Another CO2 question

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NigelK8485

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I've sent a few emails out to some welding companies asking about 10-15 lbs CO2 cylinders so hopefully one of them will respond back by Tuesday.

I'm getting a list of things together that I'll need to get and what brands you'd recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/Basic-AQUATEK-Regulator-TOUCH-SOLENOID/dp/B0041YLM7G/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i

I was looking at this, I'd get the little package and buy the co2 tubing and the fluval ceramic diffuser.

I bought a digital pH checker....just because I thought it was cool.

Not sure what drop checker to look at or timer.

Anything else to add and any better recommendations than those listed?


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Hi.
Any of the basic drop testers are fine and are a must. Trying to calculate Co2 saturation is too complicated.
As for a timer, I just use a basic domestic plug in timer, the sort you would use for turning your room lamp on and off when away from home.
If you start injecting Co2 with fish in the tank then start with a slow bubble count, bearing in mind that the drop tester takes a few hours to respond and give a true reading. I used to look at the bubble counter colour just before the Co2 was due to switch off. Small increases of bubble count can be made ready for the following day. No one can tell you the exact count rate as it depends on many factors - tank capacity, water movement, amount and type of plants etc. it's trial and error but better to start slow and err on the side of caution then gradually day by day increase the rate to the level you require.
Balancing the needs of the plants with the safety of your fish can be tricky but the resulting plant growth and health is very rewarding.


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Thanks. I am more so looking for like a checklist of things needed and seeing what those people running CO2 would recommend.


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I run all of this..
Aquatek mini and premium with supplied bc's/check valve
Aquatek co2 tubing
Fluval ceramic diffuser
Fluval dc
Cheap ebay glass dc with 4dk and ph regent
Diy inline diffuser (best)
5# amazon co2 tank
3 20oz. Paintball tanks (one always fueling mini reg., 2 as backup for when 5# needs fill)
Paintball tank adapter for 20oz. Tanks to work with premium reg. When 5# needs fill
Beer

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I run all of this..
Aquatek mini and premium with supplied bc's/check valve
Aquatek co2 tubing
Fluval ceramic diffuser
Fluval dc
Cheap ebay glass dc with 4dk and ph regent
Diy inline diffuser (best)
5# amazon co2 tank
3 20oz. Paintball tanks (one always fueling mini reg., 2 as backup for when 5# needs fill)
Paintball tank adapter for 20oz. Tanks to work with premium reg. When 5# needs fill
Beer

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Okay, Aquatek is the regulator I was looking at, so good there. What is "Fluval DC", and the inline diffuser?

Also, if I'm running two canisters and UV will it have any impact on the CO2?


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Fluval DC is a drop checker (brand Fluval) . It usually is sold with the CO2 indicated. fluid.


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Fluval DC is a drop checker (brand Fluval) . It usually is sold with the CO2 indicated. fluid.


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Oh my god so many little parts. Thank you, I'll add that to my list.


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There are a few components but once you have all $300 of crap sitting on a table it will make more sense;) def. Worth it.. makes my plants cry tears of joy.. literally..

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There are a few components but once you have all $300 of crap sitting on a table it will make more sense;) def. Worth it.. makes my plants cry tears of joy.. literally..

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If my plants cry I'm going to tell them to man up.

Is there any place particular I should put the diffuser or whatever it's called? I've read some people say right next to the intake, some say by the output of the filter, and some put it away from both of them.


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I run 3 separate setups, all work fine.. not sure if I'm being inefficient, i don't really care either way..
A- inline diy diffuser on the 30 gal.
B- fluval ceramic diffuser under intake of 300gph cannister, rarely see bubbles from the spray bar and diffusion is ladi-dah according to dc (drop checker) 20 gal tank
C-co2 tubing sending 2 bubbles a second into the intake of an ac 20 where the impellar go choppy choppy and I don't see bubbles there either. DC registers proper diffusion. 5.5 gal tank.
In a large tank I would have to suggest a inline diffuser 123%.

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I run 3 separate setups, all work fine.. not sure if I'm being inefficient, i don't really care either way..
A- inline diy diffuser on the 30 gal.
B- fluval ceramic diffuser under intake of 300gph cannister, rarely see bubbles from the spray bar and diffusion is ladi-dah according to dc (drop checker) 20 gal tank
C-co2 tubing sending 2 bubbles a second into the intake of an ac 20 where the impellar go choppy choppy and I don't see bubbles there either. DC registers proper diffusion. 5.5 gal tank.
In a large tank I would have to suggest a inline diffuser 123%.

