That can change everything.

Also vertical 2-sided screens need be only 1/4 the size of horizontal single sided. 12 sq in for each cube of food fed per day, or the equivalent, as long as the flow is good, roughness is good, and lighting is per guideline

 

[JJ-MIK]

How much flow do you think? 100gph. 400 gph? I read too much will cause algae to not stick. Too little you get more bacteria..

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

All relative to screen width. Go through that 'basics' series of posts - about 12 or so of them.

You need 35 GPH for each inch of screen width. That's the general guideline.

Detachment has 99% to do with screen roughness. This video I show how I use to do it, now I make a few passes across the screen with a wire brush on a drill (crimp style) at low to medium speed (NOT high speed) to take the 'shine' off the screen, deep into the mesh. Then I go at it with the saw blade, but only in small circles, starting at one side and then progressing across, roughing up about 5-8 rows with each pass.

Algae Scrubber Screen Rough-up Process - Quick and Easy - YouTube

Initial screen break-in can be done at a lower flow rate, but again this is all related to roughness, if it's rough enough, not a worry generally. If you're having a hard time getting growth to start then you might back off the flow, but then lighting might be too much and might burn what growth you have. So you have to adjust lighting intensity and/or duration when you adjust flow. Same goes for the other direction - increasing flow.

 

[JJ-MIK]

Ok. Thank you! My tank is 150 gallons. But in my basement I'm thinking I'm going to have an additional 300 plus or minus gallons . I can't wait to get started on this! Haha

 

[JJ-MIK]

So will this take hair algae away from in the tank? And what about phosphate testing? Will that be something not to worry about anymore?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

When you get into that volume, IMO, the tank volume starts to become a little more of a factor that drives up the screen size, because of turnover rate. You can only put so much water over a given width of screen before you start hitting a point of diminishing returns.

So what I would do is figure out your screen size based on feeding, then double it, and make it as wide as you can for the flow you have available. The more width, the more flow you can put across the screen.

We're kind of theadjacking here so maybe you want to start a new thread and I can help you with any questions on that....