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Old 02-24-2014, 09:12 PM   #41
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I'm starting either a 75 or a 90...

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20 gallon nano-reef torn down to make way for the 40B Reef (original thread and current update).
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:29 PM   #42
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Well let me see how this rock works in my tank and I'll let you know.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:45 PM   #43
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I sure like it. A long time ago I built my reef with several hundred pounds of live Fiji rock. The die off was spectacular. Plus it's harvested off of rubble piles that should probably stay on the reef. This quarried stuff is great, you control what it gets infested with! And we will probably never run out of it, so it's what I use now. It is red coralline covered in a year or less and you can't tell it from a natural harvested live rock.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:35 AM   #44
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Well let me see how this rock works in my tank and I'll let you know.
Roger that...
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:12 PM   #45
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You guys think I'm ok just letting the rock sit for like 2 weeks and then change all the water and start the cycle? Or do you think I need to add that stuff that bonds with the phosphates? I have the heater at 82 and salinity at 1.026 and the water flow is good. The skimmer is going nuts. Lol.
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:50 AM   #46
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Change the water daily with freshwater until most of the phosphates comes out the rock. Gives you many opportunities to brush away all the dead stuff. Eventually move the rocks to saltwater and cycle it. I plan on using this method.

Or use SeaKlear.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:10 AM   #47
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Actually, it's best to cure in saltwater, so the BB colonies establish in the rock. BRS has a video on this.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:01 AM   #48
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Actually, it's best to cure in saltwater, so the BB colonies establish in the rock. BRS has a video on this.
That is for other rocks.

We are talking about pakuni. Most important to get the phosphates out.

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Old 02-26-2014, 04:35 PM   #49
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Ok more confused now. I'm curing in the salt water. I mean I can easily switch the water out but I had no clue about going it in regular RO. Nothing I read said that. Can you use the seaclear in saltwater as well?
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:41 PM   #50
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I don't see anything on the BRS site stating to cure in freshwater, and all their videos use saltwater. Phosphates, if any, will come out regardless.
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:17 PM   #51
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When I cured mine I used saltwater and tested weekly for phosphates. Once my tank was ready I put the rock in and cycled with no problems. I know I read all about how phosphates are really bad with this rock but I didn't see any using my Hanna checker.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:14 PM   #52
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When I cured mine I used saltwater and tested weekly for phosphates. Once my tank was ready I put the rock in and cycled with no problems. I know I read all about how phosphates are really bad with this rock but I didn't see any using my Hanna checker.
If the Hanna didn't see any...that's very good.

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Old 02-26-2014, 06:48 PM   #53
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I've not seen this problem either.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:33 PM   #54
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I don't see anything on the BRS site stating to cure in freshwater, and all their videos use saltwater. Phosphates, if any, will come out regardless.
Many people have had large amounts of phosphates with Pakuni. I've come across threads with hobbyists soaking/curing in saltwater for months and still end up with high phosphates. These are other hobbyists experiences, not what BRS says. The amount of phosphates pakuni will vary from rock to rock since each rocks will vary in amount of dead stuff on it. Some people have are able to cure for 1-2 months and end up with little detectable phosphates, so not everyone will have the high phosphate issue.

SeaKlear has been used with Pakuni cure to shorten the amount of time to cure these rocks since nobody wants to wait several months for the regular cure. Dose daily when curing in saltwater and many people finish the cure in 3-4 weeks with zero detectable phosphates. Hobbyists claim that SeaKlear is reef safe, but I am uncertain.

Rocks leach phosphates in freshwater or saltwater. Phosphates will come out faster in water with 0 phosphates and then the rocks leaches slower as the phosphates come out to the water column, kind of like how osmosis works. Starting the curing process in freshwater helps loosen the dead stuff and you get the opportunity to rinse them off the dead stuff + remove them with water changes. The less dead stuff removed from the curing container with the pakuni, the less overall phosphates you will have to deal with. More water changes means faster rate of phosphates leaching from the rocks since the new water will have 0 phosphates. This is why I propose starting in freshwater for the first few weeks, then move to saltwater to finish the cure.

Starting the cure in saltwater helps start the cycle for beneficial bacteria that takes care of the nitrates. I'd rather take care of the phosphates first since there can be very high levels of them leach from pakuni, then beneficial bacteria later. This does not apply to BRS's reefsaver and probably not fiji.

Hope this makes sense. Its makes perfect sense to me unless there is some flawed logic that someone can point out.
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:07 AM   #55
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Have you tested phosphates? If there leaching then let them cure if not throw some ammonia in there and let them cycle. Just my $.02
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:21 AM   #56
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I made an error, it's reef saver rock I used. It's quarried and never had living organisms on it, at least for a few million years. It doesn't surprise me that pukani rock has dried organics still trapped in it.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:19 AM   #57
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This does not apply to BRS's reefsaver and probably not fiji.
I've only used their Fiji and know it doesn't release any PO4.

At the risk of sounding like Spock, your logic is sound. This is definitely something I will have to keep in mind when prepping for my larger reef tank. I will definitely get the Pukani first and just let it soak, changing water as needed.
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