Big tank lighting

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kaaikop

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Mar 9, 2005
Messages
223
Location
Val-David, QC
Hello to all! 8)

I am in the planning stage of my 150g tank. It was delivered with 1 fluo. ramp (2 x 30W) the store said I should add
another ramp if I want to plant. Yeah well from what I read here, this would still be half adequate lighting
based on the 2 wpg rule... if I add another ramp, there is no more space on top of that tank...
so that leaves me to metal halide? that is costly and more complex to install... I like simple things :)
Hey I knew what I was getting into here ($$$) if I need MH well so be it.
Any advise (this is my first big tank, and I want to do it right).

Thanks!
 
www.ahsupply.com is your friend. You can fit retro fit kits there, or even buy the cf lighting. IF the fixture is just like 48 inches long, you SHOULD be able to get a 4x 55 watt kit, or possibly a 6x 55 watt kit. It just depends on your dimension of your hood. Or, you could opt for the canopy they build, and buy the lights for it. Check it out, its a great lighting site, and won't cost you a fortune like the MH bulbs/fixtures.
HTH
-Stewie
 
Okay, thanks to a great forum here :wink: I found out about
Coralife Aqualight... If I put 2 x 36" units, that would give me 384W
if I calculate correct, and I still have space for my cheapo unit supplied
with the tank (that's another 60W). I think this should be enough right?
Simple enough to install too!
 
I built my own canopy and added a bright light kit from AHSupply. I now have 330W with 6,500K. I'm quite happy with the result.

My strong advice is to get your pressurized CO2 up and running before you add all that light. Adding that much lighting without CO2 will only grow algae. That's a fact! You're also going to have to be sure your water has the proper buffering capacity to avoid a pH crash. A good Nitrate, Phosphate and KH test kit is essential to understanding the chemistry of your planted tank.

HTH
 
Oh geez, I'm running out of Kudos... :mrgreen: HELP!!!

Thanks for the advice! I do have a complete test kit. and I did order lighting from
Captivereefs.com (Coralife). Now I'm evaluating CO2... Man this part scares me!
Silly question but... has there ever been explosions with pressurized bottles? is
there any danger? and that is going to be another unexpected $$$ that I had not
planned in this adventure! Hey, I'm still smiling :p
 
kaaikop said:
Okay, thanks to a great forum here :wink: I found out about
Coralife Aqualight... If I put 2 x 36" units, that would give me 384W
if I calculate correct, and I still have space for my cheapo unit supplied
with the tank (that's another 60W). I think this should be enough right?
Simple enough to install too!

I've got a 125G with the exact same lighting setup you're considering (4x96w CF and the two original 30w NO) and it is perfect for everything I've tried to grow. And like BrianNY said, you'll definitely want CO2 running with that much lighting - I tried it for several months without CO2 and 444 watts of light and I ended up with some wicked algae I just couldn't beat. CO2 is the only solution for a tank with that much light.
 
Travis,

I've looked at your pictures, you ARE doing something (everything) right for sure!
This is the best looking tank I have seen...
What kind of CO2 setup do you have?

Thanks!
 
Travis, sorry for all the questions, but what "size" of CO2 bottle do you use, and
how long does that last? I have looked at some complete systems on the web,
with a pH meter, that tells the system when to start or stop the CO2. That sounds
like the best for me, I don't want to fuss around with these things, sometimes I
am gone for a whole week travelling. And I would like that system to fit under the
cabinet so it is not visible...

And again, noboby seems to want to answer that one: is this dangerous? 8O
has there ever been explosions? 8O I know it might sound silly, I do have
at home several fire extinguishers, and they don't explode by themselves! :oops:
 
The danger factor is only if the cannister falls and damages the regulator. I have my 10 gallon strapped to the inside of the cabinet.

I also purchased my system from aquatic-store. The same one as Travis. You can expect the whole set-up to run about $400 US. This includes a filled CO2 cannister which is best rented from a welding shop. Then you only pay for the refill of CO2. It's $11.00 for 10 gallons in NY. 10 gallons should last around 6 months in a 150.

