Bettas need hlp choosing types for breeding nice fish
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Samzter
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have a few articles on different fish and how to breed them. Would you like some?
Samzter
Aquarium Advice Addict
That's okay . I'll post them now! 
BETTA BREEDING
Okay here's the deal with bettas, they can be deadly when breeding!
For breeding bettas here's what I would do:
Find a male and female fighters and supplement their diet with freeze dried and live foods for a few weeks. Get a 10 gallon tank And put a divider in it. Let them see each other. I used to use margarine lids to support the bubble nests. Heavily plant both sides of the tank, and hopefully the male will start to build the bubble nest. When all is ready remove the divider and let the begin to get to know each other . When the male is comfortable with the female he may invite her under is bubble nest. Be warned that they will fight and sometimes it can be fatal. He will begin to wrap himself around the female and ' quiver' . She will release the female and she will, fall to the bottom for a bit, then she'll go back for more. This can happen about 7 times depending on how old the pair are. He will collect the eggs and put them in the bubble nest. This is why you don't want any substrate as it will make it easier for the male to collect the eggs. After spawning the male will chase the female off and he will be protective of the nest. At this stage you should remove the female. Leave the male until the fry are free swimming. You will need an additional 2-3 gallon jars for the male fry and the females can stay in a 10-20 gallon tank. Don't keep the parents in the same tank as the fry. These fish can proberly lay from 50-400 eggs per spawn.
BETTA BREEDING Okay here's the deal with bettas, they can be deadly when breeding!
For breeding bettas here's what I would do:
Find a male and female fighters and supplement their diet with freeze dried and live foods for a few weeks. Get a 10 gallon tank And put a divider in it. Let them see each other. I used to use margarine lids to support the bubble nests. Heavily plant both sides of the tank, and hopefully the male will start to build the bubble nest. When all is ready remove the divider and let the begin to get to know each other . When the male is comfortable with the female he may invite her under is bubble nest. Be warned that they will fight and sometimes it can be fatal. He will begin to wrap himself around the female and ' quiver' . She will release the female and she will, fall to the bottom for a bit, then she'll go back for more. This can happen about 7 times depending on how old the pair are. He will collect the eggs and put them in the bubble nest. This is why you don't want any substrate as it will make it easier for the male to collect the eggs. After spawning the male will chase the female off and he will be protective of the nest. At this stage you should remove the female. Leave the male until the fry are free swimming. You will need an additional 2-3 gallon jars for the male fry and the females can stay in a 10-20 gallon tank. Don't keep the parents in the same tank as the fry. These fish can proberly lay from 50-400 eggs per spawn.
Samzter
Aquarium Advice Addict
BREEDING GERMAN BLUE RAMS
German blue rams are suprisingly easy once you have an established pair. GBR grow to about six to seven centimetres. They like to eat bloodworms and flakes, river shrimp and lots more! The cons of these stunning looking fish is that they need pristine water quality. They're colouring is unique with their shimmering blue scales. They can breed as early on as four months but usually from six months +.
SEXING:
The female fish is smaller than the male and have more of a pink underbelly in her ventral region. If you look at the anterior region of the dorsal fin, you can see that her fin rays are less developed. It is also common for females to have a plumper body shape and more rounded edging of the tailfin. The back of the dorsal and anal fins have a more pointy edge in the male ram, and the tail fin is also more sharply edged. The male ram can be recognized on his V-shaped tail fin and the elongated second ray that is present in the dorsal fin.
BREEDING
When its time for breeding, the red patch on the belly of the female will grow bigger and become much brighter than normally. A flat stone will be cleaned or a pit will be dug out by either of the pair. The couple will also start nudging each other and/or twirling, and the male fish can dart away at a high pace or slide against the body of the female fish
During spawning, the female will place small adhesive eggs on the flat stones or in the small pits. The eggs are 0.9-1.5 mm in length (0.035-0.059 inches). A typical batch will consist of 150-300 eggs, but some batches contain no more than 20 eggs while others contain over 500 eggs.
Both the male and the female fish should be allowed to stay with the offspring because this species practise biparental brood care and the parents work together to care for the eggs and guard the territory. A parent will fan fresh water over the eggs to prevent attacks from fungi and bacteria. The parents will also eat unfertile eggs to prevent them from turning into breeding grounds for pathogens.
The eggs will normally hatch within 40 hours if the water is kept in the upper part of the recommended temperature range. It will then take roughly 5 days before the offspring becomes free swimming. The free swimming fry will be kept in a dense school and be cared for by the parents. They will be escorted by their mother or father during foraging.
Don’t lose heart if the first few spawnings are unsuccessful. A lot of things can go wrong and it is common for German blue rams to spawn a few times before they get everything right. They might for instance eat a few batches before they become good parents. Once they have started breeding, you can however expect a new batch once a month or so. Young pairs are known to fight quite a lot and the aquarium must contain plenty of hiding spots to avoid stress and injury.
If your couple continues to eat their offspring even after several spawnings it can be a sight of distress in the aquarium. Try to figure out what stresses your fish and do your best to make the aquarium more relaxing for them.
