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07-04-2012, 12:53 AM
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#21
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 154
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I actually don't think I have much of a nitrate problem. Highest it's gotten is 40 and then that's about the time I do a water change and maintenance. That's ususally about every 2-3 weeks. Just looking to get the best water quality with what I have and can afford.
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07-04-2012, 01:11 AM
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#22
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekean45
I actually don't think I have much of a nitrate problem. Highest it's gotten is 40 and then that's about the time I do a water change and maintenance. That's ususally about every 2-3 weeks. Just looking to get the best water quality with what I have and can afford.
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I hear ya ,some things are crazy expensive , I got mine down buy reducing my feeding to every other day , and adding some cheato to suck up what is lingering about , cheato is also suuuuuper cheep , at my LFS anyway .
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07-04-2012, 07:50 AM
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#23
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 489
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There is no real 'fix' to nutrient issues other than eliminating livestock. Our tanks are closed systems, what goes in must go out. Lower feelings is just as much as an easy fix as dosing or media use. For those looking to attain a ULNS it's a highly effective method of achieving that when done properly.
I prefer a multi pronged approach - multiple source carbon dosing (vinegar & pellets), macro algae, mangroces, automated daily water changes, a sump/Fuge system 1.5x the size of my DT, an over powered skimmer and soon an algae scrubber.
In my opinion, everything from stocking to dosing is a bandaid required to cover the fact that you're trying to recreate the ocean in a glass box.
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07-04-2012, 12:10 PM
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#24
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeYQM
There is no real 'fix' to nutrient issues other than eliminating livestock. Our tanks are closed systems, what goes in must go out. Lower feelings is just as much as an easy fix as dosing or media use. For those looking to attain a ULNS it's a highly effective method of achieving that when done properly.
I prefer a multi pronged approach - multiple source carbon dosing (vinegar & pellets), macro algae, mangroces, automated daily water changes, a sump/Fuge system 1.5x the size of my DT, an over powered skimmer and soon an algae scrubber.
In my opinion, everything from stocking to dosing is a bandaid required to cover the fact that you're trying to recreate the ocean in a glass box.
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I agree. All you are trying to do is recreate the ocean at a miniscule scale - even if you had a 10k gallon tank (and mine is only 60).
Since I don't have a sump (due to room constraints), I currently use biopellets, a bit of chaeoto in a DIY refugium made from an old protein skimmer (another story but it works), a HOB filter built for a 90 gallon tank, and HOB protein skimmer built for a 100+ gallon tank. I also added a DIY dosing system so I don't shock the tank with the vodka (or any other chemicals) - and this also tops off the tank daily since it adds about a gallon of fresh water a day. I also do 15-18% water changes about every 2-3 weeks.
Like I said in a previous post, before I started this vodka method, my nitrates would get to about 40ppm - not a real problem - and it would then go to about 10-15 after the change. After I have started this vodka method, and I follow the directions closely, I did a water change last night and this morning, the nitrates are at 0.
I know not everyone agrees with this and it is early - I understand things could go south at any time - but right now, everything in the tank looks vibrant, active, everything is eating the way it should, and I am monitoring it closely.
Wish me luck!
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07-04-2012, 02:41 PM
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#25
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekean45
I agree. All you are trying to do is recreate the ocean at a miniscule scale - even if you had a 10k gallon tank (and mine is only 60).
Since I don't have a sump (due to room constraints), I currently use biopellets, a bit of chaeoto in a DIY refugium made from an old protein skimmer (another story but it works), a HOB filter built for a 90 gallon tank, and HOB protein skimmer built for a 100+ gallon tank. I also added a DIY dosing system so I don't shock the tank with the vodka (or any other chemicals) - and this also tops off the tank daily since it adds about a gallon of fresh water a day. I also do 15-18% water changes about every 2-3 weeks.
Like I said in a previous post, before I started this vodka method, my nitrates would get to about 40ppm - not a real problem - and it would then go to about 10-15 after the change. After I have started this vodka method, and I follow the directions closely, I did a water change last night and this morning, the nitrates are at 0.
I know not everyone agrees with this and it is early - I understand things could go south at any time - but right now, everything in the tank looks vibrant, active, everything is eating the way it should, and I am monitoring it closely.
Wish me luck!
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Now that they are at 0 it will be easier to maintain ,
I think the concern that people have is that this will be used to fix a underlying issue that could be causing high nitrate readings like maybe a dirty sponge ( speaking hypothetically ) in a filter, or too small or infrequent WC, too many fish , over feeding. To do this along with proper maintenance IMO is not a bad thing. I thing the goal is to achieve happy balance , of stocking , feeding , maintenance , and dosing , not to just dose with something to fix a high reading.
The first question I think that should be asked when getting a high nitrate reading is
" what is causing this "
Followed by
" how do I fix this "
Ask yourself this , if you got up every morniing and your car battery was dead . Wouldent You want to know what was doing it rather than just getting a boost every nottingham
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07-04-2012, 02:46 PM
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#26
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newfiereefer
Now that they are at 0 it will be easier to maintain ,
I think the concern that people have is that this will be used to fix a underlying issue that could be causing high nitrate readings like maybe a dirty sponge ( speaking hypothetically ) in a filter, or too small or infrequent WC, too many fish , over feeding. To do this along with proper maintenance IMO is not a bad thing. I thing the goal is to achieve happy balance , of stocking , feeding , maintenance , and dosing , not to just dose with something to fix a high reading.
The first question I think that should be asked when getting a high nitrate reading is
" what is causing this "
Followed by
" how do I fix this "
Ask yourself this , if you got up every morniing and your car battery was dead . Wouldent You want to know what was doing it rather than just getting a boost every nottingham
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Every morning ( couldent see what I was typing ... iPhone was taking a hissy fit )
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