What is this algae? I never can seem to get rid of it!!

[flanque]

Hello,

Attached are some pictures of some red algae that I just cannot seem to get rid of. I've had this problem for like a year now and it just wont go away.

My lights are over 12 months old so that probably doesn't help, but can I please get some guidence on what this is and how to get rid of it, for good?

I've got a protein skimmer and it doesnt seem to be collecting much muck at the moment. It did when I first started using it but now it seems to collect only a small amount each week.

Thank you.

[Fluff]

Looks like cyanobacteria. What are your phosphate and nitrate readings? Is there plenty of water flow in that area? How often do you feed your tank? How often do you do water changes? Do you use RO/DI water for water changes and top offs? If not, have you tested your tap water for phosphates and nitrates? Do you use additives in your tank? These things can play a large part in the success or decline of cyano.

[flanque]

I'll have to check phosphate but nitrates are 0. Water flow.. well food moves around easily and not "slowly" in the area. I feed my tank once per day, just before the lights go off.

I use ocean water from the LFS for changes and tap water treated for chlorine / chloride for top-offs. I asked the LFS about phosphates in these and she said no she's tested it.

I use a KH buffer and as needed a CA buffer.

Any ideas? Some of my fish do large craps which are very hard to siphon up because I have a fine sand bed which usually comes up before the crap does so it typically just stays in there. I know that's bad.

[Fluff]

The fish crap isn't so bad but you could try syphoning with airline tubing so your not pulling out so much sand. Have you tested your tap water than you are topping the tank off with? It could be adding extra nutrients to the tank. How often do you do water changes? Extra water changes may help. Also, how long is your light cycle? If your bulbs are over a year old, replacing them may help as well.

[seaham358]

Like Fluff says I would start with the bulbs and see how that helps.
As bulbs age there lighting spectruim can change and this can help cyno grow.
Check tap water for PO4.
Clean your skimmer and skimmer pump, cleaning on a regular basis can help. Maybe getting a new pump will help also.

[flanque]

Hmm... well the lights I knew could be a cause of the algae due to spectrum shift, but surely I don't have to replace the entire filter?? Sounds a little excessive don't you think? Surely I could just clean it, since I know it needs cleaning?

I will test the tap water tonight hopefully, but from my recollection my ocean water when tested has always come up good, aside from lower KH and CA levels which I will buffer once in the tank.

I'm just wondering if it might be worth going chemical? I've had this problem for so long and couldn't find the cause. I've been down the path of the phosphate level checks and so forth and had good lights at several points which didn't seem to do much. I'm thinking it's one of those things where unless I nuke it all entirely it just grows from wherever its still surviving?

[Fluff]

Having your lfs test the water you are buying is fine but you really need to test for phosphates in your tank as well. Also, keep in mind that phosphates and nitrates, even though you are having none show on your test, there are some still in the system. Only the cyano and algaes you have are removing these amounts for you. Doing extra water changes will help with starving the cyano. You could try the chemical treatments. These are normally only temporary fixes. If you don't adjust what is causing the problem, the cyano will regroup and come back over time. Also, drop back to feeding once every other day. What are you feeding? Lots of prepared fish foods are full of phosphates as well.

[Fluff]

I'm curious as to why you are supplimenting? If the lfs water is lacking, have you considered just using a good salt mix and mixing your own?

[flanque]

The food is just myias shrimp. It's described as being "nutritious" which to me when I read it meant its got additives.. undoubtably one of my problems. What's a good food to feed the fish? It seems as though all of these prepared foods have "nutrients" added.

I supliment for KH and CA... these I have always found to be a little underscore.. salt mixes don't have these at optimal levels right? Seems as though I would still have to buffer that?

[flanque]

I do have salt mix at home I purchased over a year ago to give it a try, but I was getting all different stories about using it and then not using it.

I would have thought it would be the best since it would have the trace elements to help out the tank?

[Fluff]

Well, I won't get into the great salt debate but I mix my own saltwater and have never had to supplement. I was just throwing it out there for you. I do think it's better to mix your own and yes, a good salt mix will have all the trace elements in it for you.
Mysid is fine though I'm sure your fish would prefer a variety. There are lots of marine frozen foods. When feeding your mysid(or other frozen foods), thaw it in some tank water and drain it before feeding it out. That may help some. The water you drain off is full of phosphates.

[flanque]

Yeah I used to drain my fish food first and then got lazy. I will have to start doing it again, starting tonight.

I might also take onboard your suggestion for salt mix. Are there any best-practice tips to keep in mind when mixing?

[Fluff]

Just be sure to mix it about 24hrs ahead of time. Add a heater and powerhead to your mixing vessel. This will make sure the salt is good and desolved and the water is well aerated, as well as bringing it up to temps and ready for your tank.

[flanque]

Okay pretty much what I thought. I tried this once and then didn't have the confidence to use it, but I think I will start trying this. I have a spare heater so that's no problem and a power head I will have to see if I can pinch one from a mate or something. I have 2 x 1500L/hr ones but they're in the tank.

So you recon the CA and KH levels should be fine on the mix?

What if the mix is cloudy after 24 hours of preparation?

[Fluff]

Yes, a good salt mix should take care of the KH and CA levels. If the salt mix is cloudy after 24hrs then it might be old or have drawn moisture and needs replaced.

[flanque]

Okay well I measured the phosphates and they are at 0.25. This is what they have "always" been at. I have even put in a double dose of the phosphate absorber and it still stays there.

Any thoughts? I have started to defrost my food now and then drain it into a net over the sink again, will pay very close attention to the KH levels and will do weekly water changes, maybe even bi-weekly ones.

I am going to replace my aquarium glass since it has a fracture in it, so would this be an ideal time to do something tricky to help eliminate the problem?