German blue rams are suprisingly easy once you have an established pair. GBR grow to about six to seven centimetres. They like to eat bloodworms and flakes, river shrimp and lots more! The cons of these stunning looking fish is that they need pristine water quality. They're colouring is unique with their shimmering blue scales. They can breed as early on as four months but usually from six months +.
SEXING:
The female fish is smaller than the male and have more of a pink underbelly in her ventral region. If you look at the anterior region of the dorsal fin, you can see that her fin rays are less developed. It is also common for females to have a plumper body shape and more rounded edging of the tailfin. The back of the dorsal and anal fins have a more pointy edge in the male ram, and the tail fin is also more sharply edged. The male ram can be recognized on his V-shaped tail fin and the elongated second ray that is present in the dorsal fin.
BREEDING
When its time for breeding, the red patch on the belly of the female will grow bigger and become much brighter than normally. A flat stone will be cleaned or a pit will be dug out by either of the pair. The couple will also start nudging each other and/or twirling, and the male fish can dart away at a high pace or slide against the body of the female fish
During spawning, the female will place small adhesive eggs on the flat stones or in the small pits. The eggs are 0.9-1.5 mm in length (0.035-0.059 inches). A typical batch will consist of 150-300 eggs, but some batches contain no more than 20 eggs while others contain over 500 eggs.
Both the male and the female fish should be allowed to stay with the offspring because this species practise biparental brood care and the parents work together to care for the eggs and guard the territory. A parent will fan fresh water over the eggs to prevent attacks from fungi and bacteria. The parents will also eat unfertile eggs to prevent them from turning into breeding grounds for pathogens.
The eggs will normally hatch within 40 hours if the water is kept in the upper part of the recommended temperature range. It will then take roughly 5 days before the offspring becomes free swimming. The free swimming fry will be kept in a dense school and be cared for by the parents. They will be escorted by their mother or father during foraging.
Don’t lose heart if the first few spawnings are unsuccessful. A lot of things can go wrong and it is common for German blue rams to spawn a few times before they get everything right. They might for instance eat a few batches before they become good parents. Once they have started breeding, you can however expect a new batch once a month or so. Young pairs are known to fight quite a lot and the aquarium must contain plenty of hiding spots to avoid stress and injury.
If your couple continues to eat their offspring even after several spawnings it can be a sight of distress in the aquarium. Try to figure out what stresses your fish and do your best to make the aquarium more relaxing for them.
Samzter
Aquarium Advice Addict
BREEDING DWARF GOURAMI
Scientific name: Colisa lalia
Common name: Dwarf gourami
Max. size: 8.8 cm / 3.5 inches
pH range: 6.0 – 8.0
dH range: 5 - 19
Temperature range: 25 – 28°C / 77 – 82.5°F
Dwarf gouramis are easy to breed, but first, look out for the signs that a male and female are ready to breed. The female would be getting plumper and plumper, and the male s colouring will becoming more vivid and bright.
Once you notice a suitable pair that may be reaching breeding condition, if it’s possible, separate them in two aquariums for about a fortnight, while allowing them to see each other through their tank walls. Feed them a diet of high quality flake food, freeze dried bloodworms, and live foods. Of course, make sure both their aquariums are heavily planted so that they don’t feel stressed out. The tank with the male should have floating plants or you can use a margarine lid and poke a hole through the middle and attach string. From there hang it over the side and place the lid on, this will secure the the top of the bubble nest. (floating ferns or salvinia plants are a great choice.) If the male is in breeding mode , he will start constructing a bubble nest and keep adding to it daily, by blowing hundreds of bubbles.
The bubble nests of dwarf gouramis are thick and incorporate bits and pieces of plants. The male will keep blowing bubbles into the nest until it even rises up above the water level, and measures nearly an inch in height.
When the female becomes very plump (due to being filled with eggs), it’s time to breed them. Reduce the water level in the male’s tank to about 10 cm height, and slowly let in the female. The pair will start spawning. During this the male will wrap himself around her and "quiver" she will then release eggs and he will fertilise them. This can happen 6-7 times.After spawning is over, which takes about a few hours, remove the female from the tank and place her back in her own tank (not the community tank). This gives her a chance to recuperate for a few days. Meanwhile, the male will take care of the eggs and young, after they spawn.
When the fry become free swimming, which typically takes a few days, they will leave the nest, which by this time will be disintegrating. Remove the male at this point, and feed the fry with infusoria (infusoria cultures can be purchased from aquarium shops). After a week or so, you can start the fry on brine shrimp and minute amounts of mashed hard boiled egg yolk.
Scientific name: Colisa lalia
Common name: Dwarf gourami
Max. size: 8.8 cm / 3.5 inches
pH range: 6.0 – 8.0
dH range: 5 - 19
Temperature range: 25 – 28°C / 77 – 82.5°F
Dwarf gouramis are easy to breed, but first, look out for the signs that a male and female are ready to breed. The female would be getting plumper and plumper, and the male s colouring will becoming more vivid and bright.
