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09-23-2011, 07:02 PM
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#1
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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RO/DI filter changing color after 25 gal
Is there a problem with myNew Ro/ Di waterFilter ??or my well water??The Di filter is changing color 1/4 the way up the canister to Orange just after 25 gal..(i dident get to use any water yet and the filter is turning)the canisters water level is filled up to the last 1/2 inch mark close to totally full.. is that too high? Any Thoughts..Thanks.
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09-23-2011, 07:19 PM
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#2
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Hmm my di filter is I guess an orangeish in color, I never gave it much thought. Mine also generally goes about 3/4 of the way up with water.
Not sure if that helps any.
Did you pick up a cheap tds meter? that will tell you if the di resin is doing it's job.
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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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09-25-2011, 05:04 PM
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#3
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Hmm my di filter is I guess an orangeish in color, I never gave it much thought. Mine also generally goes about 3/4 of the way up with water.
Not sure if that helps any.
Did you pick up a cheap tds meter? that will tell you if the di resin is doing it's job.

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Hi Carey ,My system i bought came with the meter,i like it alot ,so even if the color changes orangish i realize it still going to do its job for a while,,Ill just keep my eye on the meter,,,My ph is low like 5.9 on the fresh watertest kit so, ill keep mty top off water in a 5gal pail( thanks to the nice screw on top the instant ocean salt company gives you when you buy)( and i always do my change over pails using 4 gal.it equals out to use 2 cups of instant ocean salt mix for a i guess 1.023 salinity or gravity + or - a notch..) how ,,,should i buffer the water up with the Seachem buffer powder at this point? before i put it in tank?.( for top off water)...Then, for the water change mix with salt in then check the Ph Of the Pail ..then buffer that uip to 8.3 if needed an proceed with the change?Thanks ....Gerry
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09-25-2011, 05:06 PM
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#4
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Have you tested the hi range ph on a mixed bucket of salt? the salt mix should make it to 8.3 or so by itself..
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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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09-25-2011, 05:20 PM
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#5
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Have you tested the hi range ph on a mixed bucket of salt? the salt mix should make it to 8.3 or so by itself..
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not yet...ill do what your sayin,,, mix salt first an see what i get there ,,, .thanks
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09-25-2011, 05:37 PM
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#6
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Have you tested the hi range ph on a mixed bucket of salt? the salt mix should make it to 8.3 or so by itself..
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I will Very soon ,still waiting for the ro/ di water to fill my trash can to determine the hrs it taks to fill it ill do it tomorrow..( Boy,well water is ice cold up here. )
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09-25-2011, 05:42 PM
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#7
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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Do you have a heater in your can?
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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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09-25-2011, 05:44 PM
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#8
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey
Do you have a heater in your can?
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no, i should though Huhh...i have a extra one..
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09-25-2011, 06:08 PM
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#9
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Aquarium Advice Addict

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 20,966
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yep, you wanna temp match the water if youre gonna use it for a pwc or for top offs.
__________________
180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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09-26-2011, 06:41 PM
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#10
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 801
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I'm assuming the TDS of your RO/ DI water is 0ppm.
What's the TDS of the RO water (immediately after the membrane, before the DI stage)? Also, what's the TDS of your faucet water?
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Rift Lake and Reef tanks.
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09-26-2011, 07:08 PM
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#11
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kay-bee19
I'm assuming the TDS of your RO/ DI water is 0ppm.
What's the TDS of the RO water (immediately after the membrane, before the DI stage)? Also, what's the TDS of your faucet water?
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before the membrane is 004. it has a built in meter.it measures the water intering the di section only its at 004 and after is at 004..
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09-26-2011, 07:35 PM
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#12
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 801
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4ppm RO water is good, but it is interesting that the TDS reading is also 4ppm after the DI stage ( RO/ DI water at this point).
That kind of suggests that the DI isn't functioning (4ppm in/4ppm out). Yet color-changing resin changes when TDS is being removed/adsorbed.
I'm out of ideas!
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Rift Lake and Reef tanks.
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09-26-2011, 07:38 PM
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#13
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerridee
before the membrane is 004... it has a built in meter.it measures the water intering the di section only its at 004 and after is at 004..
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Did you mean to say " after the membrane is 004"?
The direction of water flow is faucet>pre-sediment filter>carbon block(s)> RO membrane> DI resin.