HTH
 
I agree - a 10 lb. cylinder is the way to go. I made the mistake of only getting a 5 lb. cylinder and I have to refill the thing about every three months because it takes quite a bit of CO2 for a 125G. I'm also using it to run a 30G so I shouldn't really be complaining :oops:

And CO2 is perfectly safe as long as you're not throwing the bottle around the house :)
 
kaaikop said:
And again, noboby seems to want to answer that one: is this dangerous? 8O
has there ever been explosions? 8O I know it might sound silly, I do have
at home several fire extinguishers, and they don't explode by themselves! :oops:

There are far far greater dangers lurking in your home. In your garage you park a 1-2 ton hunk of steel filled with 20 gallons of combustible and extremely flammable liquid that has a very low flash point. In many homes you have gas water heaters that kill people yearly if not properly maintained. Just the gas lines are fairly dangerous. Bottom line is that CO2 tanks are in every restaurant and bar in America and you never hear of exploding tanks or asphyxiation associated with their use despite the high volume. Simple common sense in handling the tanks and securing them all but eliminates the potential for a large release of CO2. The tank won't explode.

CO2 dissipates very rapidly in air and unless you were in a small well sealed room (or car with the windows up and the A/C or heat on) the levels could never rise to dangerous levels with only 5-10 lbs of liquid CO2 available. Which brings the other issue up. The only way a small CO2 tank is going to effect the CO2 levels in a room dramatically is if the tank were to dump it's contents within a few minutes. That can only happen under two scenarios.

1) The safety valve blew. The safety valve is there to prevent a tank from exploding. The valve is designed to blow and release the pressure in a rapid yet controlled manner before the steel or aluminum tank fails. When the valve blows the noise from the release and subsequent hiss from the rapidly escaping gas would wake everyone in the house and alert them to open windows and doors. However, in order to blow a safety valve the tank would have to have been exposed to heat or overfilled to create the excessive pressure...it is almost a non-issue. The greatest danger of blowing a safety valve is in the ride home from having it filled. Another reason why tank exchanges are much better than refills.

2) If you don't store and support the tank properly and it falls over breaking off the regulator. This, in my opinion, is the biggest potential for a problem with a CO2 tank, but yet so easy to make perfectly safe. Knocking the regulator will cause a faster rate of release than the safety valve blowing and the tank itself would be propelled around the room. Secure the tank upright and this can never happen.

The main point is CO2 is totally safe if common safety is observed. Taking a bath can be more hazardous.
 
Thanks guys for the explanations!

At least the scare part is taken care of. :oops: that makes a lot of sense...
Now for the $ 400.00.... I thought I could get a "complete" kit for about
200-250$. I guess the cylinders are extra... :evil: how much should I expect to
pay for a 10 lbs. cylinder, and for the "refill or exchange" cost, and also, just
to make sure it would fit inside my cabinet, what is the approx. size of a 10 lbs.?

Man, I'm gonna need to get a mortgage here! :lol: :lol:
 
A 10 lb. CO2 tank should fit into your cabinet without a problem. The tank itself can cost anywhere from $40-$100 depending on prices in your area and whether you go with the cheaper steel tank or the more expensive (but lighter) aluminum tank. There's really no difference between the two except for weight and price.
 
:D Thanks to all for taking the time to "educate" me on this rather "obcure"
piece of equipment... After reading a lot on here, I now understand how this
works and what is the purpose of each component of a pressurized system.
The solenoid and pH meter makes a lot of sense, it makes it basically trouble-free!

The only part that I still don't understand is the last stage, how the CO2 is
delivered to the tank. I have seen setups with water pumps, but I somehow was
under the impression that you could connect the CO2 to your Can. filter outlet?
That seems to me like a good idea, no? (although I have not seem anywhere how
it is connected). IMHO, any ugly piece of equipement that can be avoided from
being visible in the tank is the best...
I will try to find more info. before I make a move. :?
 
Yes you can 'inject' the CO2 directly into the outflow of your canister filter using a piece of equipment called a reactor. You can buy one (I use the AB AquaMedic Reactor 1000 - outlined in pic below) or build your own. And like you said, it's nice not having another ugly piece of equipment sitting in your tank.

co2_assembly_04_outline.jpg
 
Excuse my ignorance, but the "reactor" as shown on your picture is connected
"in-line" with your filter outlet (i.e. it has an inlet and outlet)? I just did not know
that... and that other cylindrical piece just before the reactor, is a inline heater, right? that too, I intend to install.

Duh! I think I finally get it! :p Thanks for taking the time with the picture!
that is VERY helpful (I am the "visual" type...) :mrgreen:
 
Almost ready to order my CO2 system, but still a little confused...
I am looking at a "complete" system from www.aquatic-store.com
It is listed under "CO2 COMBO setups" there are some from Milwaukee
and from JBJ... It looks to me like most of these sets are complete, and
does include the pH meter, but some has "2-stage diffusor",
"4-stage diffusor" and "type 1000 reactor".

I think my best bet is the JBJ combo 4 with the 1000 reactor... What do
you think? It does include the pH meter right? so all I would need to get
locally is a filled CO2 cylinder.
 
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