Canister filter info
- Thread starter EBenns
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Setup is fairly simple, just takes a bit to get the input and output hoses where you want them. I would check you have enough room to sit the canister filter where you want (mine is in a cabinet) and run intake/outlet pipes up and into the tank (I had to cut out part of the hood to allow access).
On mine I clean it out every 4 to 6 months depending on when output water flow rate drops. I have an AquaOne 1200 and 2700. The 1200 has really easy to access hose valves (just above the canister) that can be readily turned off so you can detach the canister for cleaning. Noise is fairly good, a quiet hum and the air pump is louder. First start is usually noisy and I may switch it off/on or rock it a few times to get the air clear. Usually it settles down in 5 minutes.
The 2700 has a UV unit by accident (didn't want it but oh well). The outflow is a lot so I have angled the outlet spray bar up a bit to drop some of the force. Also the tank water level is above the outlet spray bar (mainly to reduce noise).
On mine I clean it out every 4 to 6 months depending on when output water flow rate drops. I have an AquaOne 1200 and 2700. The 1200 has really easy to access hose valves (just above the canister) that can be readily turned off so you can detach the canister for cleaning. Noise is fairly good, a quiet hum and the air pump is louder. First start is usually noisy and I may switch it off/on or rock it a few times to get the air clear. Usually it settles down in 5 minutes.
The 2700 has a UV unit by accident (didn't want it but oh well). The outflow is a lot so I have angled the outlet spray bar up a bit to drop some of the force. Also the tank water level is above the outlet spray bar (mainly to reduce noise).
mrvincent
Aquarium Advice Addict
In my case I use Eheim canister filters. They're long to initial setup, has you have to cut hoses to the good length and install equipement, test it, etc.
But once it's cycled, running, you have to clean it once each 3 months and it's easy to clean. I'll say Eheim canister filters are time and cost effective, You can inject CO2 at the entrance, it make a nice reactor and it never airlock do to their impeller technology.
They make 0 noise, they come with spraybar.
But once it's cycled, running, you have to clean it once each 3 months and it's easy to clean. I'll say Eheim canister filters are time and cost effective, You can inject CO2 at the entrance, it make a nice reactor and it never airlock do to their impeller technology.
They make 0 noise, they come with spraybar.
They are a nice brand. I see pre-filters, UV and heaters can all be a part of the filter. Has anyone tried the ones with pre-filters?
mrvincent
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have prefiltration mass, that's white rings where big particles are trapped.
Then you have mid mechanical filtration, after this you have bio step, which is half of the canister,
and you have water polisher (must be changed all 3 months), it's the last mechanical filtration mass, and absorb micro micro particles
and you have carbon pad, but I don't use it.
This is for the most basic Eheim filter.
Do you mean white rings as pre-filtration ? Or there's another unit that plug into the filter ?
Then you have mid mechanical filtration, after this you have bio step, which is half of the canister,
and you have water polisher (must be changed all 3 months), it's the last mechanical filtration mass, and absorb micro micro particles
and you have carbon pad, but I don't use it.
This is for the most basic Eheim filter.
Do you mean white rings as pre-filtration ? Or there's another unit that plug into the filter ?
Both I think. I'm reading the guide for Eheim Professional 3 2080 and it notes:
NEW PRE-FILTER DESIGN
Large pre-filter with separate drip tray for easy intermediate cleanings and an extra long service life and easy regular maintenance. Simply rinse pre-filter pad (blue) and change the fine filter pad (white); the biomedia in the media baskets remains undisturbed.
The website below has a picture:
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/external-filters/professionel
I thought this was a separate unit but looking at the product guide, it seems that you detach the head and can access the pre-filter with more media underneath.It sounds really great but wondering if it makes life any easier. So just one unit there I think.
I have also seen articles where there is a separate pre-filter unit (never seen one for sale) and also wondered how that would work. I found a website I think (below). I think these either attach to the intake pipe or are a separate unit before the main filter. They seem like more work?
Black Beauty Pre Filter
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/accessories/installation_prefilter#description
NEW PRE-FILTER DESIGN
Large pre-filter with separate drip tray for easy intermediate cleanings and an extra long service life and easy regular maintenance. Simply rinse pre-filter pad (blue) and change the fine filter pad (white); the biomedia in the media baskets remains undisturbed.
The website below has a picture:
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/external-filters/professionel
I thought this was a separate unit but looking at the product guide, it seems that you detach the head and can access the pre-filter with more media underneath.It sounds really great but wondering if it makes life any easier. So just one unit there I think.
I have also seen articles where there is a separate pre-filter unit (never seen one for sale) and also wondered how that would work. I found a website I think (below). I think these either attach to the intake pipe or are a separate unit before the main filter. They seem like more work?
Black Beauty Pre Filter
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/accessories/installation_prefilter#description
I've used Fluval canisters since the 80's. They have water shut off with easy hose release, are easy to put together, they are self priming, and have always done a good job for me, obviously or I wouldn't still be using them...lol!
I actually clean my canisters every 4 weeks simply because with canisters detris build up let in them for too long will eventually begin raising nitrate levels in the tank. I have all planted tanks and in one tank some Dwarf Anchor cats that can easily die when nitrates go over 12.5ppm. So by doing a 50% WC weekly and keeping my canisters cleaned every 4 weeks all my tank run at about 10ppm nitrates weekly which is very good. Even my 220g that is heavily stocked and fed heavy handed runs that low.
There are many good brands of canister filters so you'd be pretty safe with most brands. Just don't slack off on cleaning them regularly.
I actually clean my canisters every 4 weeks simply because with canisters detris build up let in them for too long will eventually begin raising nitrate levels in the tank. I have all planted tanks and in one tank some Dwarf Anchor cats that can easily die when nitrates go over 12.5ppm. So by doing a 50% WC weekly and keeping my canisters cleaned every 4 weeks all my tank run at about 10ppm nitrates weekly which is very good. Even my 220g that is heavily stocked and fed heavy handed runs that low.
There are many good brands of canister filters so you'd be pretty safe with most brands. Just don't slack off on cleaning them regularly.
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