Once you notice a suitable pair that may be reaching breeding condition, if it’s possible, separate them in two aquariums for about a fortnight, while allowing them to see each other through their tank walls. Feed them a diet of high quality flake food, freeze dried bloodworms, and live foods. Of course, make sure both their aquariums are heavily planted so that they don’t feel stressed out. The tank with the male should have floating plants or you can use a margarine lid and poke a hole through the middle and attach string. From there hang it over the side and place the lid on, this will secure the the top of the bubble nest. (floating ferns or salvinia plants are a great choice.) If the male is in breeding mode , he will start constructing a bubble nest and keep adding to it daily, by blowing hundreds of bubbles.
The bubble nests of dwarf gouramis are thick and incorporate bits and pieces of plants. The male will keep blowing bubbles into the nest until it even rises up above the water level, and measures nearly an inch in height.
When the female becomes very plump (due to being filled with eggs), it’s time to breed them. Reduce the water level in the male’s tank to about 10 cm height, and slowly let in the female. The pair will start spawning. During this the male will wrap himself around her and "quiver" she will then release eggs and he will fertilise them. This can happen 6-7 times.After spawning is over, which takes about a few hours, remove the female from the tank and place her back in her own tank (not the community tank). This gives her a chance to recuperate for a few days. Meanwhile, the male will take care of the eggs and young, after they spawn.
When the fry become free swimming, which typically takes a few days, they will leave the nest, which by this time will be disintegrating. Remove the male at this point, and feed the fry with infusoria (infusoria cultures can be purchased from aquarium shops). After a week or so, you can start the fry on brine shrimp and minute amounts of mashed hard boiled egg yolk.
Samzter
Aquarium Advice Addict
BREEDING PANDA CORIES.
Size: 5-6 cm
Number: 6
I feel the best way to increase chances of spawning would be buying no less than 6 specimens as juveniles and letting them grow together. Typically you need more males than females for a better success rate.
A 10 gallon aquarium is sufficiently large enough for spawning to take place . In my opinion a bare bottom tank would be the best way for spawning but the aquarium should contain fake , broad-leafed plants and a clay flower pot as cover for resting. I would sex them when they are old enough and put a female in with 2-3 males.
The pH should be around neutral, but Corydoras panda tolerates everything from pH 6.0 to 8.0. The temperature should be in the upper part of its normal range (which is 20 – 25°C). A water temperature of 24-25°C is therefore recommended. By dropping the temp from about 25c to 23c ought to induce spawning.
Feed them meaty diets which consist of high quality pellets, frozen bloodworms, black worms and peas, cucumber. This will give them the energy and nutrition they need for breeding.
During spawning the male will follow the female around the tank and circle her. The eggs are about 1.5 mm in size and will usually be laid on broad leafed plants or glass.
Pandas produce small batches and their first may only contain 20 eggs.
If you choose to raise the fry away from parents which is probably the best idea if you want a high success rate use methylene blue to prevent fungi
After 4-5 days the eggs will hatch, if the water temp is at 25c , at this point the fry are no bigger than 6mm and will seek shelter for the first few weeks.
After 4 weeks the fry are usually at 1cm and at 8 2cm .
When the fry hatch, they will feed from their yolk sac for another 48 hours. Feeding is therefore unnecessary during the first two days. Microworms is a good first food for Corydoras panda fry. As they grow larger, you can start giving them newly hatched brine shrimp and then gradually increase the size of the brine shrimps.
Size: 5-6 cm
Number: 6
I feel the best way to increase chances of spawning would be buying no less than 6 specimens as juveniles and letting them grow together. Typically you need more males than females for a better success rate.
A 10 gallon aquarium is sufficiently large enough for spawning to take place . In my opinion a bare bottom tank would be the best way for spawning but the aquarium should contain fake , broad-leafed plants and a clay flower pot as cover for resting. I would sex them when they are old enough and put a female in with 2-3 males.
The pH should be around neutral, but Corydoras panda tolerates everything from pH 6.0 to 8.0. The temperature should be in the upper part of its normal range (which is 20 – 25°C). A water temperature of 24-25°C is therefore recommended. By dropping the temp from about 25c to 23c ought to induce spawning.
Feed them meaty diets which consist of high quality pellets, frozen bloodworms, black worms and peas, cucumber. This will give them the energy and nutrition they need for breeding.
During spawning the male will follow the female around the tank and circle her. The eggs are about 1.5 mm in size and will usually be laid on broad leafed plants or glass.
Pandas produce small batches and their first may only contain 20 eggs.
If you choose to raise the fry away from parents which is probably the best idea if you want a high success rate use methylene blue to prevent fungi
After 4-5 days the eggs will hatch, if the water temp is at 25c , at this point the fry are no bigger than 6mm and will seek shelter for the first few weeks.
After 4 weeks the fry are usually at 1cm and at 8 2cm .
When the fry hatch, they will feed from their yolk sac for another 48 hours. Feeding is therefore unnecessary during the first two days. Microworms is a good first food for Corydoras panda fry. As they grow larger, you can start giving them newly hatched brine shrimp and then gradually increase the size of the brine shrimps.
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