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Old 05-03-2010, 07:30 PM   #1
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The New 55g

I think its a 55g Long, but im not sure. Im going to need help with how to set up a sump with a over flow, and where i can find a good but cheap Light for a 48'' long. I really dont understand how to set a sump up with all the pvc and stuff and im trying to find a great deal. The LFS gave me $70 off this tank. The white stuff is actually water, it was raining when i carried it in.


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Old 05-03-2010, 07:34 PM   #2
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Yep.. your average 55G tank. Pretty sweet.

Anyways, about the overflow/sump business, what do you want to do with it? Drill it? Or use a HOB overflow? A HOB overflow is a box that uses a U-tube to siphon water through a U shaped tube over the rim of the tank, this way you don't have to drill the tank. They're usually for people who don't want to drill, or have tempered glass which means they can't drill even if they wanted to.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:39 PM   #3
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the LFS guy said dont drill its tempered, and i need a over flow. I only took the the tank because of the huge discount he gave to make up for the sea horses. He showed me some over flows, but im not sure how many Gallons turn over rate or suction rate i should be using.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:40 PM   #4
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yep standard 55 for lighting i would look on www.petsolutions.com they are having some good deals on light, but you need to keep in mind if you want coral you need high lighting. as for a sump i dont use one i dont like them i just have a hob protien skimmer with a cannister filter. works great. also try www.bigals.com not sure if address is right. they can have some good deals on stuff too.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:41 PM   #5
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i know ill a 35g or higher sump? or i dont even know point in the right direction zer0
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:43 PM   #6
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whats the price difference between a sump and HOB protien skimmer and canister filter
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:54 PM   #7
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A sump is another tank that is connected to the main tank. You usually keep it under the stand, or somewhere out of site, but nothing is set in stone as to where you have to keep the sump. Whatever works for you is the best route to go. If the tank is tempered then yeah, don't drill it. You will need a HOB overflow. Look around the online retailers for the overflows. For a 55G tank you could get away with a 1" bulkhead.. which would be 600GPH.. but i know some people like more flow in their tanks, so i guess you could go bigger. It's up to you.

If you look at our "vendors" link, you will find a lot of places that sell SW equipment, and that's where you should start looking. If it's too pricey, try ebay or craigslist.

A HOB protein skimmer is a protein skimmer that just sits on the back of the tank.. sortof like one of those filters you normally see on freshwater tanks that run carbon and what not. The canister filter is a filter that has two tubes, one that sucks water from the tank and another that pushes it back in to the tank. These are normally used on freshwater tanks as well, but i'm beginning to see more and more of these canister filters being used in SW tanks. It's really all up to what you want to do, and what your money budget permits.. but in all honesty, i would say go with the overflow box and the sump. A 35G sump would be perfect. You could mod the 35G tank to make it a sump/refugium. And the sump is where you keep all of your heaters, skimmers, filters, reactors, etc.. if you have any, so you don't have to keep them in the main tank. Plus, you can do your top-offs in the sump instead of the main tank.

And the benefit of having a refugium in there, is that you can fill it up with tons of macro algae and other critters in which the macro algae will help keep your nitrates and phosphates to virtually zero, after some time of course, and the critters in the fuge will help break down detritus and other waste that may come from the main tank. It's really a whole awesome process and the benefits are endless on sump/fuge.. IMO.

Ok now as for the plumbing.. it really is simple so i won't drag it out at all. You're going to need the HOB overflow box, some clear or black vinyl flex tubing, and then you will need a return pump. You need to connect the tubing to the bulkhead on the HOB overflow, and that is the piece that will suck up water from the tank to bring it down to the sump. One thing you should do is ask more experienced people about a siphon break because i have no clue how one would work on a HOB overflow. You will need a siphon break in the event that your return pump shuts off, your overflow won't continuously drain water from the tank, because that would result in an overflow of your sump, and very wet floors.

Next, lets talk about the return pump because that is very essential in this whole sump business. You need to calculate the length from the sump, to the rim of the tank, because the return pump you get needs to push the water all the way up and back in to your tank. So if it's 6 feet from the bottom of the sump to the top of your tank, you will need a pump that can push water 6 feet up, and then some. If it's 6 feet.. you don't just want a pump that can push it only 6 ft because then you will have hardly any flow coming out of it. I was just using 6 feet as an example, so you will need to correctly calculate the length as i said before, and then report back to us so we can tell you what pump would be sufficient for your application.

So.. once it's all said and done and you have the return pump that works best for your application, you then take tubing SEPERATE from the overflow tubing, and then connect it to that pump. Then, you should get to 90degree PVC elbows, and have those PVC elbows go over the rim of your tank. This will be your return setup.

So basically, you will have the HOB overflow which drains in to the sump, and then the return pump which pushes the water back in to your tank. It's pretty simple, but i'll see if i can find an article on it, just incase i rambled more than i made sense.


Alright well here's a good article you should read on refugiums, since i mentioned putting one in your sump, which would be a very good idea.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...uge/Page1.html

AND for better information.. and hopefully for clarification if i rambled.. here's an article on sumps.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...ned/Page1.html


Oh an dude.. please.. cycle your tank correctly this time around, please. It may take a little while, maybe it won't, but what we do know is that it will save you tons of money in the end, and will save your fish from meeting their deaths prematurely.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...ank/Page1.html
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Ok now as for the plumbing.. it really is simple so i won't drag it out at all. You're going to need the HOB overflow box, some clear or black vinyl flex tubing, and then you will need a return pump. You need to connect the tubing to the bulkhead on the HOB overflow, and that is the piece that will suck up water from the tank to bring it down to the sump. One thing you should do is ask more experienced people about a siphon break because i have no clue how one would work on a HOB overflow. You will need a siphon break in the event that your return pump shuts off, your overflow won't continuously drain water from the tank, because that would result in an overflow of your sump, and very wet floors.
your siphon break is for your return not the hob overflow. if no water is being returned to the tank there is no over flow. plus you dont really ever want that to break siphon. if pwer goes out and the flow stops and siphon breaks. then when the power comes back on you have no siphon to keep it from flooding

on the return you want a siphon break incase power goes out and the return pump starts back siphon(which it will do) this drains water rom your main tank to your sump. just drill a hole in the pvp or whater you have going from the reurn pump to the tank. drill the hole right under the water line in the main tank. this will suck in air and break the siphon there. also you can masure the gallons of water by how far down you place the return flow and leave that much space in the sump so you dont over flood.

what i mean by that is if you have a 48x18 tank ever inch of water is roughly 3.5 gallons i believe. so if i have a 40 gallon sump and i place me return flow 3 inches down i better leave 11 gallons of room in my sump.

i hope that makes sense
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:51 PM   #9
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Well there ya have it. Harmy cleared that up very well, so now you know about the siphon break thing.

Thanks harmy.
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:10 PM   #10
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+1 zer0. Yes i am deffinetly cycling the tank for at least 3 weaks after my new live rock comes. Im going to use the shrimp method. I will probably do it in a bag with holes. I dont have just a clown this time and i cant put him through that again. Thanks a lot guys for the returns on the subject. I'm deffinetly going to have re-read it about 4 times when i have the peices to understand.

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Old 05-04-2010, 06:31 PM   #11
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watch this
YouTube - Reef Tank D.I.Y. Sump part 1
and
YouTube - Reef Tank D.I.Y. Sump part 2
then watch this
YouTube - Nano Lagoon (DIY Overflow)
and
YouTube - My DIY marine aquarium

you should be able to build a non drilled out sump from those 4 videos
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