Am I correct to understand that the one inline TDS sensor is immediately before the DI resin stage and the other is immediately after DI resin stage?
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Rift Lake and Reef tanks.
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09-26-2011, 10:02 PM
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#14
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kay-bee19
Did you mean to say " after the membrane is 004"?
The direction of water flow is faucet>pre-sediment filter>carbon block(s)> RO membrane> DI resin.
Am I correct to understand that the one inline TDS sensor is immediately before the DI resin stage and the other is immediately after DI resin stage?
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There is only 1 meter there are 3 sediment filter mounted in seccession, red line from faucet enters passes through 3 sediment filters then you have the DI resin filter with the meter mounted on it the Di. The meter says whats going in it is (004.) and out is ( 003.) It was pretty straight forword on puttin it together..but only 1 meter..
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10-05-2011, 07:41 AM
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#15
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerridee
There is only 1 meter there are 3 sediment filter mounted in seccession, red line from faucet enters passes through 3 sediment filters then you have the DI resin filter with the meter mounted on it the Di. The meter says whats going in it is (004.) and out is ( 003.) It was pretty straight forword on puttin it together..but only 1 meter..
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Something isn't right here.
Can you take a pic or two of your system, or tell us what the brand name and model is?
Assuming you have a system with an RO membrane AND a DI stage, right?
If you just have 3 sediment filters and a DI resin stage, yes - you'll blow through that DI resin very very quickly.
DI is intended to be a polishing stage rather than the primary treatment stage.
Russ
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10-05-2011, 09:59 AM
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#16
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckeye Field S
Something isn't right here.
Can you take a pic or two of your system, or tell us what the brand name and model is?
Assuming you have a system with an RO membrane AND a DI stage, right?
If you just have 3 sediment filters and a DI resin stage, yes - you'll blow through that DI resin very very quickly.
DI is intended to be a polishing stage rather than the primary treatment stage.
Russ
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Hello thanks for your help,Why will it blow through the di resin so fast??its a reef bulk system,hopefully ive loaded the pics of my system,I dont know what it can be other I have well water right out of the ground no household filtering only a sediment filter( Maybe home depot or lowes has a carbon filter i can use instead of just a strainer filter,might help) what store might sell a meter locally? I know i can order online..
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10-05-2011, 10:02 AM
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#17
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerridee
Hello thanks for your help,Why will it blow through the di resin so fast??its a reef bulk system,hopefully ive loaded the pics of my system,I dont know what it can be other I have well water right out of the ground no household filtering only a sediment filter( Maybe home depot or lowes has a carbon filter i can use instead of just a strainer filter,might help) what store might sell a meter locally? I know i can order online..
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i refilled the resin filter with new resin an the stuff started to turn on the bottom again after only a few gallons....
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10-05-2011, 10:23 AM
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#18
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 50
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ITs likely that your RO membrane isn't seated (pushed in) fully and is letting waste water get through to the DI cartridge.
Across the bottom in the clear housings you have a sediment filter and two carbon blocks (rather than 3 sediment filters). Did you not get instructions with a diagram with the system?
You have a dual inline TDS meter. IT is a single meter with 2 probes - so it reads your RO water (water coming in to the DI), and your DI water. What is the TDS of your RO water?
Also - read the instructions that came with the tds meter and make sure you have the two probes aligned correctly.
Russ
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10-05-2011, 10:38 AM
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#19
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Harveys Lake, Pa.
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckeye Field S
ITs likely that your RO membrane isn't seated (pushed in) fully and is letting waste water get through to the DI cartridge.
Across the bottom in the clear housings you have a sediment filter and two carbon blocks (rather than 3 sediment filters). Did you not get instructions with a diagram with the system?
You have a dual inline TDS meter. IT is a single meter with 2 probes - so it reads your RO water (water coming in to the DI), and your DI water. What is the TDS of your RO water?
Also - read the instructions that came with the tds meter and make sure you have the two probes aligned correctly.
Russ
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the meter is reading 003 going into the di stage and reading 000 comming out...earlier i removed the osmosis element cap an inspected it maybe you had a point about not being seated right,could have been...(So that elenent should be pushed in firmly?)witch i believe i did before replacing the cap..
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10-05-2011, 11:22 AM
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#20
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 50
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If your RO water is reading 3 it sounds like the RO is working fine.
Was it reading 3 when you were burning through DI resin quickly?
Russ
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