Why drill?

[Reese]

I'm in the process of starting a new setup. I'm still unsure (due to space requirements) what size the main tank will be. At the smallest it will be a 75 and if my wife can be swayed it could be up to a 125.

What is the advantage to drilling a return as opposed to a hang on back with siphon? Is there a size cutoff where you would want to do this and where you would add two drains?

Thanks.

[runway1]

I'm doing the same with a 120 gallon. Main advantage is removing the clutter from inside the tank. I would also add holes for a closed loop circulation system. Again, it removes stuff, in this case PH's, from inside the tank. Also, a closed loop will allow your sump/fuge to flow more slowly and gently while your primary flow can supply 10x-15x turnover and really whip it up. You don't want too heavy of a flow through a fuge

With larger tanks, some folks like the drains in the middle. Myself, I prefer corner drains for easier access for maintainance but that's just my preference.

What kind of tank are you setting up? Reef, FOWLR?? That will determine your flow needs and whether you should lean toward a closed loop. HTH, good luck!

[dskidmore]

An overflow box based on a siphon is more likely to fail than a drilled overflow. If the siphon breaks for any reason, you can end up with the volume of your sump out on the floor, and a burnt out sump pump. Drilled overflows have an appearance advantage over hang-on. Drilled overflows can handle a slightly larger water flow than a siphon overflow with the same pipe diameter. With the use of a standpipe, drilled overflows can also be quiteter.

[Reese]

My goal was a 100 gallon FOWLR with 29 gallon sump/refug. with an overrated skimmer. But I'm having a problem getting a reasonably priced 100 gallon. It's a wall space issue. A 125 gal. @ 72" is just too long. A 5' 100 gallon would be perfect. But I'll probably just end up with a 90 (4' wide) which while it will limit me is probably more financially reasonable right now anyway.

I have a cabinet/furniture shop so I'm able to make my own cabinet and hood. I'll be able to save on my lighting by doing it myself and buying the ballasts/bulbs through hellolights.com (great prices IMO). I'm building my fuge right now (I'll post designs for your feedback later). I'm also transferring about 35 lbs. of LR that have in my current 29 gallon setup. So my main expenses are going to be the main tank, a good skimmer, additional LR, pumps, etc.

Any advice is appreciated. I'll post my designs later so you wonderful people can me your feedback.

Thanks...

[runway1]

With a FOWLR tank you won't need more than 10x flow. A fuge won't be necessary either unless you're thinking you may change your system and add corals. A fuge IMO adds no benefit to a FOWLR tank.

Given that, your circulation will be far more simple too. a single 1000/1200 gph pump for a return and you're all set. You can have twin returns in the corners for decent flow and your fish will love it.

Keep in miind, if you want to add corals later, you may regret not having more holes plumbed for higher flow rates.

[Reese]

There is a chance of adding corals down the road. But I'm in no hurry to do that so that may not happen until I'm in a bigger house with a bigger tank. Wouldn't a refugium with macroalgae help with nitrates/oxygen? Do you think I I'm just better off keeping the current wet/dry (rated for up to 75 gallon) and just buying a 75 gallon tank and adding more LR and sand?

[Phyl]

My husband and I were just laughing at ourselves last night. We remenisced to the day we were considering out tank. "The" thing that put it over the edge for us was that we wanted it up against the wall. That sealed the deal for us, made perfect sense and we went with it.

In retrospect I wouldn't ever purchase a tank EVER that wasn't already RR. It just makes sense. You inevitably want to feed a sump (for inumerous reasons) and when you do that RR is the ONLY way to go, if you have the option up front.

Our 65 was free. It is not RR and a terrible PIA and worry. I'd much rather not have to worry about the perfect conditions failing and water on my floor.

Closed loop is great too, but that's one of those things that nobody would be able to talk you into until after you'd been there and done that!

Good luck with the tank!

[robertfah]

I'm in the same situation as you are. I've bought a 155 gallon, bow-front tank from my neighbor for only $1,300. And that includes the tank, stand, wet/dry/ red sea berlin skimmer, mag 18b pump and about $400 worth of fake coral. We have since added a 72" Orbit Power Compact light to it and the tank is amazing. However, we have 2 overflow boxes (1 in each corner) and while they've been very reliable, I'm wondering about drilling.

We do plan to move the tank in the next 6 months, so I could take it to my LFS and have it drilled, but that takes alot of time.

Beside the 'space' reason, does anyone see the reason NOT to build a reef tank with the overflow boxes?

[spinman]

Can an up and running tank with livestock be drilled out and retrofitted without killing everything? I would LOVE to ditch the clunky plastic overflow box and those horrible unnatural looking PHs.

This is yet another one of those things that I wish I knew before jumping into this hobby. Bless my friend who steered me into this hobby, but his advice was as outdated as the VCR!!.

Spin

[Phyl]

If you've already got a RR tank why would you WANT to use an overflow box? If you're looking for more flow the best thing to do is to go Closed Loop on it (you can actually drill it yourself, fairly easily). You don't want additional throughput through the sump as it would make your skimmer, fuge, etc less effective.

Overflows are purely annoying, unless you have IDEAL conditions it is also prone to overflowing or being obnoxiously loud.

[spinman]

Err...what is "RR"?

[Phyl]

Generally the bottom can't be drilled as it would be tempered. that would leave you with in the upper portion of the tank for an "overflow". I see you're in NJ. In April one of the guys from NJRC is going to be modifying a tank to create an integrated overflow system for it. The meeting is going to be in North Jersey, but people generally carpool to the meetings. You could drill holes where ever on the back to do a closed loop though.

RR is ReefReady (drilled with an overflow/baffle system).

[robertfah]

Excuse the ignorance, but what is RR?

[spinman]

My tank straddles 2 rooms so the sides have a clear unimpeded view. The tank ends would be where the drilling would need to be. Is that workable?

I'm trying to visualize how these RR tanks work. At the drilled outlet, does the water enter the sump via siphon action or gravity? If gravity, how does one prevent things like fish from getting sucked into the drilled outlet.

Spin

[dskidmore]

Originally Posted by robertfah

Beside the 'space' reason, does anyone see the reason NOT to build a reef tank with the overflow boxes?

If you're drilling an existing tank, there is some risk cracking the glass. The chances are low if you have it done by a professional or get the proper setup to do it yourself. (Don't try to drill tempered glass yourself.) However, very few places will guarrentee that they won't crack the tank while trying to drill it.

If you're ordering a new tank, cost is the only reason to go with an overflow box instead of a reef ready aquarium.

And no, you can't drill a tank while it's running. You have to find temporary housing (rubbermaid works wonders) for your critters while you take the tank down for drilling. DIY drilling involves antifreze, grit, and other things you really want to rinse off well away from your livestock.

[Reese]

Thanks for all of the feedback.

Well I decided that rather than get too elaborate right now and since I still haven't been at this for a year yet, I'm going to simply upgrade the main tank from a 29 gallon FOWLR to a 75 gal. FOWLR. Yeah, my wife won but trust me my next setup will be a 300 gallon reef...

[dskidmore]

Good luck!

And to think, I used to believe no-one needed more than 55 gallons.