Water

[artur]

I have a reef tank for 6 years. Always used DI water. Only problem I had is that some of my SPS want grow < die after some time> It is like 50-50. You think it might be because DI not RODI? I know there might be many reasons but it could this too...

[slitherbomb]

What's your lighting and stocking? I've heard that you should have fish with your SPS coral because they eat the fish waste.

[artur]

MH 150w and T5s. Yellow, Hippo, Powder Brown Tang, Flame Angel, Maroon Clown, Midas Blenny, Strawberry Basselet, Mandarin Goby.

[slitherbomb]

Do you have a phosphate test? If you have even a little, it may hinder growth and even kill Sps coral. If you do, then you should probably start using ro/di water. You should actually start using it anyways.

[ccCapt]

How often do you change the DI resin? It will deplete very fast if "bad" water is being processed thru it. Once it's depleted it will leech the contaminants back into the water.
What are your water parameters?
Do you dose anything?

[cabezon]

Why would you use only DI? How?

[artur]

What you mean how? I have DI 3 stage filter. The diffrence is - no waste water. I checked Phosfate in water in my old DI. It is 0 as after RODI. I just wish it is still ok to use DI. In my new RODI in 15 hours I made 25 gal It takes 15 min. DI filter to make 25 gal. I purchased every couple months sediment filter from menards to take worst staff firs. Have that DI filter for 3 years. Did not change DI yet. Make around 3.000 gal. It is made from one of local LFS stores.

[artur]

Salnity 1.025. Alk - 9dkh or 3 mq/l ,Nitrate, nitrite,amonia -0 MAG- 1260, Calcium- 480 Ph-8.2, Phosfate-0 Run Carbon

Originally Posted by ccCapt

How often do you change the DI resin? It will deplete very fast if "bad" water is being processed thru it. Once it's depleted it will leech the contaminants back into the water.
What are your water parameters?
Do you dose anything?

[cabezon]

Yeah, I was wondering how you had it set up so that it was only DI. I think capt was asking the PPM of the water going into the DI, not the tank water.

You measured phosphates, what is the phosphates of the tap water. And what is the PPM of the water after the DI, not just thephosphates. I am quite skeptical that your DI made 0 PPM water after 3000 gallons. Most don't last 6 months with RO water. If it did, you have no reason to add RO, and save the water.

[ccCapt]

Have that DI filter for 3 years. Did not change DI yet. Make around 3.000 gal

That's a problem for sure. And no way does the resin last 3 years.
Do you have a TDS meter? If so, what does it read on the "good" water?

[artur]

Yes you were right. TDS after RODI 0 or sometimes 0.001. TDS after DI 139. It is that just my LFS store said it lasts 6.000 galons. That is why I did not change it. Am I stupid? So it looks that I should keep my new RODI. Unless when I replace DI resin <55.00 bucks> It will show - but I dont belive it will, do you???

Originally Posted by ccCapt

That's a problem for sure. And no way does the resin last 3 years.
Do you have a TDS meter? If so, what does it read on the "good" water?

[ccCapt]

The new DI resin should drop it back down to 0, but if you aren't filtering (a sediment filter won't help much) the water going into the DI resin it will again deplete very quickly. A "DI only" filter can become very expensive just due to the fact you will have to replace the resin very often.

[artur]

I guess I keep RODI filter. But still I will buy DI resin and see if it is 0 since now I have TDS meter. In my old DI I have 2 sediment filters and carbon filter before DI resin. Will see .. thanks a lot!!!

[ccCapt]

Don't forget, you also need to change the sediment and carbon filters at least every 6 months depending on the quality of the "raw" water going into it.

[cabezon]

Certainly not stupid. It just shows that we need to test. 136 after the DI means that resin is shot. I just replaced mine and it was less than a year. I only had a 75 and that was a 5 stage RODI.