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Wahhhh another piece. If I run an inline diffuser I'd probably go off my Filstar rather than my FX5, the problem is I have my UV sterilizer running off my Filstar. If I did the CO2 on the intake tube the UV wouldn't cause any weird adverse reactions, correct?


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I don't know there man.. may open up a portal to another dimension?? Here's what you're going to do.. hook an inline up to the outflow of the slower if the 2 cans. If uv is in play place it after the uv. In doing this you may slow.flow a bit more. Dedicate the slower of the 2 cans for biomedia. Faster for mechanical filtration. May need to alter intakes and out takes to maximize useful flow throughout the tank. I almost forgot how important proper flow is in any tank..let alone a big tank. Powerheads make a nice cheap fix for dead spots.

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I run my Co2 through a ceramic bar positioned at the bottom of the tank about 6" below my canister filter inlet. Most tiny bubbles are sucked into the canister and absorbed into the water before exiting. Any bubbles, and they are very small, not sucked into the filter are absorbed before they reach the surface.
Top tip. Use a strong narrow beam flash lamp to check bubble patterns and direction, they can be hard to see under normal aquarium lighting, especially as it's normally at the back where lighting is not so strong.
My preference was to use the power of the canister filter but not to have the Co2 directly connected to it, just kept it simple.


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I run my Co2 through a ceramic bar positioned at the bottom of the tank about 6" below my canister filter inlet. Most tiny bubbles are sucked into the canister and absorbed into the water before exiting. Any bubbles, and they are very small, not sucked into the filter are absorbed before they reach the surface.
Top tip. Use a strong narrow beam flash lamp to check bubble patterns and direction, they can be hard to see under normal aquarium lighting, especially as it's normally at the back where lighting is not so strong.
My preference was to use the power of the canister filter but not to have the Co2 directly connected to it, just kept it simple.


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I'm thinking going the powerhead route.

The flow on my Filstar is pretty weak due to me running it through a UV sterilizer and I'm at the perfect rate for sterilization and don't want to mess with that any.

My FX5 is using a spraybar which creates a lot of surface agitation, if the CO2 were dissolved in the water and went through the spraybar where half the holes are pointed at the surface would I just be wasting a lot of the CO2 by it being expelled at the surface?


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I'm thinking going the powerhead route.

The flow on my Filstar is pretty weak due to me running it through a UV sterilizer and I'm at the perfect rate for sterilization and don't want to mess with that any.

My FX5 is using a spraybar which creates a lot of surface agitation, if the CO2 were dissolved in the water and went through the spraybar where half the holes are pointed at the surface would I just be wasting a lot of the CO2 by it being expelled at the surface?


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Can you point the spray bar in a more downward direction? Or lower the spray bar so that less agitation occurs.
For several months I ran CO2 through a ceramic diffuser under an HOB intake. Currently the ceramic diffusers is near the bottom in the path of one of the HOB filters (which pushes it downward). My filters create movement at the surface but not a lot of agitation.
Just curious about the use of the UV in an established tank. Is this for algae or bacterial bloom control?


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Think uv is primarily for combating green water, worked for me anyways. Apparently certain higher end models can/will sterilize certain diseases and parasites??

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I use mine for sterilization, just as an added measure. It's just a bonus that it makes the water incredibly clear.

Yeah, I could try to angle it so it points more downward. Also, my UV is huge so the flow for me to obtain level 2 sterilization still allows my filter to put out 360 gph still, timed and tested. I can arrange the flow from it to run directly into the circulating flow from the spraybar and prevent it'd sweep directly through my plants.

Hopefully I'm explaining that alright. I'm thinking I'm just going to order in the essentials and begin piecing it together and figuring this out.


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Nigel - It makes sense. I just thought of UV as something you used to resolve a situation rather than run it 24/7.
I just remembered, when I allowed CO2 bubbles into the HOB that has only mechanical filtration, the floss would try to heave out of the filter after a while. Definitely a sign that I was not cleaning it enough.


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When I was researching it there seemed to be a lot of debate on whether or not UV should be used 24/7. I didn't really find any disadvantages that I was too concerned with or believed in and I haven't noticed any adverse effects since.

I'll measure the hoses for my Filstar tomorrow and probably go with the Aqua inline CO2 diffuser if I can find the right fit rather than building my own. http://www.amazon.com/U-P-Aqua-Inline-Atomizer-System/dp/B006HKMO06 something like this.


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I run it for a few days after wc, sometimes I forget and it's on 24/7... just wasting bulb life and electricity is all..

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