Well I have to comment: I hope that you are doing this for experience and enjoyment and have planned ahead what you are going to do with anywhere from 15-100 surviving fry...hmmm? I have to point out that you don't "make money" with any but the rarest fish . An even that is dinner out amount over upkeep.
That said....
Small Warning Factoid
FYI:
Bettas are funny and finicky fish. and they are not going to breed just because they are the same species. That is a fact with many non-seasonal animal's behavior.
Be prepared for the disappointment of one fish or the other finding your partner selection unsuitable. And be ready to separate them and give up if hostility continues after 3 attempts. My daughter has a perfect BF half moon plakat that hates ALL blue fish...she is blue. To breed her to a non blue fish is like to just not bother at all (the color will be muddy). Sometimes a weaker female will show her displeasure by destroying the nest or eating as many eggs as she can before you remove her. And if she refuses to much your male will become enraged and may even kill her (not sexual aggression like a mammal, but the fact that she is an known aggressive in his nesting territory and has to GO. But because the confines..can't go. He reads that as WONT go. Follow it? He will also try to remove her as soon as he has finished breeding..same reasons.)
That said..READY?
Female must show submissive behavior or the whole thing will fail.
She should be tipped head down, with VERY prominent tiger stripes showing. She shouldn't be flaring back at all when you allow her into his space.
If she is especially fearful and has stripes running head to tail along her body ("fear stripe") you may want to provide her some kind of cover before releasing her ..so that she can gain confidence and act coy. Other wise she will just keep running from him til he decides she has to go.
Just because he built a nest...doesn't mean he built it for her. Nor that he is finished yet. Some like to make a mass that sticks up an inch ^_^.
Another reason against freeing a fearful female...odds are you will destroy the nest trying to catch her
There will be some chasing and small fin nicking. Most labyrinths are pretty rough breeders. But...Any body striking or true biting at head and gills requires separation. It is better to condition them for three to four weeks. And good food.Your male need to be well feed because you cannot feed him safely after he is doing fry care. You should be ready to feed your fry as soon as they are free-swimming. Do you have fry food in culture or ready RIGHT NOW?
if you feel you must feed your male in the breeding tank and with the nest...be sure NOT to use BBS! It known to encourage egg eating in your male bettas.
Also be sure to remove him by week 2 if you wish a large spawn. If you just breeding unknown color gene pet fish then go for the the strongest and leave him in longer. He MUSt be gone after the last part of the batch is free swimming.
And that's should be enough..the rest is up to you. Gouramy specie fry are some of the hardest to keep alive into a viable age. Combined with other "small" fry problems is the fact they need to develop the labyrinth organ. And most fade those weeks. You really should have done better research before deciding to breed even a rhinoceros beetle! Much less animals.....
:?
Now you have something to digest and regurgitate for your use
:::this factoid provided in part by ANK-Sempiternal Splendens Bettas::::
Username iseanDream